Essential tools for the economical DIYer: please help! - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

rino · #1 02-22-2007, 04:02 PM

I am newbie DIYer looking forward to perform some needed work (basically, all maintenance tasks in the book) on my '79 240D. Over the last few days I've done engine oil, transmission and differential fluid change... they were a breeze, really, requiring just a couple of tools: a ratchet, a 13mm socket, a 14mm hex tip socket, a pair of home-made wooden ramps.

I am looking to do routine maintenance things such as brakes, fuel filters, valve and the other required adjustments, and so forth. What are the indispensable tools I should get for these tasks? For instance, brake work is next in line: I was consulting my Haynes manual and in that section alone it mentions needle nose pliers, torque wrench, high-melting point brake grease, small punch, allen socket of unspecified size for removing hub, etc. ... I confess, I feel a bit lost just like a fish out of water... I would like to understand what is essential and what is not, one of the main reasons being that my budget is not a very large one.

I'll be going to the nearest Sears and Walmart stores this weekend (trying to get good deals on tools) and I would very much appreciate a good soul here telling me what tools I should be getting there. So far I have a ratchet, a set of metric sockets 9 to 19mm, one of metric wrenches 6 to 18mm, one hex tip socket 14mm, two 4"-high wooden ramps, various screwdrivers, a pair of regular pliers, a hammer and the jack that came with the car. Basically, very close to nothing...

I plan to get a pair of jackstands there (what type should I be getting for my 240D?) and whatever else you'll be suggesting here... These stores are about 10-15 miles away from where I live, so it would be great if I could get all the essential in just one trip. Your advice here will be very much appreciated. For those tools that are specific to just a single task, it would be great if you mentioned what task they are for... clarifications are never unappreciated at my present level of experience.

Thanks,

Rino

MattBelliveau · #2 02-22-2007, 04:07 PM

I remember getting a socket/wrench set from WalMart (by Stanley Tools), for around $50. Included a small assortment of wrenches, 3/8 and 1/2 socket wrenches, and about 80 different sockets. Been my best friend.

justinperkins · #3 02-22-2007, 04:13 PM

deep and shallow sockets, sizes 10mm to 19mm, extensions (short and long), swivel extensions (for glow plugs and a manifolds), open end wrenches sized 7mm to 22mm and an assortment of screwdrivers.

also a pair of needle nose vise grips are the monkey wrench of the auto mechanics toolbox.

Diesel Giant · #4 02-22-2007, 04:21 PM

Standard set of mechanics hand tools should do the job.

For some guides on how to do different DIY look here http://dieselgiant.com/mercedes_diesel_maintenance_tips.htm

Ask if you need help on anything. We all like to help each other out.

#5 02-22-2007, 04:21 PM

I have two suggestions:

1. First buy tools as you find a need for them

2. Buy tools of adequate quality.

For a DIYer you don't need Snap On or Mac tools, but I would consider Craftsman as the minimum quality level.

Start with a set of COMBINATION wrenches. This means box end on one end and open end on the other of the same size. Then a 3/8" drive and 1/2" drive socket set with ratchet, several different length extensions and a universal joint. All of this in Metric, of course with sizes from 8MM to 17MM for the wrenches and the same for your 3/8 stuff. The 1/2 drive stuff should be from about 13 to 32 or so. Add a set of 3/8 drive hex bits from about 5MM up to 10MM.

Add to that Phillips and flatblade screwdrivers, a few various pairs of pliers and maybe an adjustable wrench or two.

After that buy good quality tools as you need them and DON'T get them at Wal Mart or some such.

Rashakor · #6 02-22-2007, 04:37 PM

You will need a 3/16"punch a 7mm wrench and a 5.5mm allen for the brakes job.

As well as 17mm and 19mm sockets.

The maintenance set of tools is actually quite limited:

6, 7, 8, 10, 13, 17, 19, 22, 24 and 46mm sockets and wrenches
5.5, 10 and 14mm allen sockets

rino · #7 02-22-2007, 05:22 PM

I appreciate it...

Is a torque wrench essential? What about a power bleeder for the brakes, is it important or is this along the lines of the "traditional oil drain vs. oil extractor" argument? What of lubricants, greases and the like? Are there a couple of these that are basic and can be used for a multitude of tasks, or should one buy each time a different and highly specific product for a given tasks as, for instance, a whole container of "high melting point brake grease" of which one is going to end up applying just a tiny bit "to the contact surfaces of the back and edges of the new brake pad" (quoted from chapter 9 of the Haynes manual) at two-year intervals and is going to last 128 years...

You know what I mean?
I am trying to simplify... get down to the essentials and minimize waste of both money and storage space (of which I have very little) in the process...

Rino

TheDon · #8 02-22-2007, 05:10 PM

Upgrade to steel ramps unless these wooden ramps are milled from a solid chunk of wood

Don't forget a metric pair of channel locks ..jk But channel locks are good to carry with at all times.

I bought a 150 piece craftsman tool set at sears and its all I have ever needed. I also buy as I go along for tools

rino · #9 02-22-2007, 05:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheDon

Upgrade to steel ramps unless these wooden ramps are milled from a solid chunk of wood

Don't forget a metric pair of channel locks ..jk But channel locks are good to carry with at all times.

I bought a 150 piece craftsman tool set at sears and its all I have ever needed. I also buy as I go along for tools

I've seen those steel ramps (and plastic ones, like the Rhino's) and they scare the living hell out of me... they are too high and should they crash while I am underneath the beast... I am gone! With mine, I have peace of mind. They are made of two 2" layers of solid wood, stacked and nailed together, and believe me, they ain't gonna crash... I think they could comfortably hold 15K lbs. each.

I'll check out the 150-piece set at Sears in a couple of days, if I can find it. Do you have the exact name for it?

Rino

#10 02-23-2007, 08:51 AM

Thanks for the clarification.

As far as bleeding go, the MB brakes are no more complex than any other. Although I have a pressure bleeder, there is absolutely no need for one as long as you always have a helper. Once both of my kids went off to college and my wifes schedule rarely coincided with mine I bought one.

The only "magic" about bleeding MB brakes is that on some models you will have to do it with the engine running so that the power assist will help make adequate pressure. I found that necessary if my daughter or wife were helping. Neither one of them were over 5' 4" and just couldn't push the pedal hard enough on my 240D to get the pressure I needed. My 6'4", Varsity Athlete son, on the other hand, had no trouble making pressure with the engine off.

SOOooo...... If you don't have a Linebacker for a neighbor and your assistant is small, run the engine when bleeding brakes, but make sure the assistant understands the importance of not touching anything except the brake pedal while the engine is running.

Good luck,

rino · #11 02-23-2007, 09:05 AM

Thanks, Larry, for the input. However, your new information makes complexities grow even further... I was thinking of a retired, old man to assist me during the brake-bleeding procedure (he doesn't look like a Mr. Olympia...) Besides, if what you were referring to is the vacuum provided by the vacuum pump to the brake booster, the bad news is that the vacuum system is faulty in my car, at least partially. For instance, it does not work on doors... however, it is still capable of shutting off the engine (it is still the action from the vacuum pump that does it, isn't it?)

So, what do you suggest now, given the circumstances?

Rino

Shorebilly · #12 02-24-2007, 07:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rino

Thanks, Larry, for the input. However, your new information makes complexities grow even further... I was thinking of a retired, old man to assist me during the brake-bleeding procedure (he doesn't look like a Mr. Olympia...) Besides, if what you were referring to is the vacuum provided by the vacuum pump to the brake booster, the bad news is that the vacuum system is faulty in my car, at least partially. For instance, it does not work on doors... however, it is still capable of shutting off the engine (it is still the action from the vacuum pump that does it, isn't it?)

So, what do you suggest now, given the circumstances?

Rino

Although I have not completely read this thread through....you question the need for a power brake bleeder.....you also mention that parts of your vacuum system are not working.....a MiteyVac with the brake bleeding attachments may be in order.......the MiteyVac is essential in vacuum system troubleshooting, and it can also be used to bleed your brakes.....

Also, as I have stated in other threads.....check out your local Pawn or Hoc shops.....you can find good deals on tools there.....

Check out the "Gearwrench" sold at NAPA and other places.....basically a conbination wrench with a ratcheting box end.....I have found these tools to be very helpful, and almost a necessity in changing Glow Plugs.....

You should also check into a reasonably priced Volt or Multimeter....the folks at "Radio Shack" can show you several, and should be able to advise you as to which will suit your needs (also can be used on many household repairs).....

a set of Metric Allen wrenches (usually go from 1.5 thru 10mm)....and a 14mm (9/16 will work) allen wrench for removal of your Rear (Differential) End Oil Fill Plug.......I personally prefer the ones with a ball looking long end, good for removing allens in tight and offset areas.....

An impact driver set.....especially if you have no air tools.....

a couple of small wire brushes.....

Depending on what you intend to do, you would need 3 different torque wrenches to cover all of the torque values in the MB manuals.....just get them as you need them.....

That is just a few things that have not been mentioned thus far.....

SB

vstech · #13 02-23-2007, 09:51 AM

whoo boy,
brake grease? on the dual piston calipers the MB has, there really isn't anyplace to use it. nothing slides like on a single piston caliper. for maintenance, all you need is 10mm or 8mm wrench for the bleed screw, and a good wire brush to clean all the gunk out of the caliper where the pads go. some pad goop, is good to keep the vibration of the pads down, but it's not necessary. it can get squeeky without it, but if you get good pads, it is not a problem. I have flushed the lines on 3 of my cars, and I have not needed anybody pressing on the pedal, with the cap off the MC, gravity will do a fine job of bleeding and flushing the lines, just be sure to keep it full! I find it best to suck out the fluid from the MC and then fill it with fresh fluid. open the furthest bleed screw, and let it drain until clear fluid dribbles out, then close it, and move on to the next closer and so on.
If you need to remove the calipers, 17mm wrench will remove the two bolts, USE FRESH BLUE LOCKTITE when reassembling! you will need a flare/line wrench to remove the rubber lines, 15mm I think. To remove the rotor, you will need IMPACT 10MM Hex Allen Socket, 1/2" drive if you can find it, and a small allen wrench to loosen the locknut on the spindle. here you will need about 1/2 pint of wheel bearing grease and a wheel bearing packer makes it quick, but your palm will do in a pinch. pack the bearings, and pack a good layer on the inside of the hub.

the only problem with 2.5 ton stamped steel jackstands is they are too short to reach the frame with the tires off the ground. I like the 6 ton stands, they reach well. of course they are large and heavy. I would also get a quality floor jack. the aluminum "racing" type are pretty easy to store and move around, and they are adequate for brake work. My pep boys sold a "set" with an aluminum jack and two jackstands for 79.00 during christmas, similar sets should be available. with small jackstands, you have to place them on lower suspension components to hold up the car. I like to place them on the frame.
I also only like to raise one end of the car at a time. I do always raise the entire end though, not just one side. the antisway bars would be under high stress with only one wheel lifted, so I don't do it.

it sounds like you have the tools covered, but you will need an 8mm wrench too.
For valve adjustments, DO NOT GET CRAFTSMAN wrenches. either buy Diesel Giant's set, or make a set from 3 CHEAP 14 MM wrenches. you will need a torch and a grinder to make the wrenches fit. ebay also sells valve adjustment wrench sets. it CAN be done with un modified wrenches, but it aint simple
keep the questions coming, you're in for a lot of fun!
John

rino · #14 02-23-2007, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

whoo boy,
brake grease? on the dual piston calipers the MB has, there really isn't anyplace to use it. nothing slides like on a single piston caliper.

I was referring to the Haynes manual, chapter 9: disk brake pads replacement section, where it instructs to use high melting-poing brake grease on the back and edges of the new pad...

Quote:

for maintenance, all you need is 10mm or 8mm wrench for the bleed screw, and a good wire brush to clean all the gunk out of the caliper where the pads go. some pad goop, is good to keep the vibration of the pads down, but it's not necessary. it can get squeeky without it, but if you get good pads, it is not a problem. I have flushed the lines on 3 of my cars, and I have not needed anybody pressing on the pedal, with the cap off the MC, gravity will do a fine job of bleeding and flushing the lines, just be sure to keep it full! I find it best to suck out the fluid from the MC and then fill it with fresh fluid. open the furthest bleed screw, and let it drain until clear fluid dribbles out, then close it, and move on to the next closer and so on.

Excellent! It would really be great if it worked that way on my '79 240D...

Quote:

If you need to remove the calipers, 17mm wrench will remove the two bolts, USE FRESH BLUE LOCKTITE when reassembling! you will need a flare/line wrench to remove the rubber lines, 15mm I think. To remove the rotor, you will need IMPACT 10MM Hex Allen Socket, 1/2" drive if you can find it, and a small allen wrench to loosen the locknut on the spindle. here you will need about 1/2 pint of wheel bearing grease and a wheel bearing packer makes it quick, but your palm will do in a pinch. pack the bearings, and pack a good layer on the inside of the hub.

the only problem with 2.5 ton stamped steel jackstands is they are too short to reach the frame with the tires off the ground. I like the 6 ton stands, they reach well. of course they are large and heavy. I would also get a quality floor jack. the aluminum "racing" type are pretty easy to store and move around, and they are adequate for brake work. My pep boys sold a "set" with an aluminum jack and two jackstands for 79.00 during christmas, similar sets should be available. with small jackstands, you have to place them on lower suspension components to hold up the car. I like to place them on the frame.

How do you feel about the Craftsman 3 ton High Lift Jack Stands?
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00950159000&cat=Mechanics+Tools&subcat=Lift+Equipment
They have a lift range to up to 21" (as opposed to 24" for the 6-ton models)... If you think they are sufficiently high, they would be a good compromise for someone like me with very little space for storage. Would just the two jack stands plus the car's jack be sufficient, or is the alluminum jack really important? I wouldn't be lifting the car on stands every other day... And storage space IS an issue for me.

Quote:

I also only like to raise one end of the car at a time. I do always raise the entire end though, not just one side. the antisway bars would be under high stress with only one wheel lifted, so I don't do it.

So you advise to only put on stands just one front side of the car at a time, and always the entire end... This obviously applies also to doing tire rotation (how the heck do you do that with just two stands, really?) and bleeding the system, right?

Quote:

it sounds like you have the tools covered, but you will need an 8mm wrench too.

I do have that as part of the small metric set.

Quote:

For valve adjustments, DO NOT GET CRAFTSMAN wrenches. either buy Diesel Giant's set, or make a set from 3 CHEAP 14 MM wrenches. you will need a torch and a grinder to make the wrenches fit. ebay also sells valve adjustment wrench sets. it CAN be done with un modified wrenches, but it aint simple
keep the questions coming, you're in for a lot of fun!
John

Do you know where I can find an example of how to make those wrenches? Perhaps some pictures will be enough for me to get an idea...

Thanks a lot for your advice!

Rino

vstech · #15 02-23-2007, 11:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rino

I was referring to the Haynes manual, chapter 9: disk brake pads replacement section, where it instructs to use high melting-poing brake grease on the back and edges of the new pad...

I wouldn't do that.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rino

Excellent! It would really be great if it worked that way on my '79 240D...

It will. it's just slow.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rino

How do you feel about the Craftsman 3 ton High Lift Jack Stands?
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00950159000&cat=Mechanics+Tools&subcat=Lift+Equipment
They have a lift range to up to 21" (as opposed to 24" for the 6-ton models)... If you think they are sufficiently high, they would be a good compromise for someone like me with very little space for storage. Would just the two jack stands plus the car's jack be sufficient, or is the alluminum jack really important? I wouldn't be lifting the car on stands every other day... And storage space IS an issue for me.

the aluminum jack will fit in the trunk well. and it's light enough to pull out when you need it. I really would only lift the car with a floor jack. other than for changing a tire on the side of the road.

Quote:

Originally Posted by rino

So you advise to only put on stands just one front side of the car at a time, and always the entire end... This obviously applies also to doing tire rotation (how the heck do you do that with just two stands, really?) and bleeding the system, right?

for tire rotation, I jack up one end, pull off the tire, put on the spare, and put the car down, pick up the back, and put on the front tire, roll the back to the front, and continue...

Quote:

Originally Posted by rino

Do you know where I can find an example of how to make those wrenches? Perhaps some pictures will be enough for me to get an idea...

Ebay

Quote:

Originally Posted by rino

Thanks a lot for your advice!

anytime, it's what we do here!

John