Car wanders on freeway, what to replace??? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

pawoSD · #1 12-28-2006, 10:54 AM

My car has gotten to the point where it drifts quite a bit on the freeway, especially if I am hit by a crosswind.

I am assuming I should replace my tie rods (all of them) since they are likely 100k+ in age at least. On the parts site I noticed that there are "tie rod ends" and "tie rod assemblies" with a significant difference in cost. Which one should I buy? On diesel giant's pictorial I saw he used the entire new tie rod... all three for my car would be $180. I'll be having the dealer replace them because I don't want to work on steering components.

Any tips or advice on this potential project? I am getting sick of my car wandering all over the freeway, its getting hard to keep it in a straight line!

Parrot of Doom · #2 12-28-2006, 10:56 AM

Alignment could be out. Check the thrust angle on the back wheels. Mine was well out, and effectively steering from the back.

Matt L · #3 12-28-2006, 10:58 AM

Also check for play in the pitman and idler arms. Especially the latter.

t walgamuth · #4 12-28-2006, 11:00 AM

and rear sway bar links

tom w

pawoSD · #5 12-28-2006, 11:05 AM

Has been replaced:

Rear Sway Links
Idler Arms
Steering Damper
Alignment was done less than a year ago (last february)

When you get the steering to a certain spot or if there is no wind outside, it will track straight just fine, its when its more windy, then it swerves around.

The only place I have around here that could check the suspension out is the dealer....and they charge $95 an hour to look at it.

I'd rather be paying that and getting things replaced than paying it for potentially nothing, then having to pay again for the actual repair....

I think my guide rods/bushings are pretty shot as well, but the ball joints look ok, no clunking, and when I grab a wheel and shake it doesn't move/have play.

Potential culprits: Tie rods, steering box, guide rods, maaaaybe the alignment

What would be my best bet for why the car wanders/swerves, especially in windy situations, it feels like the steering wheel is merely a "suggestion" for where the car is going..

MattBelliveau · #6 12-28-2006, 11:10 AM

If there is no play in the wheels when you shake them, I would probably rule out tie-rods...

dannym · #7 12-28-2006, 11:11 AM

Subframe bushings?

rrgrassi · #8 12-28-2006, 11:21 AM

How about cross winds? Remember the bigger the vehicle, the more surface for wind to push on. Winds 30 mph and up do cause us to feel the buffeting.

If nothing is loose suspension wise, it just the physics of driving in the wind. Ever seen an 18 wheeler blown over by the wind?

I would not worry about it IMHO. Even our Jetta get knocked around by a strong cross wind.

patbob · #9 12-28-2006, 01:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

The only place I have around here that could check the suspension out is the dealer....and they charge $95 an hour to look at it.

I'd rather be paying that and getting things replaced than paying it for potentially nothing, then having to pay again for the actual repair....

Hmm.. you'd pay them to tell you nothing's worn out and then have the replace things anyway?

Quote:

I think my guide rods/bushings are pretty shot as well, but the ball joints look ok, no clunking, and when I grab a wheel and shake it doesn't move/have play.

Bushings will cause wandering problems. If you know they're bad, replace them first and see where you get to.

Quote:

What would be my best bet for why the car wanders/swerves, especially in windy situations, it feels like the steering wheel is merely a "suggestion" for where the car is going..

The worn out parts are my bet

You can plink in the dark and replace pieces until you stumble across it, or have someone look at it and narrow the list down. You may even find multiple pieces that need replacing and are cheaper to do all at once.

My 300D's in the same state, and now worse after sliding off the asphalt the other day. If I can't figure out what is wrong, it's going to someone who can tell me. I'll then decide what I can do and what to have someone do.

turbodeezl · #10 12-28-2006, 01:38 PM

Many threads suggest it is the sub frame bushings(search: cross wind drifting). I have this same problem and have replaced a bad tie rod, and idler arm kit. I also have one ball joint that is bad, so I'm dealing with the problem until I can replace the ball joint and subframe mounts, which are a pain in the a$$. I am also going to replace the front and rear differential mounts. No point in doing an alignment until everythings' done.

A good way to tell if you have a bad ball joint is to back off a 4"+ curb with the wheel turned so that each wheel comes off seperately. If the ball joint is bad, it will most likely make a loose 'clunking' noise.

Brian Carlton · #11 12-28-2006, 11:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

I am assuming I should replace my tie rods (all of them) since they are likely 100k+ in age at least.

Why make that assumption?

Maybe the ball joints are shot?

Maybe the guide rod bushings are weak?

Maybe the steering dampener is shot?

Maybe the steering box has too much play?

Making an assumption, as you have done, without going through the suspension carefully by someone who knows suspensions, is just tossing money out the window..........IMHO, of course.

bigbillyboy · #12 12-28-2006, 04:17 PM

I had the same issue. Wandering at highway speeds, especially in a wind. I just replaced all of the busings, ball joints (upper and lower) and complete tie rods (the old ones were so corroded I doubt that they would have loosened up enough for an adjustment). I cannot believe the difference it made. my '85 300d now tracks straight and true, and there is no longer a vibration in the steering wheel. I did all of the work myself, except for the alignment, and it was fairly easy. I had 340K on the original supsension components. It was the best $250.00 I have spent on the Benz. FYI.

Knightrider966 · #13 12-30-2006, 06:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by pawoSD

My car has gotten to the point where it drifts quite a bit on the freeway, especially if I am hit by a crosswind.

I am assuming I should replace my tie rods (all of them) since they are likely 100k+ in age at least. On the parts site I noticed that there are "tie rod ends" and "tie rod assemblies" with a significant difference in cost. Which one should I buy? On diesel giant's pictorial I saw he used the entire new tie rod... all three for my car would be $180. I'll be having the dealer replace them because I don't want to work on steering components.

Any tips or advice on this potential project? I am getting sick of my car wandering all over the freeway, its getting hard to keep it in a straight line!

I would start with ALL the rubber suspension bushings first and work your way up from there! Mine was doing the same thing when I bought it and I also had to replace a tie rod end on the passenger side. The rubber bushungs were more worn than anything else!

pawoSD · #14 01-05-2007, 12:29 AM

Well, I had to drive back to GR, MI today from Lansing MI, (74 miles) and it was very windy....needless to say, the issue I thought was gone, is BACK, and its BAD.

I could barely keep the car in a straight line with tons of counter steering when wind gusts hit me! It was swerving all over the place.

SO, I brought it right into the dealer, and low and behold, inspection was FREE!

They took my car for 3 hours and had their top MB tech inspect everything to figure out the problems. He says: Replace left ball joint, its in bad shape with lots of play, right is fine (left front makes a thump now when turning, so I am getting it replaced ASAP) Also found: bushings tight and ok, steering ok, steeringbox had never been adjusted/tightened, so he tightened it up, eliminated almost all play in the wheel! Mind you, they did this free! He says I should replace the rear springs and shocks, which they told me before (my car sits low), and to have it realigned. So I ordered all the parts, two springs, two shocks, two spring bushings (14mm), and a ball joint for $337 They want $300 for the ball joint labor, and about $200-250 for the rear springs/shocks. Sounds fairly reasonable....I am going to talk to an INDY I know in Lansing tomorrow, if his price isn't much better, off to the dealer it goes. Considering they did 3 hours of free analysis and inspection + adjusted my steering, for FREE, I think I may just give them my business. I was amazed!

Also taking place tomorrow morning, Valve adjustment, by me!