By-pass oil filter install
 

This is a pictorial of my work to install a good by-pass oil filter. Being fed up with the very low quality of MB's by-pass "filter" that uses cotton gin waste (The notable exception being the "Made in Turkey" Fram CH2930 which uses tightly wound string), I've decided to install a real filter.

The oil will be Mobil Delvac 1 and the filter will be an Amsoil EaBP90 filter, much like the Frantz and FS-2500 Bypass filters. The filter will add 1 quart to the overall engine capacity and, in theory, will filter out soot.

The source will be a fitting tapped into the oil filter housing, drawing in unfiltered oil. I'll also mount a 0-200psi pressure gauge to see what the actual oil pressure is. The filter and base will be mounted on the fender near the windshield washer tank where the water injection pump currently lives (The WI pump will be moved to the trunk). From the base, the oil will be returned to the valve cover over the timing chain. The metering orifice is built into the filter base.

I left the base at work so I'll post a picture of it on monday.

More to come...

Should do a good job.

A note, though -- Wix filters are wound cord, too.

Peter

Since Rube Goldberg and I are good friends, how about disabling the oil thermostat in the filter housing to get better flow through the aux filter, then add an external thermostat between the aux filter and the oil cooler?

Sixto
93 300SD

The bypass filter has a restriction orifice on it's outlet. It's only a few thousandths in diameter, probably not even 1/16". I'd bet it does not even flow 1gpm at 3bar pressure. The return line going from the filter to the valve cover will have no pressure in it.

Forcedinduction,
Just curious about your choice of the Amsoil unit versus the Frantz and FS-2500 Bypass set ups. Do you feel its better adapted to diesel Mercedes?;)

Cheaper. I got the filter base for $30 from bgkast, I already had all the brass fittings, and a filter from Amsoil is only about $35.

How do you plan to tap into the filter housing? I was thinking about using the oil cooler lines. Is that a bad idea?

The oil cooler lines are a royal PITA to replace, I'm not going to carve them up unless I have no other choice. Not only that, they see no oil flow until the oil is hot because of the thermostat in the base.

I'm just going to drill and tap a 3/8NPT hole into the side of the filter housing. A Brass "T" block will screw into the hole, hold the pressure gauge and a 1/4" barb fitting. An oil hose will goto the filter base and into the filter. The base will also have a petcock on the inlet (before the filters) so that I can take an oil sample with the engine running.

If non of this works out, I can drill and tap the hole for the next size up and plug it.

Is the filter lid too high? It's easier to replace the lid than the housing if you make a mistake.

Dipstick tube might be an option in a 617.

Sixto
93 300SD

The finest solution would be to find a proper T that would thread into the existing tapping for the sending unit. I'm not sure if there is enough space back there and finding a proper adaptor to get to a standard pipe thread might be difficult, but, it eliminates any undesirable modifications to the housing.

Wouldn't there be too much pressure at the sending unit to serve as a return point from the bypass filter? Or do you mean as a source?

Sixto
93 300SD

Yep, I was thinking that the sending unit can provide the source.

Humm, you might be on to something there....
That would also eliminate any possibility of stray metal from the drill/tap process getting where they could do harm and leave room for me to access the back of the injection pump ;) .

I want to use the valve cover as a return because it will have 0 flow backpressure and it will directly lube the timing chain.

This owner used the canister top:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/68198-bypass-filter-300d.html?highlight=no-no

Interesting project - good luck with it.

my question is why?

• have you done used oil analyses and been unsatisfied with the results?
• is the engine longevity you can expect with stock setup not sufficient?
• are you driving a ton and want to do fewer oil changes?

thanks!

My answer is, why not? :D Just like an intercooler, or a VNT turbo, or water/methanol injection, or a 3" exhaust, or manual transmission..... I can do all of that and still get whooped in the 1/4 mile by a stock Toyota Camry V6. I do it because I can and want to. That's the passion I have for these things.....

Also, If it will help my engine run better in the long run and/or help the engine live for a few extra thousand miles, it's paid for itself and worth the effort.

.........by a stock Toyota Camry I-4............:o

:(

Valve cover makes sense. Hopefully the fitting doesn't mind coming apart for valve adjustments. In my case that would be every 3 years :/

How about return through the IP side cover? Give the rack a nice shower of the cleanest oil it'll ever see :)

Sixto
93 300SD

William (MTUpower) did exactly this. He took the supply from one port on the IP and sent the return to another port on the IP. No drilling of the oil filter housing and no upward run from the bottom of the filter to the top of the valve cover. I saw this installation and it's very clean.

That's possible on the 603. But, the OM617 uses a different style IP that does not have a side cover. :(

It's definitely possible on the 617. William did it. I witnessed it.;)

Doesn't the 617 IP have a removable panel where the 603 IP has the RIV port?

Sixto
93 300SD

Not on the older engines.

BUT, you can smoke them out with a screen to slow them down. I do with the leaky turbocharger on my SDL. :D :D :D :D :D

Cleaner oil is better than dirty oil for any mechanical application so why the question as to why? And the explanation that the filters available at a given time may not be sufficient to clean the oil. It just makes good sense since the big industrial applications usually have secondary or bypass filters from the factory. Enough said.:D
Bud

If any vehicle has sufficient oil filtration, I would say it is my MB. It has 10 quarts of oil, and even with a cotton gin waste part it does a darn good job filtering. I would have to put aux. oil filters on several other family cars before I would bother with my car. I also seem to manage to mess up things when I go changing them from stock (ESPECIALLY on the MB), and personally be very leary of adding extra oil hoses that could break, especially with worm style clamps. When you can get 3-500K out of an engine before rebuild, maybe you should just enjoy those miles instead of trying to stretch it. But maybe adding stuff is part of enjoying it for some people.

From Blackstone on my latest 3500 mile sample:
"We found all wear at below average levels and in the correct balance to show normal mechanical parts inside. Silicon at 3 ppm indicates good air filtration while 0.3% level of insolubles shows that the oil filter was working properly. This was 15W40 diesel-use engine oil with no fuel, moisture, or anti-freeze in it. At a total of 252,000 miles, we think this Mercedes still has a lot of life left in it. Nice wearing engine!"

Pictures:
1: Base. The valve and black tube is for taking oil samples.
2: Outlet restriction. 1/32" dia.
3: T-Block, gauge and barb.

I've set a meeting this Saturday to pick up an EaBP90 from a local Amsoil dealer.

Depending on how work goes tomorrow, I should be able to install everything onto the engine/body. I'll just use a brass plug on the feed port instead of the barb fitting until I get the filter.

The Amsoil EaBP90 retails at $35.

mtu, where does the blue line on your ADA go to?

Everything is in place. All I need to do is install the filter, swap the plug for a barb fitting and clamp on the supply line.

1: Hole location under the lid. 1/4NPT fittings.
2: Glycerin filled pressure gauge. On a cold start, it hops right up to 100psi. Cold idle (850rpm @ 85*c) is about 20psi. VIDEO LINK
3: My cluter-Fu** engine bay, erm, I mean rats nest. :D

It's done.

1: Quick flare fitting for easy oil changes.
2: The filter is alot bigger than I had planned, it just barely clears.
3: Return on the valvecover.

Plastic!
 

What? No braided stainless hose?

Jay.

Feel free to donate some cash if you want to see stuff like that in there.

I used what I could afford and what I have will do just as well as steel braided lines.

are you going to start out with clean oil and see how it goes? how long will it stay clear? will this setup clean out black sooty oil?
John

fuel injection line clamps work way better than those screw clamps, and only cost a little bit-20%?- more. that is the style MB uses on their fuel lines. most parts stores stock them. although some employees may not have a clue....

looks good, i am waiting to hear back some results on this. will you/ have you had an Oil anylisis done?

though silly, I dont really like black oil, either.

Thanks for doing this and letting us come along for the ride.

I had an Oilguard on my TDI and am thinking about adding a bypass to my newly acquired '83 once I get it baselined.

Please keep us updated on this project!

Yep. I've got fresh Mobil Delvac 1 and new filters. After 24hours and about 30 miles, the oil is a light gray color.

I've sent in the oil sample from my last oil so we shall see how different it will be this round.

We may be able to compare notes eventually. I'm thinking about a motor guard or frantz.

A few questions.......
 

Forced,

I've got a Frantz unit on the way ($58 for a new filter, no hoses etc.......) a couple quick questions.........

first off, what kind of line did you use? Something that can withstand 100psi obviously! :D

Second, what made you decide to plumb off of the oil filter lid instead of the side of the canister? I'd rather take off the canister so that I don't have to ever disturb the lines again.....

I've got the return hose barb already plumbed in the valve cover right now.........

Also, where did you get your hoses and fittings from?

I used regular hydraulic line from The Parker Store. You should be able to goto a local hydraulic fitting/tubing store, tell them the inside diameter you need, the temperature range (0-300*f), and that it will be used with petroleum based oil.

The following ParkerStore is within 50 miles of your location, based on your ZIP code (49091).

Depatie Fluid Power
6256 American Avenue
Kalamazoo, MI 49003
Phone: 616-324-2850
Fax: 616-324-2870
Approx. distance: 34.4 miles

I used the lid because it's far more easy to replace the lid than the canister if something got fubar'd or the system didn't work. I used a flare fitting so that I can disconnect it with a wrench for oil changes.

Here are the oil analysis results. This is Mobil Delvac 1300 with no bypass filter after 3000miles.

ForcedInduction,

Considering the low cost of this setup with it allowing longer oil change intervals is it cost beneficial considering the added expense of Mobil Delvac 1?

I suspect it is.

I've never seen gray oil from a diesel engine.

I'd love to see a picture of it...

I'm not sure if it would be cost effective for most people.

Dino oil: $9/gal x2
Filter: $14
change 3K miles: $32

Syn oil: $27/gal x2
Filter: $14 (changed twice)
Total: $82

If I go 9k between services, I will have done 3 dino services for $96 total.
If I go 6k between services, I will have done 2 dino services for $64 total.

So somewhere around the 8000mile mark, I will break even between the two.

I don't do it for the cost. It's mostly for easier sub-0*f starts and it's better for the engine.

Is the oil/filter change per mileage rate different on your cars?

The user manual for my '85 300TD states the oil and filter should be changed every 5,000 miles. Are the older MBs 3,000 miles?

I'm going for 8,000-10,000 on this synthetic oil depending on what the oil analysis shows me when I take a sample at 5,000 miles.

5,000 miles might be fine for a new engine, but since most everyone has over 100k miles, 3,000 is better to extend the life of the engine.

FI, can you give is an update to your bypass filtering? Any more oil analysis, any problems?

No problems at all.

I've got my 5000mile oil sample, I just need to get it to the lab. I'll see about doing that on monday.

Finally got the sample results. It took so long because of a mail error.

centrifuge filtration (no more filter elements)
 

FI,

Reportedly this system filters to a tenth of a micron:

http://dieselcraft.com/oilentry.html

It is obviously a little pricier than your set-up, but I was very interested in the idea of not having to pay for replacing filters :cool:

I have a line on an old lab centrifuge, but it is 220V :(

Best,
-Patrick Kennedy

The main problems with those are they take up alot more space than a by-pass filter, must be mounted flat, require an unrestricted gravity return to the oil sump and they need more oil to work than a bypass filter.

Other than that, they filter much more efficiently than any paper filter ever could and pays for itself with no filters.

So did the 5,000 mile OA allow you to continue with the same oil to 8,000-10,000 miles?
I used the turbo diesel truck Mobil synthetic on my last oil change and plan on an analysis at 6,000 miles. In my truck I used the Amsoil 15w-40 with an EA Amsoil filter. I plan on doing an OA on that one at 6,000 as well. Who did you use for the OA?

What is your opinion on the level of soot in the oil when using B99 compared to petroleum diesel?

Chris