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#1
05-12-2007, 03:57 PM
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Colder A/C!!!!!!!!!!!
I just finished a day of oil change,fixing the waste gate hose, fuel filter changes (all three), and I put in a brass ball valve in the heater line between the block and the fire wall.
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h145/hotwheelbill/coldac002.jpg http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h145/hotwheelbill/coldac001.jpg My thinking here is the same as I found out on my F350. Stop the water flow before it comes into the cab and not after, like the Mono valve on my 85' 300d. I had warm....hot air flow all the time and now it is ambient. I also refilled the A/C with R34 and when the compressor came on it was a horriable sound, then it locked up and the belt started burning. I have not worked on an A/C system in some time. Would this be the compressor or just the clutch??
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1985 300D burning WVO using 26 FPHE, half gallon heated fuel filter,glow plug heater,home made injection line heaters. Home made cold air induction. ALDA full out. 2003 F350 7.3(the last of the great motors) 1987 Paint Horse-non running too, just walks! 
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#3
05-12-2007, 04:13 PM
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One of many things on my list of to do. It lets the motor turn off with the key, vacume controlled.
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1985 300D burning WVO using 26 FPHE, half gallon heated fuel filter,glow plug heater,home made injection line heaters. Home made cold air induction. ALDA full out. 2003 F350 7.3(the last of the great motors) 1987 Paint Horse-non running too, just walks!
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#4
05-12-2007, 05:20 PM
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On your later model F-350s (99 and up) you can install a dual water vacuum valve between the engine and heater core. This allows the water to circulate without going to the heater core. Seems that Ford decided that the water should always flow through the heater core. I just 'T' off the vacuum source during hot weather and it allows the valve to go to bypass. The result is cooler cabin air.
Oh, yeah.....sounds like the compressor is locked. If you turn the A/C off and the pulley still does not spin, it could also have a bad clutch, but from what you describe, it sounds like the compressor. You might try bleeding the system or pulling it down totally. Sometimes they get too much oil from charging and lock up the compressor. Sometimes.....OK, not often, but it does happen......
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87 300SDL - 215K Miles !! 99 F-350CC Dually PSD - 190K 86 300SDL - 189K All on B-100
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#5
05-12-2007, 06:08 PM
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Disconnect the spade connectors to the clutch and see if it still smokes the belt. If not, it's the compressor.
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The Golden Rule 1984 300SD (bought new, sold it in 1988, bought it back 13 yrs. later)
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#6
05-13-2007, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
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1985 300D burning WVO using 26 FPHE, half gallon heated fuel filter,glow plug heater,home made injection line heaters. Home made cold air induction. ALDA full out. 2003 F350 7.3(the last of the great motors) 1987 Paint Horse-non running too, just walks!
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#7
05-13-2007, 08:19 AM
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clutch good....compressor bad
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#8
05-13-2007, 08:22 AM
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I know that this car had the system changed over from R12 TO R134 in the past. Will this make a differance in the compressor that I use? Here are the only two that I found on line................http://www.***************/search/product.aspx?sid=gpmdaenodrvbkbqzyhfevhm5&makeid=800016@Mercedes&modelid=1193790@300DT&year=1985&cid=24@AC%20%26%20Heat%20-%20Climate%20Control&gid=6628@AC%20Compressor
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1985 300D burning WVO using 26 FPHE, half gallon heated fuel filter,glow plug heater,home made injection line heaters. Home made cold air induction. ALDA full out. 2003 F350 7.3(the last of the great motors) 1987 Paint Horse-non running too, just walks!
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#9
05-13-2007, 08:32 AM
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I don't know where you live, but this sounds like a good opportunity to change the system back to R-12. I made the mistake of converting mine to R-134a several years ago, the cooling was marginal and the compressor failed after about 100K miles. I went back to R-12, big improvement.
I would avoid all the "alternative" coolants unless you have your own AC equipment or a shop that's willing service that stuff.
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#10
05-13-2007, 09:23 AM
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I did some reading on Parallel Flow Condensers, at http://www.ackits.com/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=01&Category_Code=Parallel , and I am thinking that I may change to that along with "Freeze 12".
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1985 300D burning WVO using 26 FPHE, half gallon heated fuel filter,glow plug heater,home made injection line heaters. Home made cold air induction. ALDA full out. 2003 F350 7.3(the last of the great motors) 1987 Paint Horse-non running too, just walks!
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#11
05-13-2007, 09:48 AM
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O.K. I just went out to look the car over again and see that the "conversion" that was done before was only a new R134 fitting but over the old one, still has the stock condenser. I hooked up the gauge and it read 45 lbs. I let it down to 30 lbs and started the motor, turned on the ac and it turns, but no cold air. I added just a touch of R134 and it killed the motor. Am I right in thinking that the leak may have also let the vacume out as well and that is why the psi grows so fast with just a little addition of R134?
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1985 300D burning WVO using 26 FPHE, half gallon heated fuel filter,glow plug heater,home made injection line heaters. Home made cold air induction. ALDA full out. 2003 F350 7.3(the last of the great motors) 1987 Paint Horse-non running too, just walks!
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