Hi, next week I will be replacing the clutch on my 83 240D. The release bearing is starting to make some noise , so after 258K mi. I think its about time for the works .(disc,pressure plate,release bearing ,pilot bearing) I have replaced clutches on various cars and trucks ,but not on a Benz. What I would like to know is there any tricks or anything out of the ordinary that I need to know? Better to ask first and feed off the vast knowledge of this forum than to make the job harder than it is . thanks in advance.

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'83 240D 264k on 100% biodiesel/ 31mpg
83 300D 217K the $800 gem
'82 300D 267K the new WVO project car finished and driving for free
International tractor B275 on B100
Ford 555 backhoe on B100
Sargent 25 ton Rough Terrain crane on B50

I hope someone replies. I'll be changing mine soon too. Same type symptoms.

I know a local guy that has 420K on his original clutch.

Cheers,

Bill

I just bought a 240 4 speed. I hope someone replies too because I plan on printing off this thread and saving it just in case...

Scott

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Scott
1982 Mercedes 240D, 4 speed, 275,000
1988 Porsche 944 Turbo S (70,000)
1987 Porsche 911 Coupe 109,000 (sold)
1998 Mercedes E300 TurboDiesel 147,000 (sold)
1985 Mercedes 300D 227,000 (totaled by inattentive driver with no insurance!)
1997 Mercedes E300 Diesel 236,000 (sold)
1995 Ducati 900SS (sold)
1987 VW Jetta GLI 157,000 (sold)
1986 Camaro 125,000 (sold - P.O.S.)
1977 Corvette L82 125,000 (sold)
1965 Pontiac GTO 15,000 restored (sold)

One thing that I did last time that saved time later was too remove the clutch slave from the bell housing that will save you from bleeding the system, I used to disconnect the hydraulic line, easier at the time but more work later. Removing the linkage "clips" was a challenge the first time. Also be sure and mark the drive shaft in case its gets seperated, which can happen. Doing the clutch on these cars is not bad at all and feels so good when you drive it

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"

dont forget to have the fw turned smooth. and replace the pilot and throw out bearing while in there and maybe the front seal on the tranny.

but i never would change a clutch just because of a little noise. i would wait til there is a functional problem. it might last a couple ofmore years without doing it.

but if you decide to go ahead, good luck

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

I haven't installed one yet, but I removed one from a junker and assisted a friend installing one and replaced my slave cylinder. My thoughts are that the mechanical bits are very straightforward. The hydraulics can be fiddly. The area around the slave cylinder is awkward to access and the chances of boogering the hydraulic line are somewhat high. I like Stevo's advice- if you can remove the slave from the bellhousing and keep the hydralics intact, do so. Bleeding can be a pain- bleeding from the right front wheel worked for me.

Rick

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80 300SD (129k mi) 82 240D stick (193k mi)77 240D auto - stick to be (153k mi) 85 380SL (145k mi) 89 BMW 535i 82 Diesel Rabbit Pickup (374k mi) 91 Jetta IDI Diesel (155k mi) 81 VW Rabbit Convertible Diesel 70 Triumph Spitfire Mk III (63kmi)66 Triumph TR4a IRS (90k mi)67 Ford F-100 (??)

defiantely avoid breaking the hydraulic clutch system if you can.

they are a royal pain to bleed.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.