617 starter, how does it compare to 603s?
 

The starter on the L seems to have a lot more "zip" if you will when cranking the motor over compared to the starter on my SD. It's been so long since I owned my 123 I do no recall how the starter operated on it.

Anyway, I'm wondering how fast the starter is supposed to crank over the 617? Maybe you guys that have both can comment or an audio clip of a good starter cranking over a cool motor.

If mine is about to crap, I'll install the extra one I have in the garage.

Thanks! :smhair2:

I noticed this as well. I really hope the starter on the SD doesn't blow, it looks like a pita to change.

I've got not 603 experience to compair the zip to......but mine crank fairly quick.

Hattie, I'll tell you. The starter on the 617 is a pain. One the 603 it's a joke it's so easy. It's one of the few repairs that is much easier on a 603 than 617.

Thanks
David

I honestly can't tell if one starter has more zip than the other and I have both types of cars. They both seem to start fairly easy. It doesn't take too many cranks to start either car.

Mine usually starts before it even gets a chance to crank it around a couple times.....but when it has to, it seems to do it without effort and quickly....a couple nights ago it took 5-6 cranks and it took place very quickly...started right up. (it was like 7 deg's out & no heater)

Same here, haven't really had a chance to hear the 617 starter since the engine starts after one tiny lil *whirrr*
:D
Actually when I changed fuel filters on both a 603 and 617 I had to crank both a lot and I didn't notice any real difference between the 2.

Hrm, perhaps I'll pickup a rebuilt one here and install it. Heck, the starter is 20 years old...

You'd be correct. It's an absolute PITA. I did a preemptive strike with the manifolds off and it was simple. I can't imagine doing it from underneath without a proper lift.

But, then again, you already have an easy solution if the starter blows:

















.........ahh, DAD, DAD..........:D

Oh, so it's easier w/ the manifolds off? I'm planning on installing that KKK turbocharger I have (versus that emissions Garrett) and EGR-less manifolds. Maybe I'll do the starter at the same time.

Like night and day.

Definitely do it with the manifolds off. Your only challenge will be the two big 12mm cap screws that must be accessed from the rear. You probably will need more leverage than what you can get with a 1/2" socket wrench. Once those screws are out, the R & R takes 15 minutes.

Excellent news, I'll have to wait then. :)

Can't you get it from underneath? I looked at it real quick today and at first glance is seems like I could get it by just jacking up the car a lot.

On my car that side of the engine is caked with oil I think every seal is leaking over their. So just finding the bolts would be a messy job.:rolleyes:


Ahh dad I need to go to work can you have it ready by 6? :D

It would be tough without a lift. I stood next to my mechanic when he did my 300D on a lift. He loosened the tranny support to get a straight shot at it with a socket. He used a Snap-On extension about 3 feet long (that he explained was designed to flex torsionally and give high instantaneous torque) and a 18-inch breaker bar. After a couple of flexes he broke it loose with a very load crack. I thought he broke the bolt. There is no way I would have been able to get enough leverage on it without a lift. YMMV.

You just need your ingenuity. A 1 foot pipe added to the 18" breaker bar will give you just enough. Of course, laying on your side and having about 2" of available travel before the pipe hits the body is certainly no fun. It's a PITA to break those two cap screws but not impossible.