A few questions for you Veg oil people - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

bgkast · #1 01-13-2006, 12:30 AM

I have been working on a design for a kit to convert my 240. I plan to use a coolant heated filter, hose in hose fuel/coolant line, heat exchanger in the veg tank, and two 3 port fuel valves. I am also planning to use the fattywagons injection line heater for an extra heat boost before injection.

I am wondering if it is a good idea to have each valve switched independently. With independent control I should be able to purge the system with out the residual fuel or oil in the system being returned to the wrong tank. Also should I add an extra pump to the veg oil supply line, or will the stock lift pump be enough? Should I consider adding a 12V fuel line heater to the mix as well? The coldest temps around here are 0 degrees F. I am considering using a 110V heater in the tank to keep it warm over night.

Thank you for your advice. I've attached a lame schematic drawn in MS Paint.

190josh · #2 01-13-2006, 12:35 AM

I ran wvo in my main tank and raped coper tubing around my top radiator
hose no valves just wvo the lift pump never gave me a problem.Did this for about 50k miles
Best regards, Josh

190josh · #3 01-13-2006, 12:38 AM

I thought about using a heating pad in the winter on the tank but I moved
and it doesn't get much colder than 45 were I am now
Josh

greasybenz · #4 01-13-2006, 01:01 AM

one thing i think you should add is a vegtherm rightbefore the IP as well. You can make a glow plug vegheater here is a link on how to make one it will make the oil 110-200F before it goes to the engine.

http://smallglowplugheater.blogspot.com/2005/12/small-glow-plug-heater.html

Zackb911 · #5 01-13-2006, 07:37 AM

I would go here and get in on the group buy for the flate plate heat exchanger

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/groupee/forums/a/frm/f/159605551

I doubt you would need an extra pump most of the "kits" dont include them, as far as switching I would wire them together any cross contamination would be small and negligible from switchover.

I run a Frybrid setup if you goto http://www.frybrid.com/manual.htm the install manual with diagrams and MB specific tips... In my opinion the process is simple and the frybrid design is a good one the kits just too pricey for what it is

Zack

jaoneill · #6 01-13-2006, 08:19 AM

agree with Zack, Frybrid is probably the source of the best information.

FWIW, I live in a very cold climate and wanted to minimize the warm-up time. My setup includes a 14 gal wvo tank in the trunk with all HIH reverse flow (supply & return), through the cabin (in the floor pan wire chase), circular HE in the tank with the fuel pickup in the center. Also in the trunk are a 20' circular HIH HE, heated Frybrid filter and a facet pump. I tee'd the supply and return lines and joined them in the engine compartment. When engine is up to temp I switch on the facet which circulates the wvo within all (60 + ft) of HIH. Usually only takes a mile or so of travel before the wvo temp gauge at the IP indicates 160-170; then I hit the changeover switch.

How you set yours up depends alot on where you are and what kind of ambient temps you are dealing with.

Good luck,
Jim

bgkast · #7 01-13-2006, 12:55 PM

Thanks for all of the information.
I was thinking I would route the lines through the trunk drain holes in the trunk and under the car. I want to avoid drilling big holes as much as I can. I think I will use foam pipe insulation around all of the lines. Do any of you think that this will be a problem? Any other routing paths I should consider?

jaoneill · #8 01-13-2006, 05:49 PM

also planned to route the lines under the car but there is alot to avoid (suspension, exhaust, driveline). routing through the cabin only required four 1" holes. My inner (fuel line) is aluminum, so the HIH is very easy to work with, I fed it through, a foot or so at a time, from the rear to the front. Did both supply and return in about two hours. It is out of sight and, more importantly, out of danger.

Jim

bgkast · #9 01-21-2006, 12:59 AM

Where did you drill the holes to run the HIH? Thanks.

Fredmburgess · #10 01-21-2006, 11:42 PM

BGKast,

I haven't found a need for any additional WVO heaters. I've converted about 20 cars now and all (older VW diesels, 300D's, SD's, CD, and SDL and a 190 D I just finished tonight). All are running very well with only coolant heated tanks and a heated WVO filter. I've used both hose-in-hose and hose-on-hose without problems. I prefer the hose on hose setups now since the only objective is to heat the WVO sufficient to flow to the engine compartment and the heated WVO filter.

- I always put the heater hoses inside a 1-1/4" sump pump drain hose (Home Depot..). That gives them some protection and insulation. For the hose-on-on hose I just pull heater hose and 5/16" fuel line together through the drain hose.

- I run the hoses down between the steering box and the trans, then fasten to the fuel lines/brake lines under the car. To avoid the rear axle/muffler, I remove the rear seat, remove a plastic access cover and run the hoses up into the area behind the left side rear passenger seating position. I drill two 1-3/4" ID holes about shoulder height so the hoses can then go back past the diesel fuel tank and into the trunk.

- I've typically installed the heated WVO filter behind the left headlight or on the left fenderwell. Coolant from the heater hose (near the oil filter on the 300D) goes directly to the WVO filter (hottest coolant to the filter first), then back under the car to the WVO tank.

- I've been using 6 port valves but (2) 3 ports, switched individually to make purging air after filter changes easier, would probably be better.

- I have not needed an additional fuel pump on any of the cars to date.

Can send you some pictures if you like. Sorry for the epistle. Just finished the 190D so I've got WVO conversions on the brain at the moment!

Cheers, all.

Fredmburgess · #11 01-21-2006, 11:44 PM

...oh yeah, forgot to mention that I drove the 300SD for two years and two winters in far north NY. Ran on WVO at -20F! Of course, that was after the 2 hours it took to get the beast thawed out and started on diesel

Biodiesel300TD · #12 01-22-2006, 10:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bgkast

Thanks for all of the information.
I was thinking I would route the lines through the trunk drain holes in the trunk and under the car. I want to avoid drilling big holes as much as I can. I think I will use foam pipe insulation around all of the lines. Do any of you think that this will be a problem? Any other routing paths I should consider?

I wouldn't run the lines through the drain holes. They draines are there for a reason, so let water drain out. Plugging them might be a bad idea, unless you know your trunk area is good and water tight.

dougand3 · #13 01-22-2006, 11:51 AM

Good info, guys...

Fred, I'd like to see your pics. I'm starting a 2 tank conversion of a 300SD. Thanks. dougand3@comcast.net

jaoneill · #14 01-22-2006, 12:38 PM

I went through the firewall behind the glove box and just to the right of the steering column and brake booster. In the rear I went from under the seat (also removed the seat back for easy access) through just to the outside of, and near the base of, the fuel tank on the passenger side. I don't remember for certain but I believe that I was in the near vicinity of the penetration where the vac and elec lines pass through into the trunk area.

Jim

bgkast · #15 01-31-2006, 01:13 AM

Fredmburgess- I would love to see some pictures of your setup, especally where the hoses enter the car and exit into the trunk. Upon further research I am thinking I will route the lines like so: http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/attachments/diesel-discussion/31238d1138605320-fuel-return-design-fuel-line-diagram.jpg