Alignment recommendations

[JWJ]

My '83 300D is balding the front tires on their inner edge.

I've had a national tire chain do an alignment twice and the problem keeps coming back.

Could this be due to a worn suspension/alignment part that needs to be replaced?

JWJ

[Skippy]

Excess wear on the inner sides of the tires is an indication of excessive negative camber. Worn control arm bushings can cause this.

Beware national chain alignments. Some are actually good, but most will just set the toe within spec and send you on your way. I know, I've worked for them.

[dannym]

You need to find out what is causing your negative camber in the first place them fix it.
You need to look at your whole front end suspension. I recently had the same problem with outer tire wear. Replaced the Upper Control Arms, Sway bar bushings, Rear track rod bearings, Center link, Stearing damper and tie rods.
Also bought new tires and shocks all around.
went to the dealer for an alignment. Problem solved.

In order to do a proper alignment on a Mercedes you need a special tool called a spreader bar. That simulates toe in during driving conditions. Most manufacturers give toe in specs that shops use to simulate driving conditions. Mercedes does not provide any specs. If a shop is doing an alignment without the bar they are only guessing and will probably get it wrong.

Do yourself a favor and only go to the dealer for an alignment.

Dany

[H-townbenzoboy]

Originally Posted by dannym

Do yourself a favor and only go to the dealer for an alignment.

You don't always have to go to the dealer for an alignment. Good MB specialist shops can do the job just as well without the markup.

But on a related note, I'm having the same problem as you. Turns out I need two new upper control arms, a steering damper, bushings for the connection of the lower control arm at the strut rod, and bushings at the connection of the strut rod at the frame.

[t walgamuth]

and if those suspension parts are worn enough they let the bottom of the hub carrier splay out and it creates a toe out situation, increasing the wear on the inside of the tires.

tom w

[JWJ]

Thanks for all the info!

How would I know if my front suspension is worn to be causing this?

If this is the case is replacing parts to the front suspension a DIY situation?

JWJ

[dannym]

Originally Posted by JWJ

Thanks for all the info!

How would I know if my front suspension is worn to be causing this?

Well, your driving a 23 year old car with probably original suspension parts.
I think that once you start removing the old parts you'll be supprised at their condition. And be amazed at the improvement.

Originally Posted by JWJ

If this is the case is replacing parts to the front suspension a DIY situation?

Everything is DIY if you have the right tools. That said suspension parts are easy to replace for the average weekend warrior.

Danny

[Old300D]

I've got the same issue with tire wear. I replaced my upper control arms with new and it fixed 80% of the problem. I've got the lower control arm parts (track rod bushings, LCA bushings, ball joints, new shocks) but this is a task that is daunting me.

My spring compressor will not compress the springs sufficiently to remove them. I did not forget to remove the top shock mount. Any suggestions on getting the springs out?

And the ball joints? How on earth does the ball joint get removed and replaced??

Tool suggestions for those who cannot afford the $1200 spring compressor or the $300 ball joint press?

[dannym]

There's a couple of parts missing from your list. Add
Rear track rod bushing/bearing
and steering related components:
tie rods
center link
steering damper
Idler arm bushing

Ball joint replacement can be found here:
http://www.diymbrepair.com/FrontSuspension/
You can also find a lot of info in the on line shop manuals and the archives.

Why do you have to totally remove the spring? I took it out then had a bear of a time putting it back in. When I realized I could have just compressed it and left it in there.
What kind of spring compressor do you have?

As far as tools Autozone's ball joint pres works fine for free. And there are spring compressors available in the tool rental program.

danny

[Old300D]

Originally Posted by dannym

There's a couple of parts missing from your list. Add
Rear track rod bushing/bearing
and steering related components:
tie rods
center link
steering damper
Idler arm bushing

Ball joint replacement can be found here:
http://www.diymbrepair.com/FrontSuspension/
You can also find a lot of info in the on line shop manuals and the archives.

Why do you have to totally remove the spring? I took it out then had a bear of a time putting it back in. When I realized I could have just compressed it and left it in there.
What kind of spring compressor do you have?

As far as tools Autozone's ball joint pres works fine for free. And there are spring compressors available in the tool rental program.

danny

Thanks for the suggstions. I've already replaced the damper and idler arm bushings. The track rod bearings seem to be tight. The steering also seems fine, but if an alignment shop has an issue with tie rod ends, they can be replaced then.

I assumed the springs had to be removed. You seem to be suggesting the control arms can be removed after just compressing the springs? My spring compressor is two threaded rods each with claws that fit on the outside of the spring-- very difficult to fit into the coils, but it can be done. I just can't compress the spring enough to completely lift it off the lower seat -- comes off most of the way, but the back is still contacting it..

I am unfamiliar with AZ's ball joint press. Does it remove ball joints from the control arm or just install them?

[dannym]

Hey,

I assumed the springs had to be removed. You seem to be suggesting the control arms can be removed after just compressing the springs?

That's exactly what I'm suggesting.
If your replacing the LCA bushings then you have to take the force of the spring off the LCA to remove it. That doesn't necessarily mean the spring has to come out. As soon as the force of the spring is off the LCA your good to go. you would want to tie it up somehow to keep it from dropping out.
If I remember correctly you have to compress a minimum of 8 rings to be able to remove the spring.

The autozone press will not remove the joint, it will only press the new one in. You need a drift and a sledge hammer to remove the old joint. My drift was a 11/4" socket if I remember correctly. 3 or 4 blows and it came right out.

Here's some results of a quick search I did:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/search.php?searchid=722704

Danny

[Old300D]

Thanks for that. Too often it slips my mind to simply search.

[Old300D]

Replaced lower control arm bushings on the car this weekend. I did not have to pop any ball joints, just removed the springs (thanks for the loan on the compressor DannyM), drilled out the old bushings and squeezed in the new. I also replaced the shocks and guide rod bushings at the control arm.

The shocks made a big difference (Bilsteins), and now it pulls a bit to the right. Looking for a good alignment shop in the Denver area....

Originally Posted by Old300D

Looking for a good alignment shop in the Denver area....

These guys did a good job on my W123, not in the best part of town:

http://www.daplus.us/ShowMap.aspx?address=1D8A90E94C74320DD0B78763E95E76CDC8A5D457630FD074AA2181716CBF36DD&city=0DBFDCED6541DCACC93F0AD1605368C0&state=AC0A9E5A1EEF93593788F5A6F2D58C43&zip=DC056F5ED2DF6EF7F12009B0C2C2C015&name=BD6B53A31A4F0C599F3E5298413B537D9CC7A0EBAC346E4254862BB17687624AEFA06EF397370F1DE359A9F254F702C 03AB74FB148A286D484C412F45EE9ED8A&phone=9E3570F68059E8224E57BF51398CBB9DDBF17657E107A0F4224EDE4C5BF1F3B5&partner=400119

[rocketman93116]

The track(guide) rod is adjustable at the mount and affects camber. I doubt any of the Mc tire and alignment shops/chains mechs/techs even know the adjustment is there.

Those type of shops usually just "set the toe and let it go".

Find a good shop that knows alignment for Mercedes or take it back and show them this adjustment.

BTW, (Tool suggestions for those who cannot afford the $1200 spring compressor or the $300 ball joint press?) This was the best price on correct type spring compressor tool I could find; click in link

http://www.zdmaktools.com/wbstore/main.asp?action=PROD&PROD=924-0231&CTMP=1&LowCt=0

I also put this link up on "Tech Help" category to see if anybody else knows of better price. They might also have that ball joint press tool. Check it out.