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Manual Glow Plug "timer" switch
How about a simple starter solenoid relay from some other old car and a push button to control it with. Id hook all 5 up to it in paralell, and use a button that you have to hold down with your finger for the glowplugs to be on, so you couldn't leave them on, and burn them out. If it starts stalling after startup, just put your finger back on the button. I think I could count to 6 in cold weather and 3 in warm weather with my own brain...one onthousand two onethousand, etc, and err on the short side so as not to burn out my precious plugs.
What do you think Mark |
It will work real good and last a long time. I had an 81 Isuzu Imark diesel. First thing that failed was the glowplug timer. I hooked up a manual switch. 5 months ago, I bought an 83 Ford Ranger diesel. Glow plug system didn't work. Installed a momentary on-switch, works like a champ. The hardest part is the counting. Sometimes I get confused, is it 1, 3, 4, 2 or 1...?
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Switches
Did you use a remote relay/solenoid, or just send all the current through you switch?
Mark |
I installed that set up on my 78 240D quite a while ago and love it. I used an old Ford truck solenoid, and ran the wire through the GP indicator light. You need the solenoid because the new style GPs use an 80amp fuse so theres too many amps to put through the switch. My push button (5/8 hole) is in the dash above my left knee so I can glow and turn the key at the same time.
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I use a manual setup. I got an 80amp continuous-duty relay from NAPA for about $30.
http://www.fordmuscle.com/archives/2...s/relay_lg.jpg |
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Finally got around to taking a picture of it without the fuel/water separator blocking its view.
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Here is mine; been in use on my 82 6 cyl volvo diesel since around 1996. The 2 green wires go to the switch with the (+) from the battery on the large Left terminal (with 1 greeen switch wire attached) and the wire to the Glow Plugs comming out of the Right terminal.
http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/f...Picture087.jpg |
Yah, I love the "manual" system, mine is routed through the GP light in the cabin, as if you can't hear the solenoid a block away:D
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I just did a manual relay too. Very similar to what you all are listing here.
$25 in parts, connected easily to existing harness. This way I can re-install a replacement when I find one. What is not shown is I ran a low-amp wire into cabin connected to a press-and-hold switch to activate relay. Took 10 minutes. The relay is grounded to the fuel filter mounting bolt. Hot wire runs from battery , to cabin, to switch, to relay. The blue wire going to original relay in pic is now triggered by switch in cabin. http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/269192-my-relay-does-not-relay-mystery-solved.html |
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That's exactly what the early 260D and 170D used |
I'm planning on implementing a manual glow plug system on my 617 conversion. I've got a Ford solenoid and I ordered a really nice momentary switch with an orange glow LED in it to turn the glow plugs on.
The switch is rated at 3 amps at 250v which seems like it might be OK up to maybe 6 amps at 12v extrapolating from what I see on other switch ratings. The thing I can't seem to find anywhere is the current draw on the solenoid itself (not the glow plug or starter side, depending on the application) I've seen speculation everywhere from a few milli-amps to 30 amps. I can run my switch through a standard old 30amp Bosch relay to power the solenoid but why introduce another point of failure if not needed? I could measure the amps but all my little meters only go up to 200 miliamps. Can anyone confirm what the current draw is on a Ford or similar solenoid? |
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and actually the relay i have has 4 post, 2 small ones in the middle. |
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