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#16
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My answer is, why not?
![]() Also, If it will help my engine run better in the long run and/or help the engine live for a few extra thousand miles, it's paid for itself and worth the effort. |
#17
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Quote:
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#18
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Valve cover makes sense. Hopefully the fitting doesn't mind coming apart for valve adjustments. In my case that would be every 3 years :/
How about return through the IP side cover? Give the rack a nice shower of the cleanest oil it'll ever see ![]() Sixto 93 300SD |
#19
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William (MTUpower) did exactly this. He took the supply from one port on the IP and sent the return to another port on the IP. No drilling of the oil filter housing and no upward run from the bottom of the filter to the top of the valve cover. I saw this installation and it's very clean.
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#20
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Quote:
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#21
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Quote:
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#22
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Doesn't the 617 IP have a removable panel where the 603 IP has the RIV port?
Sixto 93 300SD |
#23
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Not on the older engines.
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#24
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![]() BUT, you can smoke them out with a screen to slow them down. I do with the leaky turbocharger on my SDL. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
__________________
I'm not a doctor, but I'll have a look. ![]() '85 300SD 245k '87 300SDL 251k '90 300SEL 326k Six others from BMW, GM, and Ford. Liberty will not descend to a people; a people must raise themselves to liberty.[/IMG] |
#25
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Cleaner oil is better than dirty oil for any mechanical application so why the question as to why? And the explanation that the filters available at a given time may not be sufficient to clean the oil. It just makes good sense since the big industrial applications usually have secondary or bypass filters from the factory. Enough said.
![]() Bud
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1987 300D Turbo, 175k mi., 1998 BMW 323i Convertible, 1997 F250 4x4 7.3L PSD |
#26
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If any vehicle has sufficient oil filtration, I would say it is my MB. It has 10 quarts of oil, and even with a cotton gin waste part it does a darn good job filtering. I would have to put aux. oil filters on several other family cars before I would bother with my car. I also seem to manage to mess up things when I go changing them from stock (ESPECIALLY on the MB), and personally be very leary of adding extra oil hoses that could break, especially with worm style clamps. When you can get 3-500K out of an engine before rebuild, maybe you should just enjoy those miles instead of trying to stretch it. But maybe adding stuff is part of enjoying it for some people.
From Blackstone on my latest 3500 mile sample: "We found all wear at below average levels and in the correct balance to show normal mechanical parts inside. Silicon at 3 ppm indicates good air filtration while 0.3% level of insolubles shows that the oil filter was working properly. This was 15W40 diesel-use engine oil with no fuel, moisture, or anti-freeze in it. At a total of 252,000 miles, we think this Mercedes still has a lot of life left in it. Nice wearing engine!"
__________________
1985 300D, 237k. 1994 F-350, 6.9 diesel, 5 spd manual, Banks Turbo. 261k. Sold: 1985 300CD- 267K |
#27
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Pictures:
1: Base. The valve and black tube is for taking oil samples. 2: Outlet restriction. 1/32" dia. 3: T-Block, gauge and barb. |
#28
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I've set a meeting this Saturday to pick up an EaBP90 from a local Amsoil dealer.
Depending on how work goes tomorrow, I should be able to install everything onto the engine/body. I'll just use a brass plug on the feed port instead of the barb fitting until I get the filter. |
#29
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The Amsoil EaBP90 retails at $35.
mtu, where does the blue line on your ADA go to? Everything is in place. All I need to do is install the filter, swap the plug for a barb fitting and clamp on the supply line. 1: Hole location under the lid. 1/4NPT fittings. 2: Glycerin filled pressure gauge. On a cold start, it hops right up to 100psi. Cold idle (850rpm @ 85*c) is about 20psi. VIDEO LINK 3: My cluter-Fu** engine bay, erm, I mean rats nest. ![]() |
#30
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It's done.
1: Quick flare fitting for easy oil changes. 2: The filter is alot bigger than I had planned, it just barely clears. 3: Return on the valvecover. |
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