Howdy,

I need a Mercedes Benz part #....if possible....fpr the little plastic piece mentioned in the following post from another thread....

I phoned Phil....he agrees that it is a replacable part, but he cannot get it...

MB Dealership in Parkersburg says that the only thing they can get is the whole "Locking Eyelet"....for $86.00

So, if I had a part #......

Quote:Originally Posted by Shorebilly
G'mornin' Folks,

I'm glad that you brought this up.....have been considering ordering a new stryker from Phil....and changing out my drivers door stryker.

My drivers door has begun to not latch unless I give it a very firm tug/slam...from inside...or a sharp push/slam from outside....upon inspection, I noticed that there is a little piece on the lower edge of the stryker...this piece is missing/broken on my drivers door, but intact on the others....it appears that a part of the latching mechanism contacts this little piece and causes it to rotate to the latched position.....I don't know how long this part has been broken, but it has managed to dig a small indentation into the rubber....along the bottom edge of the stryker.....I "think" that this is my problem....

Was considering filling the indentation with some sort of epoxy...JB Weld or something......has anybody done this?? Or is there a cheap and easy fix??

A new stryker from Phil is $36.92 plus shipping....

Now.....if/when I get to replacing the stryker.....are the attachment screws loctighted in?? If so...will a little heat free up the threads??

I have not checked, but am wondering....is there an adjustment involved in the replacement of the stryler.......or is the stryker in a fixed position??

Thanx a bunch,
SB

the little plastic ramp on the striker is replaceable, I do not know where to get them though. possibly from the dealer. YES the striker is very adjustable, if you do not have dirt in the door jamb, DEFINITELY mark the striker's position on all sides before you loosen it. and heat would be nice, if you could get it on the plate inside the door... you cannot.
John

Thanx again,
SB

__________________

Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
'58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG

Part numbers for the door latch bits on the B-pillar are:

123 720 01 04 - left door locking eye, $18 list 5 years ago
123 720 02 04 - right door locking eye

116 723 02 11 - plate (has the same footprint as locking eye), $1 5 list years ago

116 637 00 11 - plate (outboard of locking eye), $2 list 5 years ago

Looks like the latch in the door is one unit based on the EPC.

I'd try an impact wrench before heat.

Sixto
93 300SD

replaced mine (77300D) last year nuts not tight (bought door lock before I realized it was the striker/catch. just shims behind the lock.
Ron

Folks,

I'm referring to a little plastic piece that protrudes toward the door on the lower edge of the striker/locking eyelet assembly.....if I was certain that I could remove one from another door without breaking it....would do so....at present do not have a parts car to play with....

Note: Parts counterman at MB Dealership in Parkersburg, WV told me that he had been there as a mechanic and as a parts guy for 18 years and had never changed nor ordered one...talking about the entire "Locking Eyelet"....and said he could not find any sub assembly parts for the "Eyelet"

SB

__________________

Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
'58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG

G'mornin',

Yesterday, I dug out the remains of the "Plastic Ramp" from the "Locking Eyelet" for the drivers door, and took a photo.....the second photo.....

And I attempted to remove the "Plastic Ramp" from the right rear passenger door (least opened door)......I got the majority of it, but it did break.....but now I know a bit more about this item....first photo...

They are different, right from left......they have a radius to match the metal frame of the "Locking Eyelet" front side.....and are square on the other side....

So there should be 2 part numbers.....left and right.....now I hope to find a number for each side......

I also managed to modify and glue the remains of the "plastic ramp" from the right rear passenger door. into the "Locking Eyelet" of the drivers door.

I then fabricated a replacement for the rear passenger door, from a hard rubber shipping holder...removed from a ceiling fan that I recently installed in my shack.....it looked good, and we will have to wait and see if these temporary repairs hold up......

Still want the part numbers associated with the plastic piece in the first photo.......





Thanks a bunch folks.....
SB

__________________

Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
'58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG

anyone ever find that door latch ramp part number...my driver front door needs one

someone mentioned a screw that they inserted into the area and it performed the same function...any pics?...here's the post help, stuck at work with door not closing

great pics of the tab are also seen here...
Door won't shut all the way. Fix and pix.....

I dug out the remaining plastic/rubber bits and took a Home Depot wood paint stir stick and fashioned a new insert

I had to trim about a 1/8 inch on the width, stuck it in the hole, used the tiny hole on the bottom of the plate, inserted a small wood screw, marked off about a 1/4 inch or so on the stick, scored it and snapped it off. You have to be careful not to shove the stick to far in to where it interferes with the hook that latches in from the bottom.

Result......works perfect

About an hour later I found a real nice used striker plate with a beautiful ramp in my parts bin I am going to leave the wood enhanced one in until it fails.

I stopped by an indie MB/BMW/etc shop in Hilton Head, Sea Island Auto Service 843-681-8433, on Sat to meet the owner, Bill Moore (nice guy), and he used an epoxy mixture, let it harden and then trimmed and shaped the ramp.