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  #16  
Old 12-07-2006, 10:58 AM
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I see that it is too late, but rear control arm bushings are not that hard to do solo. there are several threads on this. i hope that fixes your problem.
one thing you need to work under your car is good jack stands. oh- and a good jack.

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  #17  
Old 12-10-2006, 11:39 AM
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an update with additions...
took car to shop so I would not drive and possibly do more harm.here is what is going to be done...

rear control arm bushings
sub-frame mounts(while they are accessible)
engine mounts(one bad,may as well do both now)
checking timing and valve lash

anybody have a rough idea at what this might all approach in cost.I know that one control arm at least will be difficult if that changes things.
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  #18  
Old 12-10-2006, 01:44 PM
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You said you took the Drive shaft apart and put it back together without regard to the alignment marks. Unless you were very lucky and happen to hit the right spot, this could be an issue.
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
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  #19  
Old 12-10-2006, 05:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevo View Post
You said you took the Drive shaft apart and put it back together without regard to the alignment marks. Unless you were very lucky and happen to hit the right spot, this could be an issue.
Not "without regard"...there were no marks to be seen.maybe the PO did it w/o regard.I looked and saw nada.driveshaft looked very new though,not a speck of rust of any sort and no marks or apparent damage...
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  #20  
Old 12-10-2006, 06:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rebreath View Post
Not "without regard"...there were no marks to be seen.maybe the PO did it w/o regard.I looked and saw nada.driveshaft looked very new though,not a speck of rust of any sort and no marks or apparent damage...
Oh, sorry, didn't mean to imply "negligence" for not finding marks that weren't there, Sometimes there not there. You shoulda marked it yourself tho I pulled one apart without marking it, other folks have, "we learn by doing".
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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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  #21  
Old 01-12-2007, 09:16 AM
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Angry an update ....

since my last post i have had to move to syracuse.Ont he way several things have happened.for those that remember,I was having some sort of driveline vibration that was and still is a mystery.pulled shaft and found a bum u-joint.had to replace entire shaft as they are non-serviceable except to the most extensive shops.at the same time had sub-frame mounts,engine mounts,rear control arm bushings replaced.had suspension checked and they visually inspected rear wheel axles and boots over c/v joints.had wheels checked for balance and fixed any that were not right.All went without a hitch.got on highway to move(see above) got about 1 hour north of pittsburgh and suddenly vibration is back!!.pull to shoulder and stop.as we are stopping I notice a rhytmic metallic sound(in time with rotation of wheel).stop.This has worked in the past.not this time.had to reverse for a small ways and all was back to normal.back on highway and about 45 mins later same thing.a day and a half later we got to syracuse,had to drive 45 mph and stop a LOT!!obviously I need help figuring this out.could it be something in the diff?At the shop where they did my control arm bushings they drained and visually inspected it.All appeared ok.A friend of mine thinks that it is something broken in the limited slip system;due to these facts...
1-must drive for a while.initially it was about six hours,now about 45 mins or so.
2-reversing seems to remedy prob for a while.
3-and what else is left under there!!!

And,as if that is not enough.it thawed last night in syracuse and now both passenger and driver front footwells are completely soaked.correct me if I am wrong,but isnt that a sign of a hole in the drains below the wipers?If so,how do I remove the wipers and grills underneath them?
Anybody know any good shops in the syracuse area.Or someone with a garage in syracuse.I do not have anywhere to work up here and it is to snow again soon.any and all help is greatly appreciated.oh and happy new year!
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  #22  
Old 01-12-2007, 10:56 AM
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I would seriously consider one of the rear axels. Most other things that could be the causitive agent are either constantly good or constantly bad. Those cv joints are kind of notorious for intermittencies until they become constant problems eventually. You might get under the car and push and pull the shafts laterally to see if one has a lot more movement than the other. I assume the axel boots had no leakage when at the garage or they would have spotted that. Your getting rid of the noise temporarily by backing up was interesting. Also a good way to drop a ball out of a well worn cv joint sometimes. I cannot also not recall any other part in the area you are looking into going clunk, clunk, clunk, unless almost totally broken at low speed. Changing one axel from a junkyard source is not a big expensive deal either yourself if you can get some indication of the affected side. Since you have just moved why not try to find a site member in your area? At the least he may be able to steer you away from the local bandits. If not generally give you some direct assistance. Again I never bet on anything but if I did the odds on a bad axel cv joint in your case are pretty fair.. Once you go through a few failing cv joints on a lot of cars you will understand where I am coming from. Cv joints can be somewhat devious at times in my opinion.

Last edited by barry123400; 01-12-2007 at 11:09 AM.
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  #23  
Old 01-12-2007, 11:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by barry123400 View Post
I would seriously consider one of the rear axels. Most other things that could be the causitive agent are either constantly good or constantly bad. Those cv joints are kind of notorious for intermittencies until they become constant problems eventually. You might get under the car and push and pull the shafts laterally to see if one has a lot more movement than the other. I assume the axel boots had no leakage when at the garage or they would have spotted that. Your getting rid of the noise temporarily by backing up was interesting. Also a good way to drop a ball out of a well worn cv joint sometimes. I cannot also not recall any other part in the area you are looking into going clunk, clunk, clunk, unless almost totally broken at low speed. Changing one axel from a junkyard source is not a big expensive deal either yourself if you can get some indication of the affected side. Since you have just moved why not try to find a site member in your area? At the least he may be able to steer you away from the local bandits. If not generally give you some direct assistance. Again I never bet on anything but if I did the odds on a bad axel cv joint in your case are pretty fair.. Once you go through a few failing cv joints on a lot of cars you will understand where I am coming from. Cv joints can be somewhat devious at times in my opinion.
my only c/v exp is on a front wheel drive honda civic.only noticed when you turn.
what amount of lateral play is acceptable?unacceptable?
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  #24  
Old 01-12-2007, 11:32 AM
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You are not trying to actually measure the play. Just trying to see if one side has obviously more end play than the other. The distance of side axel slide that is. I suspect the right side of the car in your case by the way. My understanding is the right cv joints work a little harder for a living over time. But that does not introduce absolute certainty it is going bad. I also have to wonder if there is enough lubricant in the outer cv joint as you have to drive quite awhile to get the symptom on the highway. Again I feel you have replaced any other possible causes already that I can think of. I might take the inner clamp off the boot on the outer joint and inject about about three ounces of oil into the boot with a syringe and install a new clamp. Unfortunatly if it is the joint some damage is already present in there. If it was getting noisey because of lack of lubrication this might help identify it as the problem. It would dissapear for quite awhile if not indefinatly. If so I would then still change the axel for reliabilitys sake. Things in general are a lot cheaper to deal with when under your control. Versus a highway breakdown with the tow truck, no control of who fixes the problem mind the unexpected loss of time.

Last edited by barry123400; 01-12-2007 at 11:38 AM.
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  #25  
Old 01-12-2007, 11:46 AM
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I would concur w/the rear axle diagnosis. My '85 300cd did the same thing--intermittent knocking sounds and vibration that were both speed- and throttle-related. And it had recently had its carrier bearing replaced, as well. I'm now in the process of waiting for the 2nd axle to be rebooted by a local race shop. The suspect (right-side) axle was finished, the boot torn thru about 270 degrees of its circumference, although it doesn't sound as though you noted that problem on yours.

If you decide to go that route, do a search on "axle replacement"...Jeremy5848 did an excellent write-up on it.
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  #26  
Old 01-12-2007, 12:55 PM
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I drove to France once in my old Scirocco, coming back a knocking started, i slowed down, had a look couldn't find anything wrong and continued, it came back, this time worse, i was on the motorway doing 15mph! it was impossible to go any faster the noise was so bad. pulled in to a car park.
shook the wheels to see if there was any play, but none i could notice. tested in the carpark and it seemed okay. continued on my journey slowly going faster and faster and faster, and it never returned again to the day i sold the car.
i can only think that it was something to do with the ball race in the wheel bearing, moving slightly or a foreign object in there, or something, but it went as mysteriously as it had arrived.
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  #27  
Old 01-12-2007, 04:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stumbler View Post
I drove to France once in my old Scirocco, coming back a knocking started, i slowed down, had a look couldn't find anything wrong and continued, it came back, this time worse, i was on the motorway doing 15mph! it was impossible to go any faster the noise was so bad. pulled in to a car park.
shook the wheels to see if there was any play, but none i could notice. tested in the carpark and it seemed okay. continued on my journey slowly going faster and faster and faster, and it never returned again to the day i sold the car.
i can only think that it was something to do with the ball race in the wheel bearing, moving slightly or a foreign object in there, or something, but it went as mysteriously as it had arrived.
I have had such an expirence running tugboats, something hung up in the propeller shaft
You maybe had something hung up and then lost it. chicken, Huggy, whatever

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1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K
1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild
1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K
1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor
2014 Kubota L3800 tractor
1964 VW bug

"Lifes too short to drive a boring car"
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