Thanks! Do you use anything special to drive them in?

I didnt use a slide hammer. There is a threded crank puller that is used on bikes. I found it at the local bike shop on the adivce of other threads here. Those threads talk about welding to make it work but I didnt need to. I found one with a long bolt to use for extraction. The tool theads right into the prechamber. Then I used a large deep socket and the bolt that came with the puller to yank the PC's. Installation was a snap. Cleaned all the carbon out of the seats that had built up from the old busted PC's leaking. Coated the new PC with some oil..lightly. Then pushed it in as far as it would go by hand. YOu want to get it in by hand enough that the alignment tab hooks in. Then I reattached the bike crank puller tool and hit the top of that with a hammer til it seated. Took 15 mins to install both new ones including the lock ring.

If there is not much carbon, they should only need to be tapped in with a small hammer and a brass driver (Brass won't hurt iron/steel).

With the PC out, it's a great time to get a look at the piston tops.

One thing I noticed with my PC's out was a bit disturbing. One the cyl tops was oily. And the oil was sort of crusty like it had combined with the normal carbon thats up there. I sort of figured with this cars history that the oil rings were gonna be stuck. My hope is that with the new PC and a re-nozzled injector that I can burn off that old sludge crap. With luck the oil ring will free over time. If not, i guess Ill see a bit of blue smoke eventualy.

Give it a good-old Italian tune-up.

Is it possible that someone tried to run this car with gasoline and toasted the PC?

- Jeff Miller
190DT