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  #16  
Old 01-23-2007, 08:28 AM
redbaronph123's Avatar
Brick right foot..
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Philippines
Posts: 289
a lot has been discussed about this topic. If you do a search on LEDs and clusters you'll find some threads that discuss this modification in detail.

1) My experiences with LED's in the instrument cluster...so far

2) Dash is very dim

and here's one where I actually did it on my car..a long time ago..
Just sharing: My Dash Lighting Project

Hope this helps..

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  #17  
Old 01-26-2007, 08:40 PM
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Location: Birmingham, AL
Posts: 526
bulb wattage

what is the stock bulb wattage for the intrument cluster lights? is 5W bulb safe and usable?
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  #18  
Old 01-27-2007, 02:24 AM
Minnesota 300SD owner
 
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Location: S.E. Minn.
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dash lights

There was a post a while back where the person bypassed the adjustable dimmer in the dash cluster and was happy
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  #19  
Old 01-27-2007, 09:39 AM
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Location: Matthews, NC
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Smile

I had the same "DIM" problem on my 84 500SEL. I cleaned the dimmer, cleaned then painted the reflectors silver (spray can from just about anywhere will be fine), and cleaned the prisms. When cleaning the prisms, use mild soap, a soft rag, and don't touch them with bare hands while puting them back in. Replaced the bulbs with 194 type and now have to turn the brightness down as they are too bright if turned up all the way. They have been this way for about 5 years now and I have had no problems. I have modified the car some, but it still looks original in every way. This method keeps the original look which is very classic.
Just my 1 cent worth (my opion isn't worth 2 cents).
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  #20  
Old 01-27-2007, 10:11 AM
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Location: Windsor, VA
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I switched to LEDS a couple weeks ago

and used this bulb http://autolumination.com/194_marker.html Keep in mind, my car is a 124 and the lights may be different. I used the ones toward the bottom of the page with the inverted lens, they send more light to the sides. Simple plug in replacement. My instrument panel is now readable at night with no mods to the reflectors or prisms. If I cleaned those it would probably be super.

I have a 4 LED bulb I am going to try next time I have the panel out. I'll report back after I try it.
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  #21  
Old 01-27-2007, 11:45 AM
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If you open the cluster you will see the light socket/compartment where the bulb sits and points at the "prism" plastic fiber optic ribbon. There is thick aluminum tape designed to fix holes in exhaust lines that you can use to line the inside of the socket/compartment. That will reflect a lot more light into the line and down toward your gauges. White paint will work, but not as good.
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  #22  
Old 02-04-2007, 06:44 PM
Tom Evans
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 180
Thanks for all your suggestions. I now have some LEDs that I'm going to experiment with them.

I took the cluster out and noticed that the prisms have been melted at the very end and have a darkened appearance. It's too late not, but I've got to ask. Is the 194 lamp a 3 watt or 5 watt lamp? I've had 194s in there for years.

Can the prisms be cleaned or even have the melted, opaque end carefully cut off, this exposing clear material to the light?

1983/300CD, When you talk about the bright aluminum tape, do you mean to place it between the prism and the white replective cover?

Finally, does anyone know of a company out there that refurbishes these instrument cluster housings?
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  #23  
Old 02-05-2007, 01:14 PM
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Location: West of Ft. Worth. TX
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I did not know, previously, what the wattage rating was for a 194 bulb. After several searches, I finally found the answer.....3W.

As to your dilemna of how to restore the prisms, I would think a Dremel with various grades of polishing compound might be the way to go. Also for the reflectors, some have mentioned painting them with Testors white model paint or as referred to here, bright aluminum tape. I don't know how well the paint will hold up to the bulb heat or how easy it would be to get that aluminum tape to conform to the reflector. The trick might be to find the lightest weight, and probably the cheapest, exhaust tape you can find.

I am in the same quandry, as the PO installed the incorrect bulbs and melted the reflectors. I'm going to try the painting of the needles first with a flourescant paint color and then use a dremel to see if it will take care of some discoloration on the reflectors.
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  #24  
Old 02-05-2007, 11:12 PM
Tom Evans
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 180
SD Blue,

Are you are saying to use the Dremel tool to "polish" away the melted, slightly brown end of the prisms? In other words, to provide a clear end on the prisms to accept the light from the bulb?

I would think the tape used to seal the exhaust stacks on gas water heaters might do the trick. It certainly can take the heat.
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  #25  
Old 02-06-2007, 12:07 PM
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Yes, in both circumstances. I am thinking that providing a crystal clear edge on the prism, by removal of the burnt portion, would be a huge benefit and wouldn't require such delicate surgery as to remove, cut, polish and reinstall the prism itself.

That tape you mentioned sounds good too. I believe the affect the bulb heat has on the longevity of the adhesive would be insignificant for that kind of tape. Is it pretty pliable for the small areas in to which it will be fitted?
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  #26  
Old 02-06-2007, 06:19 PM
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Here's my cluster guys! Sorry for the crappy mobile pics!
Attached Thumbnails
Brighter Dash Lights for 126s and 123s-leds.jpg   Brighter Dash Lights for 126s and 123s-led1.jpg   Brighter Dash Lights for 126s and 123s-led2.jpg  

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