I could use some help... I am working on pulling my right axle shaft on a W116. I have followed the directions in my Hynes manual and factory manual, along with a forum search to educate myself. It's amazing how less than a paragraph in a manual can take 3 days!

I am at the point of the disassembly where you knock the rear axle shaft out of the wheel flange using a brass drift. I have even tried a little heat wrench. At this point, I believe that it may be rusted in place.

To give a little background; last week the boot split, fortunately in my driveway. This weekend I decided to replace it myself. I have followed all of the instructions exactly and still it will not disengage. There is an assembly tool (MB#116589246100) listed in the factory service manual that is no longer available even through the dealership. (thus saving me wanting a high $$$ tool.) This tool is essentially a press which mounts to the wheel bolt flange, and you press out the axle. Unless someone knows a trick to freeing these I may attempt to fabricate this tool.

Any advice would be much appreciated.

__________________
2dieseljohn
1979 300sd (283,000+) Road Trips
1983 240D 4-speed (350,000+) Daily Driver
1967 E-TypeS1 in bits and pieces

a 3 jaw puller with a deep socket would work like the mb tool

__________________
have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it

Thanks for your suggestion. Unfortunately, the problem is not a "pulling", but a "pushing". What I am trying to do is drive the axle shaft IN to disengage the splined end (stub) from the hub.

I have seen this done with not a whole lot of effort, but have never done this job myself. Please keep the suggestions and wisdom coming, as I am sure some sort of puller will be needed when I put this all back together again!

__________________
2dieseljohn
1979 300sd (283,000+) Road Trips
1983 240D 4-speed (350,000+) Daily Driver
1967 E-TypeS1 in bits and pieces

i understand what you are saying. the screw on the puller will force the cv shaft out. i have done it on a honda before

__________________
have no worries.....President Obama swears "If you like your gun, you can keep it

Have you loosened the rear end from its mounting bracket, and the jacked the diff up through the floorboard. That is what I had to do on my 80 wagon to get the splined end out of the hub.
Is yours moving at all, or just won't move enough to clear the hub?
(I have to ask, and forgive me, but you did remove the screw in the end I'm assuming.)

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John

OH... I get it , sorry I'm slow today . Thanks Kmaysob, I can see how that would work. I'll head to NAPA or the Tool store or if too $$$ maybe the Rent All tomorrow. I knew posting would help.

__________________
2dieseljohn
1979 300sd (283,000+) Road Trips
1983 240D 4-speed (350,000+) Daily Driver
1967 E-TypeS1 in bits and pieces

JimmyL -yes I did all of the above. I even went so far as to pull the retaining clip. I realy wacked on it(along withW-D40, PB Blaster) with the drift and nothing.

__________________
2dieseljohn
1979 300sd (283,000+) Road Trips
1983 240D 4-speed (350,000+) Daily Driver
1967 E-TypeS1 in bits and pieces

Autozone may have a loner. Leave deposit, use tool, bring tool back, get deposit back. It's a wonderful thing.
Sorry about the simpleton question, but often simple things are overlooked. Keep us posted.

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John