I have to replace the driver's door seal on my '80 300SD. I have the new seal but when I tried to remove the old seal from the top of the door, it started to tear apart. Then I thought: If the old one is in so tight, how will I get the new seal back in?

Has anyone done this? Any hints to make it easier to do?

P E H

Its not much fun. Typically I think you start at the upper back corner, the only one that is a 90 degree angle. Start putting in the seal from there across the top of the door. You have to set in the lower side of the seal into the door groove, and then press in the upper side with a tool. This can be your fingers, or a blunt wood ruler or some such flat edge. You compress the seal enough to push it fully into the groove.

I also used the trim sealant in a tube.

My results were pretty good. The door seals completely and doesn't leak any air or water. The only difference I notice is that the door must be firmly slammed to close it. Something to do with the seal installation along the door hinge surface - it sits higher because its new, or because I did something wrong in the installation. I can't see anything I did wrong though.

Not easy, but I'm enjoying the results a lot on that car.

Ken300D

__________________
--------------------------
1982 300D at 351K miles
1984 300SD at 217K miles
1987 300D at 370K miles

Ken,

At the front of the door there is a strip that looks like it is secured by some "push in pins" that holds the seal in place. Do I just pry the strip out to remove the old seal and does the strip stay in place when I put it back in? Or do I have to get some "push in pins"?

Thanks for your help.

P E H

I can only answer for a 123, but yes, a strip of aluminum held in by several push pins. Remove gingerly - you don't want to break the pins, although I think you can get them from ********az.

I didn't find the job too difficult, more tedious. Use a good trim adhesive, like 3M - it's black. On a 123 there is only a partial section that you need trim adhesive for, the rest of the seal is held in a channel or by the peice of aluminum with the push pins.

I too have to shut the doors firmly - I assume it's due to new rubber that sits higher. Good seal all around. A good project that's not too expensive and yields great results if your current seals are suspect.

__________________
'85 300D - 206K (sold)
'81 240D - 149K (sold)
'03 Jetta TDI - (sold)
'79 300D - (sold)

You're probably going to break those old plastic push pins that hold the strip. I found replacements at Tractor Supply. They are not particularly unique. Once you get the first one out you can take it to compare with generic replacement parts.

I decided to use the trim seal adhesive all the way around the seal. I felt it would keep water out better. But I can see how it is not required anywhere except the front hinge area. The door I resealed also required POR-15 along the bottom seal groove because water had collected there and caused rust. This is a typical rust location for any door that has a leaky seal.

Ken300D

__________________
--------------------------
1982 300D at 351K miles
1984 300SD at 217K miles
1987 300D at 370K miles

"You're probably going to break those old plastic push pins that hold the strip. I found replacements at Tractor Supply. They are not particularly unique. Once you get the first one out you can take it to compare with generic replacement parts."

You know, come to think of it, I did order the pins when I ordered the door seals. You're right, most of them probably can't be re-used.

They are not as heavy duty as say, the door panel pins are. I pulled all 4 of my door panels to convert from auto to manual windows and didn't break a single push pin.

__________________
'85 300D - 206K (sold)
'81 240D - 149K (sold)
'03 Jetta TDI - (sold)
'79 300D - (sold)

i'm having a very difficult time removing the door check pin off my 87 300DT. the pin had what looked like a snap ring on the bottom of the pin, which i found odd. also, the pin is not just pin. it looks like a...ummm...a male appendage. thus, it is impossibly to hammer this pin upwards like any other home or auto door check pin. is this a stock pin? and if so, how do i get this bastige off?

where can i buy aftermarket door seals/weatherstrip for mercedes w 124 and what is the price? this is for my car in india. genuine is quite expensive
kumar
white69@rediffmail.com

I know All Parst Express and Fast Lane, the buy parts tab at the top of the page doesn`t sell out of country. there may be other on line parts suppliers that will.
Or try E-bay http://shop.ebay.com/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m38.l1313&_nkw=mercedes+w124+door+seals&_sacat=See-All-Categories

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Just did this on my driver's side to see how it would go. I think it seems to be common that it is now *hard* to close the door. It closes and it seals, but it is hard to close.

I picked up some 3M gasket seal adhesive for the front hinge area, and it ain't sticking. Probably epoxy would kill the rubber.

__________________
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
1982 300D, anthracite grey, 260k miles, Greasecar
1999 E300D, black, 160k miles, Greasecar
2010 Honda Insight Hybrid
http://www.chuckwyatt.com
http://www.wordimpressive.com

Anyone determine what the correct seal adhesive/material is? is 3M good enough? is it applied after the seal is slid in the channel? Like forced in underneath as an extra measure? Or just used in the gaps where there is no channel?

__________________
Current Diesels:
1981 240D (73K)
1982 300CD (169k)
1985 190D (169k)
1991 350SD (116k)
1991 350SD (206k)
1991 300D (228k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (442k)
1996 Dodge Ram CTD (267k)

Past Diesels:
1983 300D (228K), 1985 300D (233K), 1993 300D 2.5T (338k), 1993 300SD (291k)

Anyone used the URO brand seals? That seems to be only brand I can fine that isn't a $250 OEM.

I know URO is generally garbage, but it seems to be my only option. Thanks.

Tram & tjts1 can give you reports of great experiences with ÜRO seals.

Personally, I would not recommend them.

The L/F and L/R door seals list for $354.00 ea. Wholesale $283.20 ea.

The R/R and R/F door seals list for $260.00 ea. Wholesale $208.00 ea.

Iam still not using URO seals. I have however removed good sections off doors at PNP to replace the cracked deteriorated sections. Then used black RTV on the ends where they butt together. Definitely better than what I had.


These high prices MB shows now, will probably come down as the price fluctuates. The rear window seal is $103 now Wholesale. I did see it at $123, then jump up over $163.

Charlie

__________________
there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works

Where are you seeing $103 for the trunk seal? I definitely need a new one and can't find a price lower than $120. Thanks.

-Kevin