A heat-release loctite seems silly to me on a brake component. Those things get hot enough to warp rotors!

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Paul
2004 E500 4matic; 72,000mi

Howdy All,

I was concerned about removing the allen bolts.....you know, because one never knows what one will find on these older previously owned autos (used carz).....

Well my car's brake rotor allen bolts were "never siezed" in,..... the silver colored anti-seeze compound.....

They came out quite easilly.....obviously.....

Put them back with locktite......those new applicators are really neat.....but I think they are a bit more like lipstick, or chapstick....rather than roll on deodorant......

SB

Brakes are way better now.....no pulsations.....smoooootttttthhhhhhhh!!!!!

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Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
'58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG

If your replacing calipers and rotors go ahead and upgrade to the SD's they are vented.

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

I'm changing a front caliper and the front rotors on my 1983 300SD. I've done a search about doing the front breaks and I think I have it down. I have already had the calipers off of the hub before after removing pads, spring clips snesore wire etc so I no how to do this much. I actually have to replace one of the brake calipers and both front rotors though. My questions are does the break hose just ubolt from the caliper? Also, to pull the rotors, do I just pull the center hubs on the rotor and then unscrew the nut in there? Also, when I replace them, is there any special procedure or do I just put them back on and go? I do not have a large variety of tools so I would really like to be fully aware of what the job entails before I get going on it. Also should I buy a pair of new rubber hoses for the front two calipers while I am at it? any help appreciated.

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W126 1983 300SD 286,000 miles and ticking
Baby blue exterior Grey MB tex
Recent work:
Replaced air cleaner mounting brackets and heat shields
Replaced alternator, fan and power steering belts
Replaced positive battery terminal
Replaced negative battery terminal and cord
New Duralast Battery

My car needs work.

The brake hose unthreads from the caliper. You can break it loose from the caliper and unthread the caliper from the hose. Or, properly you can unthread the upper end from the hard line (you must do this to replace the hose). This process is a bit dicey because the fitting tends to bind over the years. You properly need a flare wrench for the smaller nut (on the line), but, I've gambled and won with open end wrenches. Understand........if you round off the nut.......you've got a whole lot more work ahead of you to fix it.

To pull the rotor, the retaining nut is unthreaded from the spindle and the entire rotor assembly pulls right off. Be prepared to catch the outer bearing, which will fall out onto the pavement if you're not paying attention.

With the rotor off, you should definitely consider removing the inner bearing, cleaning both bearings thoroughly, repacking the bearings, and reinstalling the inner bearing with new grease seal. This has probably been neglected for well over 100K miles and it's definitely due.

If the rubber hoses are original, you should be replacing them. However, rounding the nuts off is the worst possible scenario........so.......avoid that at any cost.........even to the point of reusing the old hoses.

your didnt turn the rotors are you?

what ... your brakes pulsed also.. mine too.. wonder what it is

yep the old 'skid lid' .. prayers from here to your friend.

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1984 300D Turbo - 231k....totalled 11/30/07 RIP

G'mornin',

To the best of my knowledge, my 300D sat (and rarely moved) for about 5 or 6 years....2000 thru 2006.....there were high spots on the brake discs where they had not rusted under the pads/calipers......as I drove the car, this condition caused the pulsation in the brakes to get worse the more I drove.

When I first got the car, the right rear brake was dragging....ordered a set of
rear pads from local NAPA...got front pads....kept those, and reordered, and got the rear pads.....so now I had a full set of brake pads.....took car to my local tire guy.....had tires balanced, and changed out all brake pads while he had car on the lift.......about 1000 miles later I changed all of the brake fluid.....pulsation was worstening......

I decided not to turn the rotors......but to replace them....front only.....so far!

The new rotors/discs have improved my braking experiences...big time....

Another big plus from this brake rotor job is the fact that I cleaned/inspected/repacked front wheel bearings (replaced the seals, and one bearing set)...now my front wheels/brakes are good to go for a coupla years!!

SB

__________________

Diesels:
'85 300D, "Max, Blue Benz", 155K, 27.0 MPG
'84 190D 2.2, "Eva, Brown Benz", 142K, 40.2 MPG
'77 240D (parts car)
'67 Eicher ES 202 Tractor "Otto" (2cyl, Air Cooled, 30HP)
Gassers:
'94 Ford F-150, "Henry", 170K (300 Six) 17.5 MPG
'85 190E 2.3, 148K....Parts Car
'58 Dodge W300M Powerwagon (Flat Fenders) Less than 10 MPG

Thanks BC. I take it I should get a new grease seal in order tot repack the bearings.

__________________
W126 1983 300SD 286,000 miles and ticking
Baby blue exterior Grey MB tex
Recent work:
Replaced air cleaner mounting brackets and heat shields
Replaced alternator, fan and power steering belts
Replaced positive battery terminal
Replaced negative battery terminal and cord
New Duralast Battery

My car needs work.