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#1
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non-turbo to turbo conversion
I have a 300d and I'm wanting to install a turbo, as the 3.0l is a little weak when naturally aspirated. What I need to know is are there any internal engine parts that need to be changed/upgraded in order to handle about 10lbs of boost from a turbo? Where is a good place to look for these parts?
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#2
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you need the nitride crank the oil squirters, the valve train.... it would be cheaper and easier to put a turbo engine in
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#3
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Could I still use a turbo and get away with a max boost of maybe 6-8lbs using stock components?
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#4
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i take it you want more power off the line in your NA.... easy solution.. get a 4 speed and drop the slush box automatic in the trash
stock boost on the turbo om617 is 11 psi i belive and at cruiseing speed 2500 rpm's my boost is 8 psi... the non turbo could possible handle it.. but i wouldnt want to risk more than 3-4 psi with it |
#5
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Well, the car I have is junk-it's been wrecked-I'm putting the engine in a Bronco2 and plan to mate it to a 5sd stick shift
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#6
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Quote:
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1987 Mercedes 300D |
#7
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If you're going to go to that much work, I'd use a turbo engine. All a turbo by itself is going to give you is more air, which is helpful at high altitudes, but without a turbo injection pump and ALDA you're not going to get the same HP as a factory turbo engine.
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1977 300d 70k--sold 08 1985 300TD 185k+ 1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03 1985 409d 65k--sold 06 1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car 1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11 1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper 1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4 1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13 |
#8
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Quote:
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#9
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I know I should have held out for a turbo engine, but I found this old beat up 300D and got it for $300-delivered to my door! I had it running within 30 minutes-it even ran on five year old diesel left in the tank. I would have loved to find a turbo version, but couldn't find one that didn't require a lengthy trip to retrieve. I have really fallen in love with these little cars and plan to buy another as a daily driver-I never thought I'd say this as I'm a Ford mechanic (Fords only current diesel offering-the 6.0-is a piece of s###)
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#10
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i do know the 4 speed NA's are faster off the line than the 300D turbos with an automatic, or maybe i was seeing things
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#11
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i think the nas are faster off the line. lower rear end gear and they have to push the turbo a bit before they can develop any power.
you might want to drive this car and find a turboed car for the project. tom w
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual. ![]() ..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis. |
#12
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Quote:
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#13
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Quote:
If you can buy a ticket to India, you can get the ZF TX-18 5 speed MB uses brand new for around US$1100
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99 Gurkha with OM616 IDI turbo 2015 Gurkha with OM616 DI turbo 2014 Rexton W with OM612 VGT |
#14
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Okay, you got a Bronco2 that is getting a Diesel MB engine.
Excellent choice of engine. But the others are telling the truth. The MB Diesel is torque, and a Bronco2 needs torque. You won't get any benefit from the turbo until it winds way up. Some may not beleive it, but the non-turbo I drive is way better on the low end. The turbo car I have is only good after 60mph for getting up to 80mph. (for me, just my opinion). Either go get that turbo engine complete (the ALDA on the IP and the crank with oilers are two huge reasons) or get your skills up on these engines with the non-turbo, you won't be sorry. After you get all the details worked out you can swap it later for a turbo if you still want to.
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80 300D 340K Owned 30 yrs 83 300SD 440K Owned 9 yrs - Daily Driver 150mi/day 02 Z71 Suburban 117,000 15 Toyota Prius 2600 miles 00 Harley Sportster 24k 09 Yamaha R6 03 Ninja 250 |
#15
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Well folk, my project has hit a major snag. Yesterday, my buddy and I spent all afternoon in 104 degree heat pulling the motor from the old 300d. I thought something funny was up when I tried to bar the motor over so my buddy could get to the torque conveter bolts-the crank pulley would budge. To make a long story short, I pulled the pan and my bearings are fried-so fried that I almost lost #1 rod. This blows because I had test run the motor when I had first got the car-it ran alright with little abnormal noise and good oil pressure (2 to 3 on dash gauge) for about 10 minutes before it died (I figured it had sucked some air into the fuel system an given it no further thought) Now I've got to find some oversized bearings so I can maybe have the crank turned, and locate at least one or two rods. If anyone can offer some advice or help, I'd be grateful as I plan to press on with this project even if I must locate another engine
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