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FM100 pre-filter upgrade: easy install, adds water seperation, inexpensive...
Overview: this upgrade addresses the concern some have over the absence of a fuel/water separator in 123s, and adds an excellent pre-filter that should increase both the final filter’s efficiency and life.
Top View (install details follow): http://sustainablepower.net/MB/FM100/1.jpg Parts: Stanadyne FM100 30 micron pre-filter water seperator assembly (3/8" NPT ports) go to www.reliableindustries.com or call 800-693-4583, order part#33641 - LINK for a measely $32.68 other parts you'll need:
the install: 1. assemble all brass fittings on the filter head. 2. attach the short section of hose to the intake and the in-line pre-filter 3. mount filter drill 2 5/16" holes insert 1-1/4 bolts from the back, put a little permanent locktite (red) on the first 1/4 inch of exposed threads, then tighten down nuts over the locktite against the sheetmetal (this creates your filter mounting posts), then add flat washers, filter head, flat washers, self-locking nuts http://sustainablepower.net/MB/FM100/4.jpg 4. attach remaining fuel hoses 5. pre-fill FM100 with a good fuel additive (unscrew large black filter assembly cap by hand and pour additive in). 6. prime system with OEM hand pump 7. drive - you're done! additional images: http://sustainablepower.net/MB/FM100/2.jpg in-line's already catching crud: http://sustainablepower.net/MB/FM100/3.jpg Clear Bowl Water Reservior Option: you can see in the pics that i have an additional clear bowl water reservior installed. this is an easy screw-on option - part#29899 $26.96 from reliable. i happened to have this one already, so i installed it but it's hard to view so i will probably leave it off when i replace the filter. FM100 water removal efficiency: http://sustainablepower.net/MB/FM100/h2o_removal.jpg |
Very nice install!
Any idea what the filter elemnts cost? |
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the 4.3" element that comes with the assembly is part#31865 - $11.17 a 6.0" replacement element is part#31869 - $13.06. i will probably go with the 6.0" when i replace the filter since it should last even longer. FWIW - i have a FM100 installed as the final filter on my VW TDI and did this writeup: http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=1121994 cheers! |
Nice install. Thanks for posting! Are you going to put in the drag-pointer restriction gauge on your 123, too, like on your VW? And if so, please post up your WOT restriction numbers so we can all be lazy. ;)
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Nice! Too bad that corner of my bay is so cluttered already....
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And, if you go with the 6" replacement filter restriction will be even less... Cheers! |
Does anyone know the filtration micron size of the stock MB filter(s)?
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R, nice pictures and write-up !! Why is there so much crud in that pre-filter?? Did that car sit a long time?
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Doesn't the filter on VW diesels have a water separator built-in? It probably wouldn't be as stout as the setup you installed but would probably be a lot cheaper to just grab the filter assembly from an old diesel VW.
Edit: Just read this: Quote:
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http://sustainablepower.net/MB/FM100...efficiency.jpg Quote:
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stock A4 VW TDI fuel filters do have a water seperator, BUT, the filtration efficiency is no where near as good as a FM100 5-micron. for example: OEM = 58% at 3-5 micron; FM100 5-micron: 92% at 2-micron, 95% at 5-micron, 95%+ of emusified water and 98% of free water. replacing the FM100 (~$14) elements is cheaper (and much easier) than replacing VW A4 OEM filters ($29). cheers! |
R:
I am very curious to see how much water you capture. I'll be checking in with you periodically :D
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Excellent! I’ll add that to my list of things to do.
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Here's some interesting reading regarding the type of micro-emulsion that Total/Elf, Primrose and FPPF additives use: Quote:
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FWIW - i have a CAT fluids analysis lab just down the road from both my home and office. oil analysis can help you determine and take actions to minimize engine wear. providing your engine with clean fuel and clean air greatly enhances your oils ability to perform optimally - and do so for an entire extended drain interval. this of course results in better performing, longer wearing engines. knowing this, i never take shortcuts regarding fuel and air filtration. [re: clean air, i recently discovered that the Hengst air filters have probably double the filtration area (twice as many pleats) as the Purolator 123 filter available at my local auto parts chain.] cheers! |
Very interesting, I've been wondering about options for water separation systems. Thanks for the great writeup. Once I've got the 300D back on the road, I'd love to catch up and take a look at what you've got.
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Nice setup.. I might have to buy that as a Christmas gift to the Mercedes.
so far the car is getting about 80% of my christmas wish list :) |
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cheers! |
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even using other additives though, a water seperator is great insurance because multipurpose diesel fuel additives only have the ability to remove a very small amount of water. they're designed to address the water that enters fuel through condensation in your vehicles tank. so, if you run into a fuel source that's significantly contaminated, no multipurpose fuel additive is going to prevent the water from getting to your fuel injection system - but a FM100 probably will. also, aside from the FM100s water seperation capability, this is an excellent pre-filter. using a high quality pre-filter will result in cleaner fuel making it to your MBs fuel injection system. clean fuel causes less wear, burns more thoroughly and introduces fewer contaminants into your oil so your engine should function optimally longer. cheers! |
Agreed. No additive is capable of removing a large slug of water should that be encountered. I think Stanadyne would be one of the better choices permitting the separator to do the best job possible in a mobile environment (moving/shaking/mixing).
Do any of the other mainstream additives cause water to fall out? Most of the additives I'm familiar with attempt to remove water from the system. Thx. |
Fleetguard Filters
For anyone that may have a Permacool setup, such as they sell thru JC Whitney, I've found a Fleetguard replacement for the filter.
Looking thru their catalog supplement on line, I came across the FS1204, which is listed as a replacement for the Permacool B1000, the filter included in their kits. On a side note, at least for an '87 300D Turbo, oil filter LF3584, secondary fuel filter FF5373, and for anyone interested in setting up a coolant filter (regardless of model), WF 2077 coolant filter and 204163S mounting head. |
Water seperator
Stanadyne kits available through **************.com. I have been utilizing these folks for a few years, they are prompt, and knowledgeable. I use the short filter, keep a spare in he trunk, due to room constraints. These kits contain all neccessary mounting hardware, and instructions.
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cheers! |
It's Working!!
just though i'd report that the FM100 30 micron pre-filter water seperator IS WORKING!!
here are some views of the water it has removed from my fuel since installed ~2 weeks ago. remember that with just a stock setup our IPs, injectors, etc are having to deal with this... http://www.usta-va.com/rob/MB/DSCN0478.JPG http://www.usta-va.com/rob/MB/DSCN0479.JPG cheers! Quote:
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Thanks.
Nicely done, and a good follow up. Does the teflon tape hold up? I tried it on some fittings that I use on my veggie oil filtering station, and it promptly disintegrated. Veg oil is a bit nastier in some respects then diesel, so at full dino you might not have a problem for a long while.
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re: teflon tape - i'm not sure what to tell you because from my experience it should work fine for veg filtering... since i've taken ownership of the MB it's been fueled exclusively with biodiesel (roughly B40), the teflon taped FM100 setup on my VW has also been used exclusively with biodiesel (B33 to B100) - both are leak free. my understanding and experience is that teflon tape is perfect for petro and bio/veg fueling applications. loads of people instruct the use of teflon in veg oil to biodiesel processors, here's just a few that came up googling "biodiesel teflon tape": http://www.homegrownfuels.net/services.htmlhope you find something that works. cheers! |
Is it heated?
will us northern folks be able to use it? |
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cheers! |
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I just purchased one and will do the install according to your directions. Great write up. Only problem is I did not pay attention to the filter, so the stock 150 microns is being shipped. Still, including shipping, total came to $52 from the company you listed the link for.
Thanks for all the great info! |
I installed one of these and feel much better about my fuel system.
Super easy, and affordable as well. I think i'll check to see which micron rating filter I got though. :confused: Thanks a bunch for the write-up! In my installation though I used 2 3/8-1/4" bushings and 2 1/4"- 5/16 90 degree hose fitting, which did away with 2 brass fittings and worked fine as far as I can tell. :) |
I'm glad this post bubbled up to the surface! Coming from the 'better safe than sorry' club, I'll definitely be doing this install.
Thanks, SUNRG. Great write up & pics, too! |
filter
Thank you for referring me to this filter. I purchased one and I purchased the 150W heater that you install in the housing. Add a 12v fuel pump & injector line heaters and that should be enough to run 100% veggie oil through. I'll try it and see if it works good. Should extend for a long time the life of my primary, and secondary stock filters on a single tank system.
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Is water in the fuel a concern with diesel fuel? I believe most gas pumps now have a hightech filter at the pump to remove water. If you put on the gas cap and it seals then is their any reason to worry about water in the fuel?
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I think stations and distributors make some attempts to separate water prior to dispensing in your fuel tank. I don't know how serious these efforts are. Problem is, condensation builds up and there isn't much you can do to halt that. SUNRG is on the right track with this on-board separation system. I had a similar system installed on a new Olds diesel I had (years ago) at the strong recommendation of the factory mechanic I used. Much to my surprise, the separator was catching water all the time. Granted, it wasn't a lot, but it was ever-present. I think the unit was mfd by Stanadyne and it had a clear glass site bowl making inspection quik 'n' e-z. |
It is impossible to have fuel that is "too clean". Additional filtration can only help to prolong the life of injection components and increase ability to remove water before it gets to the injection components and does damage. My Chevy has a water drain on the factory filter housing and it produces some water every time I drain it. I fail to see why MB did not offer this. RT
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I did it too
I made pretty much the same modification after first reading this thread, but I used a Goldenrod Water Block spin on filter from Northern Tool.
IIRC, less than $20 for the unit with a filter and then less than $10 for a spare filter. If nothing else, a little peace of mind. If there's any down side it's that I now have another spare filter to carry around with me. |
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All the Japanese diesel engines commercial or domestic come with water separator, I have installed a seperate Bosch seperator from day one I owned my vehicle, don't regret it, 75000 miles and engine is smoke free with 1/4 turn start in any weather.
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I'm at work and I can't post a pic today, but here's how I did it:
I mounted the unit to the fender so it sits a little behind and above the glow plug reley. I fabricated my mounting bracket out of some heavy duty plastic with the help of a sabre saw and a heat gun. Somethng out of metal may be better, but this is what I was able to do at the time with what I had on hand. The unit just sits in a cut out in the plastic. This allows me to slide the unit and filter out of the bracket should I want to for any reason. The unit I got has 1" inlet and outlet. I had to use a brass fitting that is barbed at one end to accept the fuel line and is 3/4" male thread at the other end. This threads into a PVC bushing that is 3/4" female to 1" male. The bushing then goes into the filter head. I ran fuel line from the plastic pre-filter to the waterblock and then continued the fuel line out of the other side of the waterblock onto the pump. I did this install at the beginning of December and I don't have any complaints yet. |
Veggie filter
I recently installed the FM100. It was extremely efficient at filtering the diesel from everything else. The SVO collected in the bowl, plugged the filter and starved the engine from fuel:behead: . There was no water in the collection bowl, only veggie oil! All of the fuel was water filtered in the garage using a goldenrod before going in the tank (I had drained the tank in order to replace the fuel lines, so 100% of the fuel was de-watered and well filtered)
Any one have this happen to them? I have sent an email to the company asking for clarification, with no response. |
I just got mine yesterday. $58 total, including shipping. I did get the 150 micron filter, so I will change that out. But, for the $58, that included the water bowl at the bottom of the filter. Now to get the bolts, fittings and fuel lines...an install!
The filter does say diesel fuel only. I do not think this will work with WVO, but it should work with Bio diesel. |
Stanadyne Response
Here is a response from the manufacturer about using Veggie oil, and thermostat settings:
QUOTE... Without more knowledge of the problem it’s difficult to say what could have happened. However here are some generic statements that can be said: 1. Vegetable oil fuels have well documented issues with quality, stability, oxidation, water absorption, cloud point and point pour deficiencies. With that in mind my first guess would be the problem stemmed from the quality of the fuel he is adding. Especially at 80% content, I would not trust the reliability of the fuel. 2. The filter media is not capable of separating DF2 from vegetable oil fuels therefore the separation process would have definitely begun prior to coming into contact with the filter paper. My guess is the vegetable oil fuel began to gel or become too viscous to flow thru the media, whereas the DF2 with the proper additive packages for stability and temperature resistance would not have began to gel and was still able to flow. 3. Furthermore, is he adding our filter to the existing filter on the car? The increased pressure loss of a redundant filter has the potential to create fuel restriction problems if not installed correctly for the application. Regardless of any fuel gelling problems, any improperly design filter system has potential for some problems. I would recommend if he has any questions to talk to one of our applications engineers. 4. As far as the heater goes, the thermostat is not capable of being changed since it is built into the heater and will automatically regulate itself. Depending on what heater he has here are the following on/off temperature cycles. a. 100 Watt heater: On at 58˚F, off at 85˚F b. 150 Watt heater: On at 42˚F, off at 75˚F ...END QUOTE |
I wonder if there is a Goldenrod equivalent...
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Has anybody tried using this filter for 100% Waste Vegetable Oil? Thats what I bought it for. I would like to hear some feedback before I install it.
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Some Pics
3 Attachment(s)
Here’s the pictures that were requested of the filter I used along with the install. Nothing fancy, but maybe a little more protection.
Sorry it took me so long to post the pics. Attachment 40416 Attachment 40417 Attachment 40418 |
Anyone gonna hook one of these up on an E300?
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I have read the thread but still unclear on one question.
How do you know when adding this extra filter the added resistance is not going to cause the injection pump to suffer? I guess it is kinda when your filter get clogged and you have to change them cause there is too much restriction and enough fuel does not get to the injection pump.Is driving around constantly with the added resistance going to cause anything to go out faster? like the injection pump? |
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I installed this on my car on Saturday so I can run bio diesel as well. I do not know about WVO capabilities on this.
I have put 500 miles on it so far, so good. |
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