|
|
|
|
|
#1
08-15-2006, 02:51 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Flooded Brake Booster!
Some of the archived posts refer to brake fluid damaging the booster when the MC 'o' ring goes south. This is usually followed with a page describing booster replacement.
So the question is: when the 'o' ring fails and booster gets flooede with dot4, should you replace the booster? (Please say no)      
|
|
#2
08-15-2006, 03:30 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
All the break booster is, is a large diaphragm. you need to get all the fluid out of the vaccum side. so you will have to pull it. assuming there is no damage to the diaphragm i don't see why you would need to replace it. i would be sure all the fluid was out of it, and then re-install it and see how it works.
worst case is there is some damage you didn't find while it was out and now you have to spend the time to pull it agian and install a new one.
__________________
 1983 Toyota Tercel 4WD Wagon - 1984 Mercedes-Benz 300SD 4-Speed(My Car!) 2005 C230 Kompressor 6-Speed Manual
|
|
#3
08-15-2006, 03:58 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
Replace it. Brake fluid is super corrosive to all sorts of materials. The odds of it not eating a hole in something in your booster are small. There is no way you could really clean it well enough even if the damage isnt already done. If you have ever driven a W123 without the booster you would know that its not something you want to just fail on you out of the blue.
|
|
#4
08-15-2006, 04:19 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I had the same problem on a 2000 Blazer. If you don't replace the booster now, you'll be replacing it soon enough.
__________________
1987 300SDL 167k 1992 Volvo 740 140k 1990 Volvo 740 250k 1989 Volvo 240 269k Anyone want to trade an old Volvo for an '87 300sdl? 
|
|
#5
08-15-2006, 04:28 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
__________________
BENZ THERE DONE THAThttp://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...c/progress.gif 15 VW Passat TDI 00 E420 98 E300 DT 97 E420 Donor Car - NEED PARTS? PM ME! 97 S500 97 E300D 86 Holden Jackaroo Turbo D 86 300SDL (o\|/o)
|
|
#6
08-15-2006, 08:51 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
How do you test a brake booster? What are the symptoms of a failing brake booster? I had a leak on the M. Cylinder around 4 years ago. It was bad enough to eat the paint off the booster. I still have brakes but I have a squeel on the rear passenger wheel that wont go away. I already changed calipers and pads. Could this be a symptom?
__________________
'85 300D Cal 280,000 miles '14 GLK 350 60000 miles
|
|
#7
08-15-2006, 09:00 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
Could also very likely be a dragging parking brake shoe. When I had a rear wheel sqeal that wouldn't go away, that turned out to be the problem.
__________________
-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life-  '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k)
|
|
#8
08-18-2006, 02:35 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I have heard horror stories about changing the booster. On a 116 do I have to remove the dash?
I recall brake fluid is a solvent not corrosive so it will remove paint. Some posts state it will eat rubber. Well metal brake lines, cast MC, rubber lines, resivour to MC rubbers ... brake fluid in the booster is not an uncommon issue so ther must be hundreds of MB's out there with boosters that the owner did like me and sucked out as much as possible with a small dia hose. New booster price is @!#@!#%!@ What is reasonable $ for a used booster?
|
|
#9
08-18-2006, 05:13 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
This happened to me as well, I changed the MC out about a year ago I believe, and noticed the booster had fluid in it. The brakes had always been a bit hard and under-boosted...and now I know the reason. As it is now, when I put my foot on the brake and start the car, the brake pedal does not move downwards noticeably... so the booster isnt doing much for me. If I do one medium-hard stomp on the brake and then try to do another one I will not have any vacuum assist. I have just learned to live with it for now, as boosters are expensive, plus the car brakes very very well if you give it enough muscle. I saw a site that had remanufactured ones for like $100 but can't remember where it was.
__________________
1985 CA 300D Turbo , 213K mi
|
|
#10
08-18-2006, 06:32 AM
|
|||
|
|||
|
The W116 brake booster is a bxxxh to remove/install, but you don't need to remove the dash. It is just in a very busy space on the firewall and the bolt for the upper suspension arm is in the way. It will take some contorsions , but it come off in the "normal" way. The 4 nuts under the dash are a real treat , as well. You can't even see 1 or 2 of them. Best advice, IF you need one, is to get a rebuilt at Advance Auto or Autozone for about $100. I got a W126 booster out of a boneyard, and I was lucky, but it's not worth the hassle - get a rebuilt one.
Rick
__________________
80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)
|
 |
| Bookmarks |
|
|
Linear Mode
