Alright thanks for the quick response, sorry for the questions but this is the first time im doing this and I dont want anything to fall or break.
Thanks again,
Mike.

Make sure when you get that sucker mounted to center the engine height to the mounting. Otherwise, when you turn it, WHOOPS, it spins violently, maybe into you.

Alright, so I went and picked up some long metric bolts about 4 and 3/4 inches but im unlittle unlclear if Im doing this right. I threaded the bolts in all the way, the head through the mounting gear or arms on the engine stand and the rest into the engine. The problem is there is alot of exposed bolt sticking out of the engine is that normal? The engine is definatly not flush with the engine stand arms. Also, can someone elaborate on how to center the engine on the stand.
I appreciate the help thanks,
Mike.

I modified an engine stand like shown with a plate and standoffs designed specifically for the 616/617 engine. I will find out if it will work with a 602 engine over the next couple days.

All the mounting bolts should be drawn up tight. If a bolt is too long, put washers or a 1/2 drive socket under the head of the bolt.
Try to get the weight of the engine centered on the stand. The axis of the stand should be about in the middle of the block, not the crankshaft.

Torin Big Red
 

I was thinking of purchasing this one:

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200313359_200313359

Anyone have experience with this brand, etc.?

You have to have the the engine block flush with the mounting surfaces. I ended up using spacers and a lot of washers to accompish this. See pic below to see my makeshift spacers.

I am using roughly 125mm bolts and there is about an inch space right now. I have been looking at that picture for the last hour trying to figure out how you went about setting it up. I never nocticed all those spacers in your picture you must have preety long bolts also.
Thanks,
Mike

Yep they were pretty long. I just couldn't find any bolts that were shorter that would work because the next size down was too short. Go figure....
But the rest of the set up was figuring out how to attach a narrow block to a wider base. With enough tweeking, I somehow managed it. Don't ask me how I did it, because I will have to be there with you to figure it out.

I have several stands in use in my shop, 3 & 4 wheelers(and a few torched off bases from shopping carts that were beaten up)-I knew a guy that worked @ the Albertsons warehouse-, only one thats ever had any issues is the one that has my 1960 235 chevy six on it, length of the engine strains it, it holds but sags bad, so I had to brace up the front end of it. I've never worried much about bolt ratings, its not like youre running it on the stand or building a big block chevy. I am currently undergoing early design of a "break in" engine stand. I have an old 70's Camaro front subframe clip with suspension that was going to go into an old Ford truck I had, sold the truck. Now I am looking at mounting a radiator to the clip, and a split fuel tank, diesel and gasoline, adding some large caster wheels to the rear "forks" of the subframe and then welding up some different custom plates to bolt differing engines to the factory holes for mounts in the subframe. There will of course also be a gauge panel for monitoring things. This way I can use it for compression testing, break in's, you name it.

I have finally got everything mounted up except I cannot figure out a way to use the bellhousing threads that sit above the crank for all four arms. The only way I can make it work without much hassel is to use the other holes that line the engine where the bellhousing meets. Does anyone see a problem with this method?
Thanks,
Mike

Show us a pic. If you are able to secure all for bolt holes to the mounting plate, then it is good to go.