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#1
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W123 propeller shaft clamping nut loose?
I'm in the process of replacing my flex discs while I'm there (replacing a rusted trailing arm is what started it all) and I've taken out the drive shaft. I somehow skipped the step of loosening the clamping nut while removing the drive shaft and was able to remove it nonetheless. Why does the service manual instruct to loosen this nut?? Does it clamp the splined connection together between the two propeller shaft halves and prevent them from moving or coming apart? if so, mine was loose before i started wrenching on the car
![]() My splined connection fell apart while I was removing the whole shaft and luckily there are alignment marks on the two halves. I just hope that the service manual isn't lying when it says "On vehicles starting August 1982 the front and rear propeller shafts are pertinently identified." (41-050, 11) My car was manufactured November 1982 ![]()
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Dave 2002 Audi S6 Avant 1983 300D 1984 300D (sold) 1990 560SEL (sold) |
#2
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If you loosen it, you can shorten the shaft length, making it easier to get it out of the way.
And I've never needed to mark the two pieces, as long as you align the flex discs when you fit it together. Same thing really, but I always forget to match-mark.
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'83 240D with 617.952 and 2.88 '01 VW Beetle TDI '05 Jeep Liberty CRD '89 Toyota 4x4, needs 2L-T '78 280Z with L28ET - 12.86@110 Oil Burner Kartel #35 http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b1...oD/bioclip.jpg |
#3
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I seem to remember the shop manual saying "after drive shaft work let the car down and roll it back and forth a little THEN jack it back up and tighten the shaft nut"
Should have a rubber "boot" covering the spline union. I accidently pull one apart (78) and it wasn't marked ![]()
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![]() 1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#4
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Hmm, I guess mine was loose to begin with. We'll I made the cutoff by 2 months according to the shop manual. I'll see whether the driveshaft wobbles out of the car after I get everything back together
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Dave 2002 Audi S6 Avant 1983 300D 1984 300D (sold) 1990 560SEL (sold) |
#5
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When I did my drive shaft I never touched a clamping nut, of corse I was not following a shop manual though
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1979 240D- 316K miles - VGT Turbo, Intercooler, Stick Shift, Many Other Mods - Daily Driver 1982 300SD - 232K miles - Wife's Daily Driver 1986 560SL - Wife's red speed machine |
#6
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Quote:
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![]() 1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#7
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Quote:
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-diesel is not just a fuel, its a way of life- ![]() '15 GLK250 Bluetec 118k - mine - (OC-123,800) '17 Metris(VITO!) - 37k - wifes (OC-41k) '09 Sprinter 3500 Winnebago View - 62k (OC - 67k) '13 ML350 Bluetec - 95k - dad's (OC-98k) '01 SL500 - 103k(km) - dad's (OC-110,000km) '16 E400 4matic Sedan - 148k - Brothers (OC-155k) |
#8
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Yeah, the cheap walmart pipe wrench is what I used, that and a pair of large ribbed pliers did the trick.
Oh, and i dont think the spline is ever REALLY tight. with the shaft off and all the torque I could put on the bolt, it only barely stayed in one place when I pulled it. I think that may be an additionall bit of stress relief on the shaft. Just loose enough to give if necessary. my $.05 (inflation)
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Paul 2004 E500 4matic; 72,000mi |
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