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  #1  
Old 03-02-2006, 05:13 PM
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Alignment today shows up a front end repair. Upper Control Arm?

Got my 82 300sd aligned at the dealer for the first time. It was $99.

Got in the car to go home and heard creaking in steering on front end. Went back to dealer. Very nice mechanic came back out and showed me what was going on.

The passenger side upper control arm jumped up and down when the wheel is turned. Can I lubricate somehow till I can get it fixed? He said an hour and half labor of $135. Can I do this repair myself or are there special tools?

He also said the creaking when stopping was the brake strut support joint on that same side. This is also the caster adjustment. He reccomended doing both sides of these at the same time since an alignment would be necessary

Any opinions?

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  #2  
Old 03-02-2006, 06:23 PM
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So they still did the alignment even though some front end parts were bad and you would need another alignment? Did they call you and tell you that and give you the option of getting it fixed?

Len
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  #3  
Old 03-02-2006, 07:15 PM
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No

No,
He didn't. I guess he should have. It would have been nice to wait, but seeing as I just put on four new tires, I didnt want them chewed up. The caster was off on one. That would have worn down the outside edge. He adjusted it and that's when the noise appeared.

I figure I can poke a small hole in that rubber boot and load it up with silicone or grease till I can get it fixed.

The control arm is the worst. It will not require another adjustment, but the other part will if replaced.

Two separate parts we are dealing with on the same side of the front end.
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  #4  
Old 03-02-2006, 07:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willrev
The control arm is the worst. It will not require another adjustment, but the other part will if replaced.
Will, you can change the upper control arm on the W126 yourself. It will have a new ball joint and you won't need a new alignment. The removal and reinstallation of the bolt is the most difficult chore, but, it won't take you more than 2 hours for the job.

The second problem is the guide rod bushings. They are more involved and can be difficult depending on how corroded they are.
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  #5  
Old 03-02-2006, 07:46 PM
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Help me with parts here

I need some help with what parts to get. I know I need an upper control arm for the passenger side - Right side? It is the upper.
Febi $84.

Then I need two bushings. But I am confused to which bushings.
There are individual bushings and a bushing kit. Which one?

The other part he called a Brake Strut support joint that adjusts the caster.
I cannot seem to find one called the same on the parts here online. This is the one I need help with a name.

Thanks.
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  #6  
Old 03-02-2006, 07:46 PM
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I've done that to CV joints, used a needle-type attachment that goes on the grease-gun to poke through the boot and put a small dab of RTV on the hole when finished. Put it in a thick part of the boot, not an area highly stressed or flexed.

Best grease would be a good moly grease like CV joint grease IMO.

- Jeff Miller
in Holland, MI
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  #7  
Old 03-02-2006, 07:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willrev
I need some help with what parts to get. I know I need an upper control arm for the passenger side - Right side? It is the upper.
Febi $84.

Then I need two bushings. But I am confused to which bushings.
There are individual bushings and a bushing kit. Which one?

The other part he called a Brake Strut support joint that adjusts the caster.
I cannot seem to find one called the same on the parts here online. This is the one I need help with a name.

Thanks.
You need the right side upper control arm. It will typically have the bushings already in place.

Normally, the joint that goes bad utilizes this kit:

http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/mercedesshop/sophio/wizard.jsp?partner=mercedesshop&clientid=catalog.mercedesshop&baseurl=http://catalog.peachparts.com/&cookieid=1JU1236H41QV16G3PW&year=1982&make=MB&model=300-SD-002&category=L&part=Guide+Rod+Mount+Kit

However, it's difficult to diagnose via wire with certainty.
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  #8  
Old 03-02-2006, 08:36 PM
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It may be the idler arm bushing. They are notorious for doing just what you describe and much cheaper to do. Could be the arm also though.
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  #9  
Old 03-02-2006, 09:26 PM
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well, now about the idler arm

Well,
You may laugh but I am not laughing.

The mechanic today said, "Oh, by the way whoever you had replace your idler arm bushing put it in upside down." I said, " WHAT?!"

I let my local mechanic stick it in the day he put it on the rack to do my front shocks. I called his shop on the way home from the dealer and his wife said, "he doesn't remember putting it in." I said, well tell him he did and he can put it back on his rack and fix it!

I think I may jack it up and do the da... thing myself.

So, yes. My idler arm bushing and bolt was replaced. But seriously, the service lady turned the wheel while the mechanic showed me the problem with the control arm. With my hand on it, you could feel it jumping up and down and hear the squeaking from it.
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  #10  
Old 03-02-2006, 10:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by willrev
Well,
You may laugh but I am not laughing.

The mechanic today said, "Oh, by the way whoever you had replace your idler arm bushing put it in upside down." I said, " WHAT?!"

I let my local mechanic stick it in the day he put it on the rack to do my front shocks. I called his shop on the way home from the dealer and his wife said, "he doesn't remember putting it in." I said, well tell him he did and he can put it back on his rack and fix it!

I think I may jack it up and do the da... thing myself.

So, yes. My idler arm bushing and bolt was replaced. But seriously, the service lady turned the wheel while the mechanic showed me the problem with the control arm. With my hand on it, you could feel it jumping up and down and hear the squeaking from it.

how can it even be put in backwards? i put mine in the same way it was in there and the only thing i could see being backwards was the botl or a washer
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  #11  
Old 03-02-2006, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Diesel Giant
It may be the idler arm bushing. They are notorious for doing just what you describe and much cheaper to do. Could be the arm also though.
the only thing i have ever heard of a bad idler arm bushing doing is causing the wheel to shake
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  #12  
Old 03-02-2006, 10:22 PM
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Please excuse the semi hijack...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Brian Carlton
Will, you can change the upper control arm on the W126 yourself. It will have a new ball joint and you won't need a new alignment. The removal and reinstallation of the bolt is the most difficult chore, but, it won't take you more than 2 hours for the job.

I'm assuming it is pretty close to the same on a 123. Can the upper control arms be replaced without having to compress the spring?
Exactly what jobs require the springs to be compressed? (
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  #13  
Old 03-02-2006, 10:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JimmyL
I'm assuming it is pretty close to the same on a 123. Can the upper control arms be replaced without having to compress the spring?
Exactly what jobs require the springs to be compressed? (
I believe so.

Yes, the upper arms are unloaded. They can be done without removing the spring.

The LCA bushings and the lower ball joint require spring removal.

In looking at the W126, I think you might have difficulty with the guide rod bushings if the spring remains in place due to the inability to get to the forward mounting point..........but..........I haven't done it.
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  #14  
Old 03-02-2006, 11:55 PM
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I have. The springs do not need to be removed. Not a difficult DIY actually, just a bit messy.
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  #15  
Old 03-03-2006, 12:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete Burton
I have. The springs do not need to be removed. Not a difficult DIY actually, just a bit messy.
.......the guide rod remains attached to the LCA??

.......you don't replace the bushing at the mounting point on the LCA??

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