Hmm, and they had three nubs? I always thought three nubs meant 19mm.

The reason I ask is that mine sags just a bit and mine have three nubs (already done subframe bushings and dif mount). Was hoping to fix it with new shocks and taller pads. If the three nubs do, in fact, mean 9.5mm, well then I might have a shot.

Heck, maybe you and I just need to swap springs!!:P

Im looking at the Mercedes EPC right now...

You are correct:
1 nub = 9.5 mm
2 nubs =14 mm
3 nubs = 19 mm

I wonder why I was thinking they are 9.5 mm earlier. Oh well.

Thinking out loud, it seems I have 19mm pads. Could I adjust things quite a bit with the 9.5mm pads? Would that make a big difference?

I think Im going to have to buy the springs and compare them to really know.

That's what I've read here, but I'll have to defer to those with more experience.

Might want to try the alignment first. If that doesn't work, then throw some 14mm or 9.5mm pads in there.

Anyone know what spring pads came stock in a W123??

I long for stock :-)

I always thought it depended on the options the car came equipped with, such as sunroofs or a hitch etc. Correct me if I'm wrong. :)
-Zach

Is there any way to get this info? I just have a plain turbo sedan, no hitch, SLS etc.

You previously mentioned that you have pads with "three nubs". However, this does not correspond with 9.5 mm pads. Can you check this data and reconfirm what you have?

If you have the 19mm pads, the simplest solution is to reduce the pad thickness to the 14mm pads. The vehicle will reduce height by about 1/2" and the camber should just drop back into specs.

I don't want to distract you from your problem, but what you describe about your shocks is not related to the camber issues. You should replace them so they are the right part number and have the same dampening affect. Bilstiens are a good choice.

TimK

Tim,

Good point - Bilsteins are on their way. Id like to eliminate that as a variable. I am going to just replace all the other stuff around that affects ride height that is obviously amiss like my subframe mounts and diff mount. Both are original and extra crispy.

dd

Update
 

Done since last post:

- installed new diff mount (needed to be changed)
- installed new subframe mounts (also needed to be done)
- installed 14.5 mm spring pads (had 19mm in before)
- installed Bilstein Comforts in rear (old shocks were wrong)
- had an alignment done (today)

Well, the car drives great, but, the rear wheels still have positive camber.

When measuring with a level, there is about a 3/8" gap if I place the level against the top sidewall (measuring gap at lower sidewall). It is visible by eye as well. Its better than it was before, but still there. Both wheels are identical.

I am going to go back tomorrow and ask the mechanic who did the alignment - I asked them to do a 4 wheel alignment, so I'm wondering if they considered it 'in spec'. Ill find out more tomorrow. I think the spec is 0 camber..

My latest thoughts:
1.) Is this a big deal now? Will it hurt my rear tires or be a handling hazard?
2.) Do I need to wait for stuff to settle in at all?

Any ideas are greatly appreciated.

thanks again,
dd

The addition of new subframe mounts, diff mount, and rear shocks all cause the back end to lift somewhat. So, the reduction from 19mm to 14 mm on the pads was largely offsetting.

I don't believe the sedan ever had the 19 mm pads installed for any reason from the factory. Either it was the 14mm or the 9.5mm depending on the spring.

So, clearly, you should have the 9.5mm pads to reduce the camber to proper spec (maximum of zero).

Thanks Brian. Looks like I get to hone my spring pad removal technique once again :) At least it gets easier the shorter the pads get.

dd

Update
 

Dropped in the 9.5mm pads. Still have some positive camber. Its late and I didn't measure to get exact data, but Id estimate about 1 degree positive on both wheels (measured after taking a drive).

So I have new shocks, spring pads, diff mount, subframe mounts (all needed to be done).

Should I just give it some time to settle out? Will there be appreciable settling of the components over a thousand miles?

thanks,
dd

Did they give you a printout of the alignment specs at the shop?
You might want to rent a camber gauge, using the sidewall of the tire is less accurate than using the wheel itself.

yes, imho.

tom W

yes - the rear was 1.47 degrees positive when I had the 14.5mm pads in there.

I can see by eye that its still positive - could I rent a gauge at AZ?


tom w - a thousand miles it is. next step would probably be new springs, so i dont want to rush into that.

on the bright side i can can really rip apart the suspension in a hurry now.

dd

The rear suspension settled out over time, as tom suggested.

No more positive camber in the rear...20k miles later.