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#1
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Help Wanted! LF & RR Windows Inoperable
My driver's window is stuck in the open position following a fairly typical commute home earlier this week. The right rear window is also non operating in the closed position. I checked my CD ROM Benz manual and I don't have a power window elect schematic
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1985 300D Turbo California Model (134K) |
#2
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It's one of the fuses I don't remember which one but your car's symptoms is a classic sign of the window fuse. Wiggle them and make sure you've got good contact, it should start working again. If not, replace the fuses.
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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg |
#3
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second that
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#4
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put in a new fuse to be SURE it's not that.
you can CAREFULLY remove the door panel dieselgiant.com has a nice DIY pictorial on procedure for this. and you can apply power to the screw leads that power the motor directly to verify it's operation. john
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#5
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has to be the fuse
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#6
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If two windows fail for any reason, there is a one in three chance that they will be on the same fuse.
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#7
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Mercedes wired the windows so that diagonally opposite ones work from the same fuse. This is probably so that, even if one fuse blows, you can still get one on each side, and one front, one rear, to work.
According to the diagram on the inside of the fuse box cover on my '85 300DT, LF & RR are on fuse "b" and RF & LR are on fuse "a." If even replacing the fuses with new ones doesn't help then you may have a bad switch, relay, or wiring. However, the fuse is always the first to check. Remember the advice previously given: even if you have power at the fuse according to your test meter, replace the fuse with a new one.
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![]() "Buster" in the '95 Our all-Diesel family 1996 E300D (W210) . .338,000 miles Wife's car 2005 E320 CDI . . 113,000 miles My car Santa Rosa population 176,762 (2022) Total. . . . . . . . . . . . 627,762 "Oh lord won't you buy me a Mercedes Benz." -- Janis Joplin, October 1, 1970 Last edited by Brian Carlton; 03-03-2007 at 10:28 AM. |
#8
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Using my DVM, I checked the voltage at the fuse block and I have power on the "b" circuit side of the fuse and the fuse looks fine, visually, so (at least on the surface) it doesn't seem to be the fuse. Unfortunately, I don't have a wiring schematic of the cirucuit since it wasn't included with the CD manual I purchased on the web. I will do the wiggle test and fuse replacement this morning, and go from there. Is the rocker switch difficult to remove from the console? I would like to check it out before tearing into the door.
Thanks to each of you in this forum for all the good advice I recieve ![]() ![]()
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1985 300D Turbo California Model (134K) |
#9
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You can pry them out with a small screwdriver.
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#10
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Are you sure about that?
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#11
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I'm sure that it's incorrect. I edited the post.
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#12
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I have the wiring diagram for your car, but I can't post it because is too big, and if I resize it, you can't read the text. Let me know your e-mail, I will send it to you.
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#13
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Or even better yet, go to the top of the page and click on "Buy Parts". That's what supports this forum where you found an answer.
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
#14
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Have you looked there for brass/copper fuses?
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#15
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Well, I went to Buy Parts and the fuse kit has the MB logo on the package. That is what I ordered about 3 years ago and what I received was a container of tinned copper fuses with that same MB logo. Since then, no intermittent fuse problems. (Before that, I had intermittent ACC and windows.)
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Sam 84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle ) |
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