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#1
10-16-2006, 11:00 PM
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W210 - Glow Plugs & Fuel Lines/O-Rings
With 96,000 on the E300, I am thinking I am pushing my luck with the original fuel lines & O-rings.
Glow plugs replaced by dealer 2 years ago, but this may be perfect opportunity to show them the light of day. (Insert obligatory accolades for Sir LightMan... for "Finally - Step By Step Glowplug Change - '98-'99 E300! " Finally - Step By Step Glowplug Change - '98-'99 E300! Few questions there:
O-Rings, looks like I will do the viton. Will replace fuel lines and clips.
What about other items? Will replace O-ring between EGR and the Intercooler. I see threads on the shut-off valve, seems kinda pricey to change for no reason? What about the crush washers? Should I remove the injectors and let Bosch pray over them? Or, just a waste of time & money? Looking forward to this project. Any other suggestions before I am elbow deep in this? Thanks.
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raMBow 1999 E300DT Obsydian Black Metallic, Heated Full Leather Parchment options, E2, K2, 136,000+, best 36.5 mpg - GP's 12-04 & 11-12 Zero Stuck 2010 Honda Odyssey - The BrideMobile - best 26.5 (2) 2005 Honday Accord- (1 -Corporate 1 - Personal) - 110,000 4-cyl 30mpg 2000 VW Golf GLS TDI, Upsolute Chip (sold to Brother, now 300+k on it) 48.5 mpg like clock work 1987 Honda CRX HF - Sold 87,000 always over 50 mpg Max 67 mpg 
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#2
10-16-2006, 11:19 PM
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IIRC, that reamer is about $60. I haven't yet pulled my intake, but will do so "one of these days."
Rotating the glow plugs? Don't bother. Take them all out, ream the holes, check the plugs, and put them back in. There's no reason to bother noting which cylinder each came from. Use any good antisieze on them, but as with any antisieze application, don't lather it on so thickly that it ends up inside. You don't need to worry about electrical conductivity, as there will be metal-to-metal contact on the threads. Note that threads siezing isn't what breaks the plugs off in the head. The daisy-chained hose is the cheapest and (once the other parts are removed) easiest part of everything you mention. You might as well, since they will start to leak eventually, and even faster if you touch them while working. As for the shut-off diverter valve, I think you'll find that removing the intake isn't all that hard, so you won't mind doing it again if your valve fails.
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#3
10-17-2006, 01:44 AM
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Any good anti-sieze will work. I coated the entire GP except for the tips to be sure. Need to buy an intake manifold gasket for the job. Also, why not check your injectors while you are that far?
__________________
01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke 99 E300 Turbodiesel 91 Vette with 383 motor 05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI 06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow 04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler 11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow
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#4
10-17-2006, 07:32 AM
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I've got the reamer available to loan out. Along with it comes a tap to clean up the threads, a 12mm twist socket and a 12mm Snap on socket.
Contact me off list if interested. Len len@sokoloff.com
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#5
10-17-2006, 01:41 PM
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are you planning on running bio-diesel or SVO in the future? If not then the stock lines shoudl be ok for a couple years.
__________________
2005 SL65 1999 E300 1995 E300 1994 SL320 1988 560SL 1987 300TD 1982 300D 1955 300SL
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#6
10-17-2006, 04:32 PM
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Thanks for the info so far, not planning on BioDiesel at high percentages. Have regularly put in some B20 with no problems noted.
__________________
raMBow 1999 E300DT Obsydian Black Metallic, Heated Full Leather Parchment options, E2, K2, 136,000+, best 36.5 mpg - GP's 12-04 & 11-12 Zero Stuck 2010 Honda Odyssey - The BrideMobile - best 26.5 (2) 2005 Honday Accord- (1 -Corporate 1 - Personal) - 110,000 4-cyl 30mpg 2000 VW Golf GLS TDI, Upsolute Chip (sold to Brother, now 300+k on it) 48.5 mpg like clock work 1987 Honda CRX HF - Sold 87,000 always over 50 mpg Max 67 mpg
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