However I am relatively new to this, I just bought the car, engine run superb, but will not shut off using key, manual shutoff works fine. I have read many of the post concerning this problem and am still lost. I would be more than happy to email anyone pictures of what the vacuum and injector look like atm if you will provide your email. Please help, also pictures of one that works would be nice. I appreciate your help.

and there is a good chance that you will find it at:
http://www.peterschmid.com
where you follow the links for "Vacuum Schematics".
The diagram I see there shows two vacuum "orifices" and a "damper" [aka "dashpot" ] on your car [assuming I'm looking at the correct diagram].
The diagram does not specify which size orifice your car needs but does show that there are 6 different sizes. If you need the p/n(s) for these orifices, let me know. These orifices can be critical so don't treat them as just another in-line connector. I obtained a full set so that I could balance the vacuum controls as is called for. If you don't have one, get yourself a vacuum gage/pump and long enough extra vacuum line and "T(s)" to allow you to monitor the vacuum at various points while you are driving. I hope your vacuum control valve [vcv] checks out OK for it runs about $200 on-line! I'm not intimately familar with your YR/Model but it does have an EGR valve and a complicated looking "mechanical switchover vacuum valve".
I would start by looking for leaks by looking in the archives of past posts on how to do this... starting at the vacuum pump, then the large line that runs to the brake booster.
Enough for now... I'll subscribe to this thread to monitor your progress... and help further if needed!
Best regards,
Sam

I have been tracing out the vacuum lines in my car. I have replaced various lines, the good news, now my windows work. The bad news though, I still can not get the car to shut off. Any new suggestions? And again thanks for the time.

Windows?
A simple way to start is to list all vacuum devices in your car, and name all that do not work, and windows should not be on the list- they're electric. Vacuum devices (depending on how your car is equipped) could be:
- engine shut-off
- brake booster
- central door locking, including trunk lock
- air conditioning
- cruise control
- climate control (air flaps inside dash that direct air to windshield, floor, etc)

Try to describe how all these are working- full, partial or not at all. A typical example of "partial" is the cruise control- if the car looses speed on a steep hill, but then does not recover to your set speed, the cruise is not getting enough vacuum.

Typically, if one device gets a vacuum leak, it could affect the performance of other devices.

If im not getting enough vacuum going in the booster, what parts can be affected by this?

Windows? Cruise Control? Both are electrical on this car. Don't suspect a brake booster right off the bat. It is usually not the culprit.

As was mentioned before, start with the correct diagram for this car. Ensure that no vacuum lines have come loose from something in the engine, especially after oil change, etc..Then you can isolate the locks and climate control by disconn. and plugging one "T" to ensure the engine side is good. After that you will need a vacuum guage, ie..mighty vac, to determine if you have sufficient vacuum from the pump, check the shut-off valve at the IP, or isolate any other problem.

Good Luck.

__________________
Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Im just asking a general question as to what all can be affected when there is not enough vacuum going to the booster?

He has a '78. They still had the vac cruise system.

__________________
Adam Lumsden
(83) 300D
Vice-President of the MBCA International Stars Section

Wait...on a 78 300D. Cruise Control is vacuume w/ electic contols.

If you are not puulling enough vacuum from the pump you will have decreased preformnce from theo follow.

Engine Shut off - it may not shut right off but stumble at first.
Power Door locks (central Locking)
Cruise control
Climate control - you have the 4 vertical buttons with the Chyrsler Servo.

Your best bet is to put a guage on one of the hoses coming off the large black hose which runs fro the vacuume pump to the brake booster. you will need to block off all the other lines so you can get reading from the pump to the booster. I think 30 in what you want.

The good news is that the vacuume pumps are fairly easy and inexpensive to repair/rebuild.

so let me get this straight with a weak vauum flow through the booster line will result in a slow shut off, locks, and cruise control. Because my 80' 300D is running fine but the booster line is not showing enough vacuum. And im not getting any sort of vacuum pressure in the main door black thing with 3 outlets.

Yep...
I'm not sure what will go 1st but I would image the door locks with the Injector pump fuel shut off last. I rebuilt my vacume pump a few weeks ago, it had low vacuum pressure but would shut off fine, untill I put a thousand miles on it in a week. Then diagram split so bad it wouldn't shut off at all. After I rebuilt it and hooked up every thing it was great.

Just before the pump diaphram completly failed I had to rev it up just before shutting it off, this built up enough pressure to actual the fuel shut off valve.

Have you tested the shut off valve on the injection pump with a handheld vac pump....it only takes about 5 inches of vac to shut off engine with a good valve...most of the time you can suck on the line and it will shut off....looks strange but it works....as a test.....

If your vacuum pump is bad your engine will not shut off using the key, your power brakes won't work, door locks won't work properly, the trans will shift pretty hard, and usually there will be quite a bit of oil in your air cleaner housing (and subsequently on the ground beneath the passenger side of your car.)

I would suggest looking in your air cleaner housing. if there's a lot of oil it's there because the diaphram in the vacuum pump is torn, causing oil from the crankcase to be forced through the positive pressure dicharge line that discharges through the lid of the air filter housing.

rebuild kits are available for about $20-35 dollars. i recently rebuilt mine, and within 2 weeks it failed again. It is very possible that it failed because I didn't install it properly. I've ordered a new kit, and will see if I can find torque specs for all of the bolts. If it works I'll let you know.

Hello Biodiesel614...I am looking at my Vac pump here on the desk..I do not know which way the large diaphram goes in...saw your post on the failure and wondered if any luck on diaphram orientation ??...I cannot find any tech info on this thing...fits a 1980 240D.....

Look, there is a simple place to always start, and this is assuming that you don't have a Mityvac YET (you will need one).
We'll assume you have brakes, as usually folks do.
*First, find the main vac line from pump to brake booster.
*you vac line may have one or two "T"'s coming off of it
*from one of those, find the lines that go back to firewall just next to brake booster
*Green is to climate, Yellow is to door locks, yellow w/ gray stripe to vac reservoir, brown to ignition shutoff, and black just vents under dash.
*Unplug green and both yellow lines and plug the connector they came from. The lines going into the firewall can just sit there.
*Now start the car and let it run for a couple of minutes, then try and shut it off. If it shuts off, then you have a leak either in the climate control vac lines, or the door lock vac lines. Attach one at a time, let motor run and shutoff again. You can find the offending system that way.

if you still don't shut off, report back. Then it could be vac pump, shutoff valve, ignition switch piece, loose brown line to ign, or from ignition to shutoff on back of IP, to name a few.

Also, if you have a second "T" off the vac line, you may have to plug that one also for this test.

Report back......

__________________
Jimmy L.
'05 Acura TL 6MT
2001 ML430 My Spare

Gone:
'95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black
'85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White
'80 240D 154K "China" Scar engine installed
'81 300TD 240K "Smash"
'80 240D 230K "The Squash"
'81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John