Correct way to install front driveshaft guibo?
 

Howdy all, I think I found the source of my drivetrain slop. This has basically been the first time under the car since the 5-speed swap (9K miles).

The guibo (rubber piece with metal sleeves) is allowing the driveshaft to move forward and aft, perhaps I did not install it correctly from the start.

Are there any diagrams of how the bolts are to be positioned?



Thanks,
John :cool:

That is the first time I have heard the word "guibo" since I got rid of my Merkur XR4Ti and Scorpio

Picked it up from my BMW friend. :cool: I think I have it figured out. Will post back.

Ford, in it's infinite wisdom would not sell the guibo alone. So, if your guibo went out, you replaced the entire drive shaft. You could get the BMW unit which was exactly the same. I changed my drive shaft to use U-joints when I switched to a C4 trans because the C3 kept breaking.

"u" before "i" or...
 

I think MB's term of "Flexdisc" is better since we don't have to remember how to spell "GUIBO"!

John

Just checked my replacement flexdisc, still looks great, but the (rubber-metal vibration dampener looking) thing that is between the driveshaft and flexdisc has a little play in it (fore and aft), almost like the bolts do not have enough threads. :puzzled: Any ideas?

Thanks,
John

Howdy, I just removed the bolts, what would cause just one to wear like this?

I searched all over this site and the net for flex disc, it seems to be quite the elusive procedure, with much debate over which way it should face, etc.

Do I have the parts configured correctly? :confused:

Here are pics.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ICT0005-13.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ICT0004-17.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ICT0006-10.jpg

Thanks, any input would be helpful,
John

I believe that gizmo is some balencer thing, My 240D 5 spd didn't have one but I have a friend with a euro 5 spd that had one. He discarded it when he went from the 4 spd it originally had to the 5 spd. I dont think you need it.

It may not be critical.

This stinks though, what do y'all suggest... junkyard? New?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...ICT0003-16.jpg

Thanks again,
John

This identical issue happend on my car. Replace the flexdisk with a new one. I rotated the shaft balancer so that the DS and balancer's worn hole were not aligned. Added an additional washer on the balancer side and havent had a problem since then. BE VERY HAPPY you didnt sperate at speed. If so you would probably be looking for a new car. As it was mine separated on a 8lane (that is 8lanes per side) interstate during bumper to bumper traffic. I was in the middle lane and in flip flops. Also check you center carrier bearing and transmission mount. You will want make sure that you have the stiffest mount possible. The w123 has about 3 diff kinds. I can only imagine the 201/124 is similar. I would recommend replacing all of it down there while you are there.

Hmm...I think something is wrong here...
 

I've put up one of your pictures and drew in arrows, because I'm wondering where the bolts are that go inside those holes and into the rubber piece in front of it?

Did you take them out?

There are supposed to be 3 bolts going through those three holes and into the next rubber piece, pulling the two together.

You MAY have bolted it in wrong, unless I'm flat out wrong...but unless you took those bolts out already, and its completely different on a 300sd, I don't think I am.

IF they were never there, this would probably account for the "sliding" that is occuring with the driveshaft moving forward.

In this picture I edited, the GREEN arrows point to the holes that the hex head bolts are supposed to go through. They go through the round holes and then into the adjacent rubber piece to pull the two together.

The RED arrows point to the holes that you use to put the allen head bolts through. They go through those big holes (not meant to be tight, as the holes are large for the socket wrench) and through the next rubber piece, then into the "triangular" shaped metal piece that is on the tranny output shaft.

It looks to me that you have all 6 bolts on that middle rubber piece.

I'm pretty sure I'm correct, as I just finished putting in another tranny in my 300sd just last week and bolted up the driveshaft. I wouldn't imagine the two cars being any different as far as this issue is concerned.

Anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. I believe this info will help you immensely!

And even if you have it right, at least I can confirm your questions about whether you have everything bolted up correctly!

Good Luck!

not sure if this would help but heres some pics of my FD's

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...P1010149-1.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...l/p1010147.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t...p1010141-1.jpg

Thanks! That is how I had them oriented. I will try rotating the balancer as you said so the worn DS hole and balancer hole are not on the same side and see how it fastens together. Then keep an eye on it.

Ideally I should get a new front driveshaft piece wiht no worn holes, perhaps junkyards have them (as I cannot imagine they are cheap new), it came from a 2.3L gasser 5-speed.

Look on the new flex disk
 

If there is the word "VORNE" on it (embossed or molded) that side faces to the front.

Unfortunately you cant just plug in a front drive shaft section, well you could, but unless you were very lucky they would have an unexceptionable amount of vibration. Both sections are balanced together.

I am lucky then, failed to mark index on two tubes last time I removed it. :eek: Just after removal I thought about balancing. :mad:

I've hit a snag here, I never altered the nut to loosen the front of the driveshaft when I removed the flex disk. Now it seems as if there is tons of room between the transmission yolk and the flexdisk.

I must be missing something?

Prying the flexdisk free probably caused the front section of the driveshaft to move aft. Not a problem, just loosen the clamping nut and slide it forward. (I just used a couple of cheap adjustable wrenches or, if you are lucky, it can sometimes be loosened with sliding jaw pliers.)

(BTW, you might include the year/model of the car (user CP, profile) so we can help you better with questions.)

SD Blue.

Thank you, this is on my 81 240D M/T.

I am assuming "aft" means to the rear of the car? I agree that may have happened, but I am able to move the front section a little bit and clear the pin of the transmission a little.

I am also wondering if it is due to how I jacked up the car. I am on uneven dirt ground and jacked it on the passenger's once and on the driver's this time.

I swapped the damaged M/T flange on the car to a A/T flange I had on a spare tranmission. These parts were identical and felt like the sad identical in the transmission when I torqued the new one down.

The two-piece driveshaft has a clamping nut on the front section where it slides onto the splines of the rear section. It usually isn't torqued that tight and the front part of the driveshaft can move. If the transmission flange was identical when you swapped them, then you should be good to just loosen the clamping nut and slide it forward.