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#1
06-20-2006, 03:40 PM
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Valve adjustment: turning the motor
300D 1985
What is the size of the crankshaft bolt so I can buy the right socket so I can turn the motor ? Also what size wrench do I need to remove the injectors ?
__________________
1985 300D : the clean one 180k miles - Now passed onto my parents. 2000 E39 M5 2002 e46 330xit 1991 mustang notch (project) 1970 chevelle (project) 
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#2
06-20-2006, 03:42 PM
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Size...
Quote:
MF
__________________
1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD 1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD  2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K; 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K
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#3
06-20-2006, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
__________________
'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88 '01 VW Beetle TDI '05 Jeep Liberty CRD '89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T '78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110 Oil Burner Kartel #35 http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg
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#4
06-20-2006, 04:13 PM
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I also think it is the 27 mm deep socket.. the Sears thin wall works nice...
but what is a Valave ? LOL
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#5
06-20-2006, 04:30 PM
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Sorry typing with oily hands.
Thank you guyz.
__________________
1985 300D : the clean one 180k miles - Now passed onto my parents. 2000 E39 M5 2002 e46 330xit 1991 mustang notch (project) 1970 chevelle (project)
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#6
06-20-2006, 05:40 PM
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All valvea adjusted.
2 were in spec 2 were too loose the 6 other ones I could not fit the feeler guages. From the looks of the 14mm nuts they looked like they had never been adjusted.
__________________
1985 300D : the clean one 180k miles - Now passed onto my parents. 2000 E39 M5 2002 e46 330xit 1991 mustang notch (project) 1970 chevelle (project)
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#7
06-20-2006, 05:45 PM
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I prefer the handheld starter to bump it over... I use it for the SD and the BMWs.
__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look.  '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]
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#8
06-20-2006, 05:49 PM
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Hand held starter...
Quote:
__________________
1987 Mercedes 300SDL; SOLD 1985 Mercedes 300D; SOLD 2006 Honda Pilot - wife's ride; 122K; 1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - 3X locked; 182K
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#9
06-20-2006, 05:52 PM
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Quote:
$15 maybe? Actron I believe is the brand. Either from AutoZoo or Pimp Boyz, it's a great little device. All it does is activate the solenoid. But no hunching over to turn the motor over manually with the crank.
__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG]
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#10
06-20-2006, 06:24 PM
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With a car ' new to you' I would start the car up after the valve setting just to see how it sounds.... it is safer to only do one thing at a time and see that you are back to ' neutral' .... otherwise you can wind up not knowing which action you took which needs correcting...
Sure glad you caught those tight ones and hope that did not cause any damage..once an exhaust valve does not seat well on the head the excess heat can damage it very quickly...
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#11
06-20-2006, 06:31 PM
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Well I am guessing at this point that the valves have never been adjusted. The car has 180k miles.
Think it's possible that the head is damaged?
__________________
1985 300D : the clean one 180k miles - Now passed onto my parents. 2000 E39 M5 2002 e46 330xit 1991 mustang notch (project) 1970 chevelle (project)
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#12
06-21-2006, 05:16 PM
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Quote:
__________________
Der Panzermann und Fraulein Fahrvergnuegen 1991 420SEL 201K "The Big Blue One" 1985 300DT 205K chassis/285K engine nee California emissions "Goldbug" 1983 300TDT 255K "The Womble" 1983 300 DT 214K "Sea Sprite"-Rear-ended a truck 1983 300SD 285K "The Donor" Gave his life so that others can live 1980 500SL Euro 105K "Der Panzer"
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#13
06-21-2006, 05:45 PM
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"I found using a 22 mm combination wrench to turn the power steering pump and thence the engine "
A very bad idea... and there are lots of theads which have the discussion about this... 1. The MB Factory Shop manual SPECIFICALLY SAYS NOT TO DO THAT !! 2. The reason it the shaft on the power steering pump is a taper.. so that excess tightening forces that junction together... Use the crank bolt if you are smart... the rest of you.... I hope you don't ever have to take that pulley off to service the power steering pump.... I helped TCane when the PO had done that... not fun... and you risk damaging the pump in the process....
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#14
06-21-2006, 06:53 PM
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[QUOTE=leathermang]"
A very bad idea... and there are lots of theads which have the discussion about this... 2. The reason it the shaft on the power steering pump is a taper.. so that excess tightening forces that junction together... Greg...An impact wrench is a great "equalizer" 
__________________
 1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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#15
06-21-2006, 07:12 PM
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LOL, Stevo, it is not the nut... but the tapered hole pulley which is the problem once it has been TORQUED down too much...
Two of us with a big vise and heating it with oxy-acet and took three heats and lots of heavy hitting... A true Interference fit once you Crank ( pun ) it down...
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