Another newbie question. I am trying to remove the alternator on my 84 300 td wagon. I have the bottom bolt out, the wiring harness unnpluged, the belt tensioner backed all the way off and the belts off. It looks like the belt tensioner bolt goes through the alt. and needs to come out, but the threaded tensioner adjusting rod won't allow that. Does the bracket that holds the tensioning assembly come off with the alt?

If I remember correctly then the bracket does come off at the same time. I'm not sure this is the "correct" way but I believe it was the only way I could figure to get the alternator off (I did this about 6 months ago). Yes, it isn't exactly easy to get the alternator off.

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1985 300D Turbo ~225k
2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k
1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k

the alternator unbolts from the main bracket. you dont need to undo the adjuster, just move the alternator toward the motor enough to get the old belt off and the new one on.

as i remember there is one bolt that attaches to the adjuster, 13 or 14 mm. this comes out and the bottom bolt (a big one) the bottom one often wears in the place the alternator sits so it comes out with a banded appearance. it might be hard to get out too because of this. the top bolt is usually easy to get out.

look at it closely it should become evident what needs to stay and what comes off with the
alternator.

btw, usually the brushes and regulator is what is wrong with the alt. maybe 75% of the time. so i would get it tested before replacing it. or i would just replace the brushes and reg first for good measure since it takes about 10 min and the r and r of the alternator takes at least prob an hour.

good luck

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

the cure to a bad alternator is to replace the brush assembly in the back of the alternator.... and you do not have to remove the alternator to do this...

Replacing brushes usually works, sometimes it's too worn and needs to be rewound, new bearings, etc. I know I couldn't get one of the bolts out on mine..... there wasn't enough room for it to come out all the way (But that may be specific to my year model).

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1985 300D Turbo ~225k
2000 F350 (Powerstroke) 4X4, SWB, CC, SRW, 6spd ~148k
1999 International 4900, DT466e (250hp/660 ft/lbs), Allison MD3060 ~73k

americans are all acustomed to replacing alernators....
and that is the first thing we do.... but if you have a mercedes
or volvo with a bosch alternator all you need to replace is the brush
assembly/voltage regulator... this is a little plastic item that screws into the back of the alternator... in fact you should carry a spare in the glove compartment... your alternator will last through probably 10 of these items..

and if your really cheap you can take your old one of these and solder in new brushes...

the cut off length for the brushes is 5mm. Pretty easy replacement in both 300D and 420sel.

I wouldn't waste my time trying to put new brushes in a voltage regulator. the piece costs just $25 from Bosch.

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Der Panzermann und Fraulein Fahrvergnuegen

1991 420SEL 201K "The Big Blue One"
1985 300DT 205K chassis/285K engine nee California emissions "Goldbug"
1983 300TDT 255K "The Womble"
1983 300 DT 214K "Sea Sprite"-Rear-ended a truck
1983 300SD 285K "The Donor" Gave his life so that others can live
1980 500SL Euro 105K "Der Panzer"