|
|
|
|
|
#1
12-04-2006, 06:30 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
glove compartment door won't stay shut?
Hi,
Another problem bugging me for the last 6mo or so: my glove compartment door will pop open seemingly at random (though usually when driving over bumps in the road or poor pavement). Locking the door doesn't help. The hook seems OK, it's not chipped as far as I can tell, so I presume something in the latch mechanism is loose or de-sprungified? 
|
|
#2
12-04-2006, 06:32 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
what type of car do you have?
Put your car type in your signature so we can know.
If you will open your glove compartment you can see four or more screws. If you will remove them you will be able to take off the plastic cover and see the actual lever. Something might be broken in there to allow it to open like that. I am fixing one on mine right now.
__________________
1979 240d 216k (W123) Daily Driver Volvo 245DL 210k 1979 300D FOR SALE 2002 Tahoe 91k FOR SALE 1980 300sd 177k (W116) Sold 1980 300sd Parts (W116) Junked 1979 240D 121k (W123) Sold 1982 300TDT 298K (W123) (Sold)
|
|
#3
12-04-2006, 08:02 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I know this sounds odd, but check the wood trim.
I've had recent problems of the glove box door sagging. If you pull the two screws to the right, then loosen the four screws behind the latch handle you should be able to work it free without major disassembly. What I found was that one of the spacer blocks had detached from the back of the wood trim. When I glued it with gorilla glue and reinstalled, the door no longer sagged. My guess is the wood evidently helps strengthen the door against flexing. I also noticed that one of the rattles went away. 
__________________
Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )
|
|
#4
12-04-2006, 08:36 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Also the two rubber bumpers in the upper corners of the dash opening can be rotated in/out like hood bumpers to put the glove door latch deeper into the catch on the upper dash. Also verify the slotted nuts on the door hinge are tight. My door was misaligned to the dash. I loosened the slotted nuts, pulled out on the door and retightened! Now the door closes flush with the dash and the surrounding gap is even.
__________________
81 300CD (sold) 1972 280 SEL 4.5 (sold) 1966 250 S 4 spd (sold) 1974 450 SL (sold) 86 BMW 325ES (sold), 1973 280C (sold) 1988 300 SE.
|
|
#5
12-04-2006, 09:17 PM
|
||||
|
||||
|
These glove compartments I'd say are the achille's heel of the interiors of these cars, they're always sagging or rattling on all but those stupidly low mileage ebay cars that go for 20 grand.
I'm just glad the glovebox is the most of my worries, besides my sagging passenger seat.
__________________
1985 CA 300D Turbo , 213K mi
|
|
#6
12-05-2006, 06:55 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
Quote:
__________________
1987 300SDL 411k mi and counting 2001 BMW 1150GS 29k mi and wintering
|
|
#8
12-24-2006, 01:09 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
 I have loosened the lower slotted nuts and pulled door both up and down, tightening each time to see how it fits. As above, the upper left side does not fit well at all, and the light comes on at the slightest little bump. It is very loose at the latch. The latch on the door is secured through the hole in the middle to the tab on the latch handle. This isn't rocket science of course, but I just can't get it right. Any instructions from yall that I can't seem to figure out? This is on the Duck, but the wagon is the same way for the most part... another thread. My latch appears tight, and the spring seems in good shape. How do I get the glove box door to lie flush against the dash?
__________________
Jimmy L. '05 Acura TL 6MT  2001 ML430 My Spare Gone: '95 E300 188K "Batmobile" Texas Unfriendly Black '85 300TD 235K "The Wagon" Texas Friendly White '80 240D 154K "China"  Scar engine installed'81 300TD 240K "Smash" '80 240D 230K "The Squash" '81 240D 293K"Scar" Rear ended harder than Elton John Last edited by JimmyL; 12-24-2006 at 01:24 AM.
|
|
#9
12-24-2006, 02:15 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
Either the mounting screws need tightening, the door stops are screwed out too much, or the plastic insert with the "cup holders" has worn out at the base and letting the mounting screws drop the glovebox door and thereby letting it pop open.
__________________
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg
|
|
#11
12-24-2006, 09:13 AM
|
||||
|
||||
|
I went round and round with my glovebox and never got it to close properly...Finally ordered new inside plastic piece with adjoining lever and such from Performance Products and that was the fix. Apparently the plastic where the latch is mounted was worn so as to not allow the latch to work properly.
__________________
83 300CDTurbo 307,000 2005 Honda Element 266,000 56 Nash Ambassador Country Club Special 34,000(under restoration presently) http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/car-audio-multimedia/125099-123-install-extreme-dynamat.html
|
|
#12
12-24-2006, 12:55 PM
|
|||
|
|||
|
I also replaced the entire inner plastic piece with the part from Mercedes. Cost was about $20. The problem is that there is a little plastic stub on that piece that the spring clip hooks onto. The tip of mine had broken off and wouldn't allow the clip to stay in place to let the glove box door close properly. Works great now. The part number is stamped into that plastic piece.
Len
|
 |
| Bookmarks |
|
|
Linear Mode
