Stuck axle shaft
 

I could use some help... I am working on pulling my right axle shaft on a W116. I have followed the directions in my Hynes manual and factory manual, along with a forum search to educate myself. It's amazing how less than a paragraph in a manual can take 3 days! :eek:

I am at the point of the disassembly where you knock the rear axle shaft out of the wheel flange using a brass drift. I have even tried a little heat wrench. At this point, I believe that it may be rusted in place.

To give a little background; last week the boot split, fortunately in my driveway. This weekend I decided to replace it myself. :dizzy2: I have followed all of the instructions exactly and still it will not disengage. :mad: There is an assembly tool (MB#116589246100) listed in the factory service manual that is no longer available even through the dealership. (thus saving me wanting a high $$$ tool.) This tool is essentially a press which mounts to the wheel bolt flange, and you press out the axle. Unless someone knows a trick to freeing these I may attempt to fabricate this tool.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

a 3 jaw puller with a deep socket would work like the mb tool

Thanks for your suggestion. Unfortunately, the problem is not a "pulling", but a "pushing". What I am trying to do is drive the axle shaft IN to disengage the splined end (stub) from the hub.

I have seen this done with not a whole lot of effort, but have never done this job myself. Please keep the suggestions and wisdom coming, as I am sure some sort of puller will be needed when I put this all back together again! :D

i understand what you are saying. the screw on the puller will force the cv shaft out. i have done it on a honda before

Have you loosened the rear end from its mounting bracket, and the jacked the diff up through the floorboard. That is what I had to do on my 80 wagon to get the splined end out of the hub.
Is yours moving at all, or just won't move enough to clear the hub?
(I have to ask, and forgive me, but you did remove the screw in the end I'm assuming.)

OH... I get it , sorry I'm slow today:o . Thanks Kmaysob, I can see how that would work. I'll head to NAPA or the Tool store or if too $$$ maybe the Rent All tomorrow. I knew posting would help.:D

JimmyL -yes I did all of the above. I even went so far as to pull the retaining clip. I realy wacked on it(along withW-D40, PB Blaster) with the drift and nothing.

Autozone may have a loner. Leave deposit, use tool, bring tool back, get deposit back. It's a wonderful thing.
Sorry about the simpleton question, but often simple things are overlooked. Keep us posted.

2,

Have U tried the sledge hammer method using a brass or aluminum punch? That's what I would do.

P E H

JimmyL- No autozone within 2Hrs of here, in fact no one could get a re-man. axle. Good news is while doing a Forum search I came accross CVJ Axles in Denver who have them in stock for $195 with a 3yr. warenty vs $275 and 1yr for everyone else.:D

P.E.Haiges- I bought a 3/4" brass drift as I thought my little 1/4" was to small for the job, used along with a 10lbs hammer :eek: nothing!!!

At lesst my Diff. cover is clean. Did you-all know that the breather tube cover has a star on top.

2,

Heat always workes for me. Try heating with a torch and hitting punch with the sledge. About the worst that can happen is that U will damage the oil seals.

U don't have to expand the outer spline much to break the bond. Try a little heat at first then more until the axle breakes free.

P E H

Just checking; have you removed the retaining bolt in the center of the axle?

Yes, I did try heat, maybe not enough tho, I 'll try again getting things hotter than last time.

Yes all bolts and clips are out. Thanks

I punched the center with a wooden dowel and hammer a couple of times. Once you have a little slit of light between the axle and hub, you can put a screwdriver in there and rock the axle out. (Grab the axle and work it back and forth.)

But then don't let it hang from the diff, or you might need new seals there.

I'm speaking of working on my 123, but they might be the same.

I am just wondering why there would be so much rust in your geographical area. I cannot visulise a senario where the splines are damaged but keep it in mind if that puller requires heat as well. Check it over carefully before installing the new one and if the new axel starts to bind pretty hard do not overforce it in. Again my understanding is that rust is not a large issue in your area unlike mine. And you have already used some heat and a few good swats. It probably should have already moved. Keep an open mind. :)