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#1
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Transmission issues
When I put my car in drive after a cold start my car takes an abnormally long amount of time to shift into gear. Then If I just try taking off and accelerating quickly the engine surges and shifts very late. If the engine is at proper operating temperature these issues seem to dissapear and shifting gereally seems to be fine. Something makes me think its an issue associated with the bowden cable, linkage, or perhaps the vaccuum going to the transmission but I honestly have no idea. What are your guys thoughts? Thanks for any info.
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1983 300SD White with Grey interior |
#2
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Have you checked your fluid and filter?? Sounds exactly like what happens when the fluid is real low. If the filter is clogged up it could cause the same problem even with the correct amount of fluid. I'd give it a fluid/filter change.
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#3
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Naturally, with tranny issues, the fluid is the first thing I check and it is at proper level. But, I have had a leak (which makes me look at the level quite often). In fact I had my old mechanic change the fluid and filter over the summer of 05' but as I saw it was leaking I went ahead and changed the pan gasket with the correct torques and refilled with new fluid but did not change the filter at that time (october). Do you think that might be the issue?
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1983 300SD White with Grey interior |
#4
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slow shifting
If your trany hasnt been rebuilt, and its longevity is due to proper fluid changes, chances are you valve body is sludged up with varnish. Get a gasket set and filter for your unit from a trany parts place like Makco, and take the valve body out and bring it over to a transmission rebuilders for a good clean up. They have special solvents and a steam cleaning process to de-gunk all the check-valve seats, hyd. circuits, etc. Dont forget the vacume modulator, change it. Check kick down cable for smooth operation, and also lube all your the throttle linkage parts. A new spring set and balls would be a good idea, but generally the balls stay ok: inspect them with a loupe for galling. This and A New filter and ATF of course, should help some. If after your valve body is done up right, and vacume modulator is changed, should you suffer additional woes, professional help will be needed. Worn bands, actuator pistons and seals, weak pump output or worn down disc plates, leaking O-rings, broken govenor, worn and scored drum walls, could also cause slippage and shifting irregularities.
dave... 1993 MB 300TE 4Matic 186,000 miles 1985 Volvo 740 turbo wagon (mucho miles) Last edited by dave_rose69; 02-11-2006 at 11:27 PM. |
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