I've only got 3000miles on this oil sample so I'm going to resample again at 6000miles. I used Titan Oil, a local company.

Soot is 0.8% on the current synthetic oil at 3000 miles vs 0.4% at 3000 miles on the dino oil when I changed it.

What did the analysis say about when you should change it? I can't read that thing very well.

Sorry, I don't have a scanner. I'll see about getting one tomorrow.

It says "Values normal for this sample. Resample at normal interval."

My latest oil sample with 6000miles on Delvac1. All is good so far.

My next sample will be at 8,000 miles, about as far as I'll take it no matter what the results show.

(Sorry about the quality. I still don't have a scanner and their printer's ink is very light.)

I decided to go ahead and change the oil today. No particular reason other than its a beautiful day and cold weather will be here soon.

In total I went 6 days shy of a year and 7,253miles on the oil. The by-pass filter still gets hot so that means its still filtering and flowing oil.

So how much better does it filter than with the MB stock setup, I couldn't tell if there was a significant change in the numbers.

I have been going about 5-5.5k per change on delvac, but will be switching to Rotella Syn soon due to it being cheaper....I will probably go about the same miles on that oil as well.

What do you usually pay for an analysis. Blackstone is $22 and thats pretty steep, may as well spend it on a filter/some oil instead.


I am using the Turkish FRAM filters in our MB's now....with the wound cotton string inside the cartridge. Anyone have any results to show they filter any better? They seem to be made stronger and also don't have flakes of cotton gin debris falling off of them when taken from the package, so that is one of the main reasons I switched.

It hasn't filtered out all the soot, but it has kept it under control. It's mainly to get the sub-10micron abrasives out of the oil.

I got a bunch of really old prepaid bottles from one of my past jobs. I have no clue how much they cost but free is free and I have a few left. :D
It isn't as detailed or informative as Blackstone's services but it's given me the confidence to say that 6-8K miles with synthetic oil is safe for a 617.

Do you think 6-8k is safe even with the stock filtration setup and good (FRAM) filters? Or is the auxillary bypass necessary to keep the soot down.

I know that on our 300D, we put it on Rotella Synthetic, and after over 600 miles the oil is still light enough to see the dipstick through the oil on the stick! :eek: I have never seen this before, all the dino oils I used to use, as well as the Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck, have all been jet black after a few miles or less. The Rotella has "Advanced Soot Control", maybe they really mean it! :dizzy2:

I believe so. The bypass filter can probably let it go longer, but I'm not personally comfortable taking the oil beyond 8,000miles on any passenger car engine.

IIRC, and I have to look at some older results, the OM617 engines loaded about 0.7% soot per 5000 miles.

The 606 or whatever the NA 3.0L 6-cyl used in the w210 is does about half that.

We are doing >10k mi OCIs on the E300D, and I would be very comfortable doing 7500-10k OCIs on a 617.

Will have to see on this 616... I think Ill ru schaeffer's 9000 5w-40.

JMH

bringing this back :

anyone else running a remote oil-filter in there 240/300D?
I've got some clearance issues, and a remote filter setup would be sweet...

thanks

On my 84 300D there is space for a filter between the front Head Light and the Fender Well.
The main 2 issues with installing a bypass Oil Filter are where to tap into the Oil pressure and where to return the Oil back to the Engine.

In my case I tapped a 1/8 inch pipe hole into the center of the Oil Filter Cap. This has 2 advantages; 1-the Oil gets pre-filtered through the upper section of the stock Oil Filter, 2- since the upper section of the Oil Filter is also a bypass Filter there is already a restricted hole drilled in the top of the Oil Filter Tube/Stem so you will not lose any more Oil pressure by drawing your pressurized Oil from there.

Draing the Oil back to the Engine:
On my first set-up I removed the Oil Dip Stick and replace that with a rubber Hose and a section of tubing that the return Oil from the Bypass Oil Filter and clamped it to the Dip Stick Tube. But, this made it a pain to check the Oil as I had to disconnect it.
Later I changed that.
On the side of the block where the Fuel Injection Pump Timer is there is a Bolt. That Bolt goes though the Bolck and stick out into the Timer Chain Area and if for some reason the Timing Chain gets loose it keeps it from jumping off the teeth. But, under normal use that Bolt does not touch the Chaing.
I got another Bolt the same size and drilled it out and added a small length of 1/4 inch tube to it and exchanged it with the Bolt on the Block. So that is were the Oil now returns to the Oil pan.

Although I have changed my Filter set-up I also have a thread. I previously had been using a Baldwin bypass Oil Filter made for use on Carrier Gen Sets that are used on Refer Units. But, I found out it was only a 5 nominal micron Filter.
Look up the definitions of Nominal Micron ratings and absolute mircon ratings and then looke up the newer Beta Ratings.

In the pics below is my current Bypass Oil Filter set-up. The Filter Element is a commercial cotton String wound filter. It is 2 nominal Microns. This is not as good as a 2 absolute micron Oil filter but because I bought a case of Filter Elements the cost was $2.50 per each Element.
I made the Filter Housing myself; making it was a lot of work and I do not think I will be making another one unless I can figure out an easier way to do that.
But, you can see the space available to mount any tupe of filter. My Filter Housing is about 1 foot long and 3 + inches wide.

Here is my old thread:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/215593-bypass-oil-filter-setup-617-952-a.html?highlight=bypass+Oil+filter

There are several Bypass Oil Filters out there. The easiest ones to set-up have Filter elements that cost $25to$30 each range.
With the Amsoil Filter element if you find out what size it is threaded for you can get an inexpensive Filter Base on eBay.
If you tap into the Oil pressure some place other than where I did (in the center of the Oil Filter Cap) you will need to create your own restricted fitting on the inlet or outlet fitting otherwise you will lose too much Oil Volume and most likely Oil pressure also.

rather then tapping lines into the existing oil-filter housing, I was looking for an option that would allow me to relocate the housing or replace it with a more modern spin-on solution :D

found a few examples, please see attached jpgs.

Well, you have found the options.

People who use them are doing so because the Engine is most often going into a non-Mercedes.

With the adapter plates if you want an Oil Cooler Thermostat you would need to add one.

Also the Mercedes Oil Filter Housing has the Oil Filter Bypass Valve built into it.
The highest hot Oil pressure I get on my Engine is 97 psi. I do not know what the Oil Flow volume is.

Someone needs to reasearch which Spin-on Oil filter will work without having that Oil Volume and Pressure opening the Bypass Valve that is built into many Spin-on Oil Filters.

Or use a Hydraulic Filter or an Oil Filter that has no Bypass Valve and hope the Filter Element never gets plugged up.

sounds like the best compromise might be to keep the stock housing, but simply move it to another location.

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...ote_filter.jpg

and you are correct, om617 will be going into my current project :D

http://i41.photobucket.com/albums/e2...ny/merc-05.jpg

Looks like you are almost done!

I have an Amsoil bypass filter, but have yet to install it. It came out of an SD, and the filter housings are slightly different than the D. Supply was tapped into the rear of the panel, with return into the valve cover. I keep waiting on a time to install this, but have other projects in the way.

any chance you can post some additional details on this bypass filter?

pics are also welcomed :D

thanks,
manny

In the attached Diagram I removed Bolt #94 and replaced it with one I had drilled out and installed a tube to act as the Nipple to attatch the drain Hose for my Bypass Oil filter.
That way I did not have to Drill and Tap anyplace else on the Engine.

The guy who started this thread used an Amaoils Bypass Filter.

Yes installing a remote filter is possible.
On my 240d I have a frantz filter installed.

The best place to tap into the oil line is at the input for the oil pressure gauge, the T fitting is hard to find, but it is available from a few places, and there is not need to drill anywhere to find an oil pressure point, the fitting size is 12x1.5 mm, and make sure the T has a hexagon shape otherwise it will not fit.

When working on removing the oil sender hose to install the T, use a nut wrench such as
http://www.harborfreight.com/5-piece-metric-double-end-flare-nut-wrench-set-99993.html
since it is normally very tight.

Here is a link for one place that has the T:
http://www.speedograph-richfield.com/html/oil_pipe_lines.html
the part number is TP6

When installing the 1/8 hole has to face the opposite direction of the MB filter so that you can use a 1/8 x 27 NTP fitting, otherwise a washer on the T may help so that the 1/8 faces a different position.

Since the bypass filter uses a restrictor 1/16" in diameter, the oil pressure gauge will keep working normally.

For the return I use an amsoil swivel fitting, but rubber stops for the hood were a little worn out, and made a little dent on the hood with the swivel fitting, I have replaced the rubber stop for the hood, and the amsoil swivel fitting seems to be working but there is almost no free clearance for the hood, but a better location for the return is probably the valve cover.

checho, so where does the return attach to? Do you have any images of your install?

The Seller of the TP6 T fitting appears to be in the UK not the US.
Is there a US source that you know of?

Since that particular setup is no longer available, I have had one designed with just the two lines to connect a standard filter, and laser cut from 1/4" steel. I am planning on a double filter head that holds two Napa 21515 (or 1773 filters for more capacity). Separate thermostats aren't very expensive, and it's actually cheaper to build and run a remote filter setup with thermostat and aftermarket oil cooler than it is to replace your hoses in most cases.
I have to go with this setup, as my adapter plate runs right across where the oil pressure sender mounts.

Ideas others have used for the Retun Oil from a bypass Oil Filter.

Drilled and tap the Valve Cover as ForcedInduction did in post #30

Amsoil I believe sells Oil Fill Caps that have the return fitting on the cap. However, I do not think they make one specific for Mercedes.

When I fist did mine I removed the Dipstick and had the return Oil going down the Dipstick Tube. It worked and required no drilling but was a pain to check the Oil becaue I had to remove the Hose attachment to insert the Dipstick.
So I relocated the return as in Post #70

I installed an Amsoil bypass filter by tapping into the oil gauge line for the input, the output flows through a braided steel line to the oil pan. I've always been concerned about it because it takes a few seconds before it shows oil pressure on the gauge. I'm thinking of changing the input to tapping into the lid of the oil cannister. I also run Amsoil 15W40 marine diesel oil which has always been a stress reliever.

Love the idea...Have a Frantz, locating fittings...would love to put the clean oil into the pump but aside from my concern with the filter clogging and starving the IP, I only see one oil line from the water pump to the IP...where's the out? or is it the IN that im looking for? I was going to use a T at the pressure sending unit at back of the filter housing for the feed and go into the valve cover for the return.

I would like to see a pic on how you tapped into the Oil Pressure line.

Concerning the Oil Pressure do you have a restricted fitting/orifice/hole any were in the flow of Oil to the Bypass Filter?

That skinny Plastic Line it the Oil Supply Line. The Oil inside of the Fuel Injection Pump drains out through the front of the Fuel Injection Pump.

There is a Plug on the top of the Fuel Injectipn Pump Govenor Housing See the gree circle in the pic.
You will have to find some place else to tap into the Pressurized Oil.

Just like in the previous post you are also going to need a restricted Fitting; easy to make.

Thanks for posting, however that pic is of little help. The only oil in I see comes from the water pump..wouldn't I then have to plug that out put? Still worried about a clogged filter starving the pump...

The Oil Line for the Fuel Injection Pump does not come from the Water Pump. The Water Pump Bearings are Greased and Sealed and need no Oil From the Engine to lubricate them.
The Fuel Injection Pump Oil Line comes out of the side of the Engine Block and is actually closest to the Vacuum Pump.

I am not suggesting that you divert the Fuel Injection Pump Oil Supply through the Bypass Oil Filter and Back into the Fuel Injection pump.

The Plug that I circled in the Pic is not where you would tap into the Oil but an easy place where you can remove that Plug, drill and tap the Plug for a Fitting so that you can return the Oil Back into the Engine.

Over all I believe the best place to tap into the pressurized Oil is the Lid of the Oil Filter; if it is done with care.

[QUOTE=Diesel911;3058948]The Oil Line for the Fuel Injection Pump does not come from the Water Pump. The Water Pump Bearings are Greased and Sealed and need no Oil From the Engine to lubricate them.
The Fuel Injection Pump Oil Line comes out of the side of the Engine Block and is actually closest to the Vacuum Pump. Thats what I meant... :)

I am not suggesting that you divert the Fuel Injection Pump Oil Supply through the Bypass Oil Filter and Back into the Fuel Injection pump. No I didn't think you meant that, I was only looking at a place for return.

The Plug that I circled in the Pic is not where you would tap into the Oil but an easy place where you can remove that Plug, drill and tap the Plug for a Fitting so that you can return the Oil Back into the Engine.
The one in green is where you say drill and tap for a return line?

Over all I believe the best place to tap into the pressurized Oil is the Lid of the Oil Filter; if it is done with care. Why do you feel this is the best place, opposed to say T-ing off the pressure sending unit?


So what you're saying would be to leave the stock supply line to the pump, but run the return from the bypass directly to the pump itself, therefor it's ok if the filter clogs as the pump will have it's regular oil supply anyway? Hmmm I wonder if I can do a T from the return to bathe both the chain and the pump in super clean oil....

[QUOTE=SpecialDelivery;3059222]Yes, you can remove that Plug and put the Plug in a Vice or on a Drill Press to drill and tap it. If for some reason it got messed up another Plug can be had at the Junk Yard Cheap; as opposed to drilling and tapping the Valve Cover as others have done.

You figured out already that if the Filter Plugs and you are returning Oil into the Fuel Injection Pump that it will not interfere with the Oil going into the Fuel Injection Pump.
Nothing wrong with having clean Oil going into the Fuel Injection Pump.

I think you will need to unscrew the Oil Filter Line out of the Oil Filter Housing to understand.

There is no fittings you can buy that I know of that would work as a T. If you find one pass that information on as it would be useful info.

The other way to T into the Oil Pressure line would be to cut the Plastic Tubing. That might seem like a good idea except that the Plastic line has been on there for over 20 years and is likely stiff and brittle. You would be hanging the T fitting from that as well as the weight of the new Hose.

If you plan to T into the Platic Tubing I would say get a new Oil Pressure Line so that it will be flexiable and strong.

The advantage of using the Oil Filter Cap is it is easy to get at and drill through if you take care to miss the Casting Webs inside. Tapping the Aluminum is easy.
If someone manged to mess up the Oil Filter Cap another one can be had at the Junk Yard.
Also a Fitting and Hose connected to the Oil Filter Lid is not likely to fail.

I am so interested in how you did this MOD with taking #94 and using it to return oil to the engine. Can you post picutures? I have not installed the centiruge filter until I find a return port to the engine for the clean oil. Thank you.

You might not be happy with it. I bought another Bolt that was the same length and threads and drilled a 1/4 inch Hole through the Bolt. I have had some 1/4" Stainless Steel Tubing laying around sinc the 1980s.

I roughed up the outside of the Tubing with Sand Paper and degreased the hole I drilled in the Bolt and the Tubing end. When dry I coated them with JB Weld and inserted the Tubing and let the JB Weld Epoxy Cure.

I cut the Tube so it projected out of the Bolt as much as I wanted and used that Bolt+tubing to replace the one on the Engine; afterwhich I attached a 1/4" return Hose to it and a Hose Clamp.
Note: there is no Nipple on the Tubing.
I did not take any pictures that I can remeber and I don't feel like removing it just to take some pictures.

Why I did not used a Fitting with Jags on it.
The smallest Pipe Tap I have is 1/8". That big to be used on the size of Bolt that goes into the Engine which I believe is 12mm.

There is a size Pipe Tap under 1/8". I don't have one and don't know where I could get one at a resonable price and don't know where I could get the Brass Fitting to fit it. Not at the local Hardware Store for sure.

I think a better alternative is to use the Plug shown in the Pic on the Fuel Injection Pump. You can remove it put it in a Vice and Drill and Tap it and I believe it is has a large enough diameter for a 1/8" pipe threads.

If it gets buggered up or just won't work for some reason that Plug ought to be cheap at the Junk Yard.

Using the Plug was someone elses Idea. I wish I had though about it before I installed My Returnline.

Thanks for all your help with this!! I cant wait to do it!

I was thinking of T-ing off the oil pressure sending unit fitting for the supply to the filter...does anyone know the thread size in the filter housing?

I'd rather source the parts before taking my sending unit apart.

BTW for anyone interested in an Oilguard / Raycor... only 3 microns at best?

Toilet Paper Oil Filter Higher Capacity Than Frantz Oil Filter | eBay

Absolute or Nominal Micron?
Also as the Filter Filter stuff that would go down.

After reading up on filtration I have had to change My ideas about it. Filters don't work exactly the way I though the did.

As an example take a Chain Link Fence to represent a Paper Media Element. This particular Fence has Chain Line with 2 inch squares on it.

I can say that the Fence will absolutly filter out anything that is 2+ inches.

But, will it filter out stuff smaller than 2 inches?

If I take a Hand Full of BBs (they are about 0.17 of an inch in diameter and that is way smaller than 2 inches) and throw them at the Fence all of the BBs will not make it through the Fence. Some will hit the Fence and bounce back (in the case of Filter Media the often stick to the media).

If I go to the other side of the Fence and gather up the BBs that made it through the Fence and I repeat the same as above; again some BBs will not make it throuh the Fence

If I keep repeating the whole of the above at some point all of the BBs will not have made it through the fence.

So at that point if the above was an Oil Filter and Oil I would have clean Oil. But, that clean Oil is dependent on the recurculation of the same Oil through the Filters.

What messes the above up is that Your Engine in normal working condition is going to put out X amount of particles.

So that would be like adding some BBs to the ones I pick up on the otherside of the Fence. But, even with the addition of some extra BBs there is going to be a certain level percentage of BBs that are not going to make it throuth the Chain Link.

However, what can happend is some event in the Engine can create a lot of particles that will overwhelm the system and the % of BBs/Particles filtered out will drop.

The above is rather simplistic. Since your Engine has different sized BBs/Particles that would would start restricting the size of the 2 inch Chain Link Holes and that would even block more BBs from getting through raising the percentage of BBs/Particles that do not get through the Filter.

It used to be I changed an Oil Filter with what ever Oil Filter fit and just walked away and never gave it any more thought.

It didn't say, dont matter the item is down now...

I don't think any of the Toilet Paper Element type Filters have ever been tested like the ISO tests done on normal Oil Filters.

And, then what brand of TP you use and how well you are able to stuff it into the Filter is going to make a difference in the Filtration.

However, I believe they must Filter down to close to what they claim.
In any event any of the Bypass Oil Filters that I have read about will filter out a lot of Particles that would cause wear way below the 22-35 Microns of the European made Mercedes Oil Filter for the 617.952s.

In the case of the String Wound Filter that I am using now the claim is 0.5 I assume nominal microns. that is not as good as 1 absolute Micron.
But, I am speaking of a string Wound Filter that cost Me less than $3.00 each when I bought them by the Case (that included the Shipping Cost) compared to a $30 each Amsoil Bypass Oil Filter + Shipping.

So mine is not the absolute best but way more cost effective. The sad part is I was not able so far to come up with an easy way to construct a Filter Housing for them.
I made the one in the Thread that is on the Car and am part way through making another but more important events at Home have kept Me form finishing it.

from what I read the Frantz will go down to .1 of a micron, I assume that meant nominal...absolute is probally not much higher...I can do WMO tests on it once I've got it in.

the elements wefilterit.com sells are some kind of tp...but not so soft as what I prefer for my bottom, and you have to peel some off to get it to stuff into the filter housing....it's a VERY tight fit

the AMSOIL bypass is only 2 micron absolute, which is great...but I think the Frantz will do cleaner...AND it's ALOT cheaper, the filter and the element.


Thanks for the recco on the IP bolt...I think I'm going to run a splitter and do the IP and the chain :)

Someone has been e-mailing me their Filter Project and the found an AN type fitting with Metric Threads on the one end. I had not thought to look into that. It may be that the IP Plug could be replaced by one of those fittings.

I wish I had some way to test Filters Myself.

Grainger has the metric to JIC fitting #16P942 $6.02

This a great idea! I can get WMO tests done for around $25, PM me if you're interested.

Thank you for posting this!! Theres a Grainger just the next town over!

I was speaking of some I wish I had some Test Equipment where you put in X sized Particles and amount of Particles and pumped them with Oil through the Filter and could measure what comes out after it has gone through the Filter.

I have not developed enough interest in the issues involved to have MY Oil tested; or, want the expense.
I figure if I put a Filter on that is calimed to filter down to a nominal 0.5 that it has to be doing some good. even though I cannot prove it.

Ebay also sells some fittings with Metric threads and US type connections on the other end and they often have free shipping.

I had thought to weigh the canister, (or in our case cartridge) empty, then full of oil, then drip drained for 4 hours...then run it and weigh it again....

Pete at Kerma TDI and I had a chat about injectors and fuel filters and reduced exhaust opacity. He might have a lead on how to build what you're talking about...it would be WICKED to have a filter test bench. Very wicked.

any how I thought to share this too..

12mm x 1.50 BANJO BOLT STEEL EA. Banjo Bolts come with 2 pcs. Crush Washer Length Under Head .950" only $10.99 - Banjo Bolts
that's a 12mm x 1.5 banjo bolt....that might be useful in plumbing return of a bypass filter to the bolt hole on the pump.

might have to cut the threads...but still..pretty cool and like i said..MIGHT be useful