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#1
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Front bumper removal?
My front bumper is pushed in from a recent accident, I am going to be overhauling it pretty soon with a new bumper. Any idea on where I start with this job on how to remove the bumper? I couldn't find any useful information online
Car is an 84 300D not a euro |
#2
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Although I can't attest to the w123, most US spec German cars of that era were mandated to have 5mph bumpers which usually translated into a heavy aluminum crossbeam (bumper) attached via 2 impact absorbing shocks into the unibody front frame rail.
Typically, in this setup, there is one vertical bolt in each frame rail holding the impact shock and bumper to the front of the car. Removes these and the whole bumper can be removed pulling it forward until the impact shocks slide out of the boxed rails and free it from the car. After that, any further disassembly is easy. Please note: if either of the impact shocks is compressed from impact and not extended, handle with great care, there's a literal ton of energy potentially stored in it. Try prying or pounding the bumper forward to release that compression before you do any disassembly, or take it a body shop, those things can pack a real punch if they release on their own. Beware
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Stable Mates: 1987 300TD 310K mi (Hans) 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee OM642 165k mi (Benzrokee) |
#3
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on a us spec 123 there are three or four bolts holding the bumper shock in the car. They usually don't rust too much but take your time and use oil.
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#4
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Removing the bumpers is one of the easier things to do on these cars. (W123) On each side of the bumper there are three bolts holding them on. Easily accessible from underneath and they are easy to loosen. Remove the 3 bolts holding the brace on the CAR. Not the bolts holding the brace to the bumper. You'll know what I mean when you look underneath. Essentially the same on the front and rear.
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#5
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As mentioned, 6 17MM ATF nuts hold the bumper to the car, use a box end wrench or socket .
Don't loose the thick flat washers, you'll need them again later . Now is the time to take the rubber trims off and clean and polish the chrome . There's a recent thread on this by husky man that had detailed instructions . An easy job but that bumper is a HEAVY son-of-a-gun so don't let it fall on you .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#6
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So, remove the bumper brace from the car. Don't remove the bumper from the brace. You will remove the bumper while it remains attached to the brace.
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#7
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Quote:
The integral channels/angle inside the bumper had broken. Just one left! Ouch. It took me an hour or two to recall, but after 30 years of ownership, everything has happened before! In my previous case, it was to the back bumper. I will remove the bumper shocks from car, then bolt them to the bumper. Four bolt heads will be hidden, and four will be visible. I used stainless carriage bolts for the visible ones last time. May use flat heads for the ones under the rubber. Some of the hooks on the rubber clamping strips are missing. Was going to use bolts there too, but maybe I should first see if I can get new strips. I did find a great write up on those strips! 1984 300D: front bumper strip came loose. (would have been nice to get a thank you after you wrote that vwnate1) I appreciate it!
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Graham 85 300D ![]() |
#8
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What's going on with MB pricing?
Quote:
Response: Quote:
I will probably order a set from USA. In meantime, I have some ideas on how to get by with existing that might be better than those hooks that break!
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Graham 85 300D ![]() |
#9
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I'd chek with several dealers, on line and the M-B Classic Center as they've always been the best pricing for me .
Those darned impact rubber clips are a serious PIA, my '82 240D's rear impact strip was loose when I bought it and twenty + year old finally sagged*so* much I couldn't ignore it any longer and decided to address it, at fist I thought I'd get a nice bumper from the local junkyard, it turned out they only had bent or badly corroded ones so I took the badly corroded one apart and Lo ! it had a perfect impact strip along with prefect retaining clips, co$t me a few dollars, them I took my old bumper off the car and apart, cleaned and polished in under the impact strip and reassembled it using the various parts , wow it looks nice now . The only difficulty was figuring out how to slip / force the impact strip back on .
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-Nate 1982 240D 408,XXX miles Ignorance is the mother of suspicion and fear is the father I did then what I knew how to do ~ now that I know better I do better |
#10
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I could have ordered new strips from USA, but wanted to get bumper back on sooner than later!
First, I have been working on bolting the shocks to the bumper. I did this a while back to the rears. I am almost done the fronts. 4 bolts are hidden but are just where the plastic trip is, so I had to countersink those. The other 4 end up up just below the impact strip. I am going to use oval head countersunk there. They will hardly be seen. On rears, I used S/S carriage bolts, but they need a flat surface. For the plastic hooks, I only have 2 hooks left! I am not going to remove the plastic strip. I will leave the broken nubs in place and then add S/S self tapping screws with fender washers to hold the plastic/ impact strips in place. Tested that, and seems to work. Before that, I am going to adhere the impact strip with 3M trim double side VHB tape. British call that using Belts and Braces (or suspenders!) I didn't anticipate this job. Shouldn't have bounced on the car using the bumper!
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Graham 85 300D ![]() Last edited by Graham; 05-30-2020 at 11:01 PM. |
#11
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I had some trouble re-mounting the bumper. This because after bumper fell off, I didn't know exactly where those shock pads were originally. The mounting holesa re oversize and one is slotted. But I was till out by about 1/4" overall on the holes where the u-bolt attaches. I slotted the holes in the car about 1/8" each side and it now fits. PS: More in the other thread where I got the idea for attaching the broken strip.
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Graham 85 300D ![]() |
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