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#1
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Correct way to install front driveshaft guibo?
Howdy all, I think I found the source of my drivetrain slop. This has basically been the first time under the car since the 5-speed swap (9K miles).
The guibo (rubber piece with metal sleeves) is allowing the driveshaft to move forward and aft, perhaps I did not install it correctly from the start. Are there any diagrams of how the bolts are to be positioned? Thanks, John ![]()
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1986 190D, 2.5L, 5-speed swap, 180,000 Miles (60K by me). Jeep CJ-7 with Cummins 4BT/NV4500/AtlastII 4.3. Grand Wagoneer 4BT project in progress! Last edited by whunter; 03-09-2010 at 01:23 PM. Reason: removed bad link |
#2
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That is the first time I have heard the word "guibo" since I got rid of my Merkur XR4Ti and Scorpio
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01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke 99 E300 Turbodiesel 91 Vette with 383 motor 05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI 06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow 04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler 11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow |
#3
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Quote:
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1986 190D, 2.5L, 5-speed swap, 180,000 Miles (60K by me). Jeep CJ-7 with Cummins 4BT/NV4500/AtlastII 4.3. Grand Wagoneer 4BT project in progress! |
#4
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Ford, in it's infinite wisdom would not sell the guibo alone. So, if your guibo went out, you replaced the entire drive shaft. You could get the BMW unit which was exactly the same. I changed my drive shaft to use U-joints when I switched to a C4 trans because the C3 kept breaking.
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01 Ford Excursion Powerstroke 99 E300 Turbodiesel 91 Vette with 383 motor 05 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI 06 Polaris Sportsman 500 EFI 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Red 03 SeaDoo GTX SC Yellow 04 Tailgator 21 ft Toy Hauler 11 Harley Davidson 883 SuperLow |
#5
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"u" before "i" or...
I think MB's term of "Flexdisc" is better since we don't have to remember how to spell "GUIBO"!
John
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![]() ![]() 1978 280CE Astral Silver now 59,xxx miles and counting ![]() 1986 300E Black Pearl Metallic 143,xxx miles 5-spd daily driver w/ blk leather "Schwarz-Schönheit" 1989 190E 2.6 (euro) 5-spd Desert Taupe 112,xxx kms Had to leave behind in Germany!!! "Helga" 1983 300D Pastel Beige now 312,xxx + miles SOLD ![]() OBK#24 |
#6
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Just checked my replacement flexdisc, still looks great, but the (rubber-metal vibration dampener looking) thing that is between the driveshaft and flexdisc has a little play in it (fore and aft), almost like the bolts do not have enough threads. :puzzled: Any ideas?
Thanks, John
__________________
1986 190D, 2.5L, 5-speed swap, 180,000 Miles (60K by me). Jeep CJ-7 with Cummins 4BT/NV4500/AtlastII 4.3. Grand Wagoneer 4BT project in progress! |
#7
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Howdy, I just removed the bolts, what would cause just one to wear like this?
I searched all over this site and the net for flex disc, it seems to be quite the elusive procedure, with much debate over which way it should face, etc. Do I have the parts configured correctly? ![]() Here are pics. ![]() ![]() ![]() Thanks, any input would be helpful, John
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1986 190D, 2.5L, 5-speed swap, 180,000 Miles (60K by me). Jeep CJ-7 with Cummins 4BT/NV4500/AtlastII 4.3. Grand Wagoneer 4BT project in progress! |
#8
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I believe that gizmo is some balencer thing, My 240D 5 spd didn't have one but I have a friend with a euro 5 spd that had one. He discarded it when he went from the 4 spd it originally had to the 5 spd. I dont think you need it.
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![]() 1985 Euro 240D 5 spd 140K 1979 240D 5 spd, 40K on engine rebuild 1994 Dodge/Cummins, 5 spd, 121K 1964 Allice Chalmers D15 tractor 2014 Kubota L3800 tractor 1964 VW bug "Lifes too short to drive a boring car" |
#9
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It may not be critical.
This stinks though, what do y'all suggest... junkyard? New? ![]() Thanks again, John
__________________
1986 190D, 2.5L, 5-speed swap, 180,000 Miles (60K by me). Jeep CJ-7 with Cummins 4BT/NV4500/AtlastII 4.3. Grand Wagoneer 4BT project in progress! |
#10
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This identical issue happend on my car. Replace the flexdisk with a new one. I rotated the shaft balancer so that the DS and balancer's worn hole were not aligned. Added an additional washer on the balancer side and havent had a problem since then. BE VERY HAPPY you didnt sperate at speed. If so you would probably be looking for a new car. As it was mine separated on a 8lane (that is 8lanes per side) interstate during bumper to bumper traffic. I was in the middle lane and in flip flops. Also check you center carrier bearing and transmission mount. You will want make sure that you have the stiffest mount possible. The w123 has about 3 diff kinds. I can only imagine the 201/124 is similar. I would recommend replacing all of it down there while you are there.
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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg 1995 E420 Schwarz 1995 E300 Weiss #1987 300D Sturmmachine #1991 300D Nearly Perfect #1994 E320 Cabriolet #1995 E320 Touring #1985 300D Sedan OBK #42 |
#11
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Hmm...I think something is wrong here...
I've put up one of your pictures and drew in arrows, because I'm wondering where the bolts are that go inside those holes and into the rubber piece in front of it?
Did you take them out? There are supposed to be 3 bolts going through those three holes and into the next rubber piece, pulling the two together. You MAY have bolted it in wrong, unless I'm flat out wrong...but unless you took those bolts out already, and its completely different on a 300sd, I don't think I am. IF they were never there, this would probably account for the "sliding" that is occuring with the driveshaft moving forward.
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--------------------- 1974 240d "Peace, Love and Empathy" - Kurt Cobain 1982 300sd "It all depends upon the Benz!" - Me 1983 300sd 1985 500sel 1992 300se |
#12
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In this picture I edited, the GREEN arrows point to the holes that the hex head bolts are supposed to go through. They go through the round holes and then into the adjacent rubber piece to pull the two together.
The RED arrows point to the holes that you use to put the allen head bolts through. They go through those big holes (not meant to be tight, as the holes are large for the socket wrench) and through the next rubber piece, then into the "triangular" shaped metal piece that is on the tranny output shaft. It looks to me that you have all 6 bolts on that middle rubber piece. I'm pretty sure I'm correct, as I just finished putting in another tranny in my 300sd just last week and bolted up the driveshaft. I wouldn't imagine the two cars being any different as far as this issue is concerned. Anyone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong. I believe this info will help you immensely! And even if you have it right, at least I can confirm your questions about whether you have everything bolted up correctly! Good Luck!
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--------------------- 1974 240d "Peace, Love and Empathy" - Kurt Cobain 1982 300sd "It all depends upon the Benz!" - Me 1983 300sd 1985 500sel 1992 300se Last edited by bulletproofair; 11-02-2007 at 10:25 PM. |
#13
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not sure if this would help but heres some pics of my FD's
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the sooner you start... the sooner you'll get done ![]() ![]() ![]() 2007 Honda Accord EX 2007 Honda Accord SE V6 96 C220 97 Explorer - Found Another Home ![]() 2000 Honda Accord V6 - Found Another Home 85 300D - Found Another Home ![]() 84 300D - Found Another Home ![]() 80 300TD - Found Another Home ![]() Previous cars: 96 Caravan 87 Camry 84 Cressida 82 Vanagon 80 Fiesta 78 Nova Ford Cortina Opel Kadet 68 Kombi Contessa Last edited by whunter; 03-09-2010 at 01:17 PM. Reason: attached pictures |
#14
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Quote:
Ideally I should get a new front driveshaft piece wiht no worn holes, perhaps junkyards have them (as I cannot imagine they are cheap new), it came from a 2.3L gasser 5-speed.
__________________
1986 190D, 2.5L, 5-speed swap, 180,000 Miles (60K by me). Jeep CJ-7 with Cummins 4BT/NV4500/AtlastII 4.3. Grand Wagoneer 4BT project in progress! |
#15
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Look on the new flex disk
If there is the word "VORNE" on it (embossed or molded) that side faces to the front.
__________________
1987 300D (230,000 mi on a #14 head-watching the temp gauge and keeping the ghost in the machine) Raleigh NC - Home of deep fried sushi! |
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