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  #1  
Old 01-26-2006, 08:31 PM
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Buying 1987 W124 300D Turbo ( won't start ) ?

I am looking at buying 1987 W124 300D Turbo with a clean body but it won't start . - No black smoke when trying to start . I disconnected the pipe between the turbo and intake manifold and it almost started, lots of black smoke coming out of the turbo and engine almost started - bad turbo ?

How much is used or rebuilt turbo ?
Can I bypass or shunt the turbo with a pipe and make the car a non-turbo .

How do I check for a cracked head besides looking for oil in the coolant and coolant in the oil (remember it doesn't run) ?

I also need more info on how to check out the EGR and Trap Oxidizer stuff ( any photos or drawings ? )

What else should I look for on this car .

-Thanks. ...................... Edited title/text per PM request.

Last edited by whunter; 03-03-2006 at 12:32 PM.
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  #2  
Old 01-26-2006, 10:01 PM
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Trap Ox looks like a big football under the hood. It's an evil device if left in place.

I've yet to see a bad turbo keep a car from starting, air still gets around it.



Could be lacking fuel to start if you don't see puffs of black smoke... does the glow plug light come on when you turn the key all the way over? You could also check that fuseable link in the GP relay.
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'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

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  #3  
Old 01-26-2006, 10:03 PM
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Loosen the injector lines to see if fuel is flowing through them.
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  #4  
Old 01-26-2006, 10:20 PM
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Hitman X - I didn't see the trap oxidizer as you describe . No black smoke frome tailpipe but it did come out of turbo when I had the manifold pipe off . Wouldn't seized a turbo keep it from running by creating too much back pressure - like the potato in the exhaust pipe analogy ? Glow plug light ibut please tell more .

Speedy300dturbo- I did loosen injector lines and fuel is flowing .
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  #5  
Old 01-26-2006, 10:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkpatt
Hitman X - I didn't see the trap oxidizer as you describe . No black smoke frome tailpipe but it did come out of turbo . Wouldn't seized turbo keep it from running - like the potato in the exhaust pipe analogy ?


Well that's good the Trap Ox isn't there, but the moved it after the turbocharger... So it could potentially be plugged up.

Can you verify if there is fuel in the tank or at least getting to the IP?

I've seen a few cars with seized turbochargers still run, but they were SLOW.
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.
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  #6  
Old 01-26-2006, 10:25 PM
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Make sure the stop lever is in the up position, mine failed and the lever would not always release. So, make sure your stop lever is not staying down.

Thanks
David
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  #7  
Old 01-26-2006, 11:40 PM
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I had a problem with my 81 300SD starting. My glow light was coming on
but only three were working. With a lot of cranking and pumping the gas
it would start with a cloud of black smoke. You should turn on the key
and when the glow plug light goes out do it again then again. Then touch
the top of each glow plug. You will know that the ones that are hot to the
touch are working.
Also I wish someone told me to do this...I will tell the story first. I just bought
my 300SD, it was sitting for almost two years when I got it. After changing
all the fluids I was ready to go. Then one day I was doing about 65 MPH
on the highway, then BANG and the motor stalled....I pulled over and tryed
to start it again, It started but ran and sounded like #%$@ !!! all I heard
was this god awful grinding sound coming from the top half of the engine.
After I got it home I found that three of the four cam bridges were broken.
And no oil up there. I pulled of the oil pan and found that the rubber pice of
the oil pump was rotted and half of it was sitting in the oil pan. So no oil
means BAD NEWS. I was lucky, I fixed the cam bridges and it runs fine.

So everyone that does not know the condition of this rubber oil pulp extender
should check it out. It only cost a few bucks and is easy to do. I wish I did..

89 190E " race car project"
81 300SD 137,K
Buying 1987 124 Turbo ( won't start ) ?-t4mh091628.jpg
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  #8  
Old 01-26-2006, 11:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rkpatt
- like the potato in the exhaust pipe analogy ?

Potato will not stop a car from starting, old wives tale. Check mythbusters, they did a story on this.
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  #9  
Old 01-26-2006, 11:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MB-Owner-in-ind
Potato will not stop a car from starting, old wives tale. Check mythbusters, they did a story on this.


But a plugged cat can keep it from starting...
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I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.

'85 300SD 245k
'87 300SDL 251k
'90 300SEL 326k

Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford.

Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.
[/IMG]
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  #10  
Old 02-02-2006, 08:45 AM
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DIY Turbo rebuild

I am thinking of rebuilding the turbocharger ( 1987 W124 603 300D Garrett TB0369 ) which apparrently has leaking seals but good wheels (no damage ) and bearings (no play ). This seems like the perfect candidate for a DIY rebuild .


I have found a couple of websites on this for other cars-

http://www.saabcentral.com/techhelp/c900/turbo_rebuild.php

http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/turbo/turborebuild.html


Any tips and parts sources appreciated ? - Thanks

Last edited by Brian Carlton; 02-03-2006 at 01:10 PM.
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  #11  
Old 02-02-2006, 09:34 PM
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cant wait to read it
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  #12  
Old 02-03-2006, 01:45 AM
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leave it alone

if the thing has no play in the shaft then leave it alone...

i just tried a rebuild and it did not work.....
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  #13  
Old 02-03-2006, 07:18 AM
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Quote:
i just tried a rebuild and it did not work.....
Please tell us about your experience, blueranger.
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  #14  
Old 02-03-2006, 12:43 PM
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Yeah, what didn't work? You didn't cure your problem, or now your turbo doesn't spin?
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  #15  
Old 02-05-2006, 09:56 PM
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I tried a different injector on # 2 and it ran a lot better . However there was still a lot of blue smoke and the puffing blowby .

I fabricated a compression gage out of an old injector housing plumbed to 500 psi pressure gage . I got readings of : #1-225 #2-125 #3-50 #4-250 #5-225 #6-125 . I put in a tablespoon on oil in # 2 and nothing changed, tired it in #3 and compression went up to to #150 .

It sure sounds like bad rings .

Is it worth doing leak down test at this point?


Can the oil pan the dropped whit the engine in the car to do a " poor
man's" rod bearing and ring replacement ?

Thanks
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