Makes perfect sense.

I'm just pondering whether the position at maximum fuel will allow greater volume at the typical fuel pressure during the drip timing method.

Maybe the fuel flow would be the same.......independent of the helix position......because the pressure in the system is so low??

In this case, it would not matter where the helix position was........you'd still get the same volume..........

Yes??

My gut is telling me to ask you to check the timing of the cam once again to verify by the generally approved method. Both for chain stretch and cam timing. Check the service literature as well to clarify it to yourself if you like. Lineing up the cam marks and reading the resultant degrees on the crank strikes me as a bad ideal. The dial gauge against the lobe is the only valid test that I remember. I am too tired to think right now as am forced to deal with irregular hours recently and I am very tired. If both tests are valid you should be producing the same results. Your not are you? Or perhaps you are? It's just I am too tired to think. Sounds like you have things in hand generally though. You would not really want to leave the cam 4-5 degrees off anyways if that is what it really is. The underlying reason is that many of these cars have been played with by people of less than my limited skill sometimes. Because of that I leave nothing not done right as I go along just in case there is an obstacle ahead. Plus most of us really want maximum performance and fuel milage in the end anyways. After you have done this job properly you hopefully will not have to go back in for a very, very long time.

Yes. In the drip method fuel drips out the tube because the pump piston has not yet covered the spill port. As soon as the piston covers the spill port dripping should stop.

On the other method as soon as the piston covers the spill port it starts to displace fuel and it will well up in the hole of the delivery valve

IP Timing
 

Well i got the pump off, i cannot think of a time when i have been this dirty.
Just to clarify something, when i am looking at the pump(gear near me)do i turn it CW or CCW for my problem?. Is ther any servicing of the pump like oil that now would be a good time to put in. I also removed what looks like a oil line on the pump, What is that for? Does it advance the timing with pressure of is it for lub?.Thanks:eek:

Don't touch the pump shaft relative to the housing. We'll all be lost.:eek:

Just put the pump back in place with the housing and shaft one tooth rotated toward you. The slots in the housing may not line up with the bolt holes......in which case.......after you have engaged the spline.......rotate the housing toward the engine. The timing will advance.

The oil line provides lubrication for the pump. It does not affect the timing.

IP Timing
 

I set the car up for 24 degrees BTDC before i removed the pump, also on the pump there are marks to set up # 1 injector, Its a mark that lines up with a missing spline on the gear, which by the way appears to be one spilne out which maybe part of the problem, If i rotate the shaft to line up with the mark this appears to me as the same as rotating the pump toward the engine(if it were still installed). Brian am i missing something here, will i screw it up if i rotate the shaft?.
Thanks ( I see you have 9,999 post):confused:

I'll be interested in what Brian says as I did what you are suggesting, go to 24 BTDC, set mark on pump shaft and install in the middle of the slots. Seems like you still need to do a "drip or bubble" test to "tune it in"

I will do a fine tuning with the drip. What was wrong with your pump?:confused:

Yes, that logic is OK.

You can do it that way, but, I typically figure it's safer to leave the pump shaft alone and rotate the housing and shaft as a combination. I can think about it easier that way.

If you rotate the pump shaft, relative to the housing, the pump shaft must rotate clockwise (looking at the end of the shaft).......which is engine rotation......and the timing will advance.

Hopefully, rotating the pump shaft one tooth clockwise will align the marks.

Nope, I've got 10,000 posts;)

.......:eek:.............

Have to get a life.:o

Nothing was wrong with the pump. I took the head off my daughter 240 to replace the head gasket and T chain. Thats when I had my first expirence getting valves, crank, and pump working togather again :D

IP timing
 

Ok, I installed and timed the pump for 24 degrees BTDC, Results are
way more power, better idle, engine runs a lot smother.
The bad thing is the car has gone from no smoke to a smoker, i ran a can of diesel purge, new filter (both) still no help. How can it have no smoke when timed to about 7 degrees BTDC, (Albeit no power and bad idle) to lots of smoke and good power,idle when set to 24 degrees BTDC. Anyone:eek: :confused:

I cant imagine why it started to smoke all of a sudden but I would get in that thing and flog it up the steepest section of interstate I could find. ( I used to do that towing my tent trailer and would get huge clouds of black smoke)

Early enough model to have the vent line from the vaccum pump to breather area? Oil in line? Would have to be a coincidence of course. The other outside thing is rings might have to settle down a little if they will as you might have changed their operational enviroment by a much greater pressure power stroke than car may have had for a long time. That timing was a way off not just a few degrees. New operating conditions? The only thing you have really changed is the effective mean power burn pressure strength. Same as a gas car sometimes. Do a valve job and they might start to smoke where they did not before at all. The expression was the rings started pumping oil I think. Not unknown on gas engines at least. Check for excess oil from valve breather hose as well for way too much blowby present. A hard run should not hurt either in my opinion. Hope its something simpler but not much left other than perhaps someone turned up the pump a lot to try to compensate for the very much lower timing not realising it was off. Still do not think it would smoke heavy at idle that way though. But others of more knowldge should comment. Initial idle was higher after timing reset? Or masked by dash adjustment?

It's entirely possible if an injector is dripping somewhat. Checked them recently??

IP Timing
 

The idle was better, the dash system is disconnected (by me).maybe i am wrong but if it was getting to much fuel would't it have been worse at 7 degree BTDC than 24? but the fact that it did not have any problems before has me puzzled.I cleaned the IP with Simple Green in a parts cleaner, is it possible that i damaged the allitude sensor that is on top of the pump,if the pump thinks i am at 5000ft this could explain the rich mixture?. (i am presuming one of the causes of black smoke is a rich mixture).
Thanks:confused: I am thinking of starting another thread about this, because it was originally about IP timing and now about smoke...