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  #1  
Old 04-13-2006, 07:27 PM
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the shakes

I've gone over everything;

fuel system sealed (no air leaks)
new motor mounts
cam timing set (valves adjusted as well)
pump timing set fairly close
new rack dampner bolt
5 new Bosio nozzles just swapped in

Any ideas why it still wants to rip itself out of the engine bay? I just installed the new nozzles which have done next to nothing. The only thing I have noticed is now it comes to a smoothish idle for a few seconds before developing the shakes. This is my show car and is embarrassing to drive with other people with it shaking so bad.
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Last edited by rg2098; 04-14-2006 at 11:48 AM.
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  #2  
Old 04-13-2006, 08:30 PM
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I have the same problem with my 300D-T.

replaced:
motor & tranny mounts
motor shocks
bosio injectors (DIY balanced with spare shims)

...and still shakes. Sometimes it does, sometimes it doesn't. I thought it was my one cylinder with low compression, but it shakes intermittently. Have you checked your compression/leakdown?

Does anyone know whether the valves rotate slowly while the engine runs? One of my exhaust valves is leaking and maybe a leak is being covered/uncovered while the exhaust valve rotates in its seat. Then there would be uneven torque per cycle at idle and would shake the engine more.
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2002 Audi S6 Avant
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1984 300D (sold)
1990 560SEL (sold)
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  #3  
Old 04-13-2006, 11:16 PM
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Well I did notice the #1 and #4 injector seats were covered with oil while the rest were dry. I haven't run any tests regarding compression, I figured when it started at 5 degrees without a block heater last winter, the engine was fine.
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  #4  
Old 04-14-2006, 12:44 AM
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Hmmm, I seriously doubt you have compression issues then. Mine won't start under 30F without a couple hours of block heatage.

Do you think diesel spilled on your injector seats while removing them? How does the car run otherwise? Mine runs strong besides the starting issues and shaking at idle.
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2002 Audi S6 Avant
1983 300D
1984 300D (sold)
1990 560SEL (sold)
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  #5  
Old 04-14-2006, 01:47 AM
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What about a bad prechamber?

If one of the balls is in bad shape and not dispersing the fuel properly, that cylinder would be way off on power as compared to the remaining cylinders.

Couple of things you can do to verify a specific cylinder:

1) You can crack the injector lines.......one at a time.......but you'll probably need a more accurate way to measure the drop in engine speed other than your ear.

2) If you can get one of those infrared temperature sensors, and check the exhaust manifold directly at the ports, you might be able to see one cylinder lower than the other four.......this would steer you in the right direction.

3) That test that measures the small voltage from the glow plugs while the engine is running might be valuable for information........as well.
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Old 04-14-2006, 02:14 AM
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My car also gets the shakes, but only after more than an hour of highway driving, and then only sometimes. But my car runs cool, it usually runs around 50-60 and gets up to 70 on the highway. I'm going to replace the t-state soon, hopefully it won't make it worse.

I was thinking maybe it had something to do with the fuel filters and I'm going to replace them, too, but maybe this will require a little more work on my part .
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