I've not replaced a lot of brakes, but even worse, I've not done one on my Benz yet. I've got to replace the pads and rotors all around (may have to replace on caliper altogether. We'll see when I get the baby off), and at least one sensor on my '85 300SD. So, naturally, I'm looking for instructions, links, advise...anything I can get my hands on.


Any help for the new guy?

Since they are four wheel disc brakes, it is really pretty easy. The Haynes manual (for the W123 series) has a pretty good explanation. But if you've done disc brakes before, on other cars, you should have no problems.

Also check out the DIY links. At the top.

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Sam

84 300SD 350K+ miles ( Blue Belle )

Thanks, I'll grab that. Never can have too much reference material.

That brings up a rabbit trail question that has bugged me for awhile. Why are there manuals for the 123 and not the 126? I'd give my right arm (or at least my custom made valve adjustment wrenches) for one.

higher production?

the fsm for the 126s is really good. many of the mechanical parts are the same on the 126 as on th 123. a huge amount of mechanical part sharing between the two chassis.

both are excellent and mechanic friendly.

the brakes are the easiest to work on of any car i have owned.

tom w

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

EXCEPT for those blasted 10mm allen head bolts holding on the rotor!
most other cars, just put the rotor over the lug nuts, and let them hold it on... other than that, they are indeed simple to work on.
John

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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread
"as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do!

My drivers:
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5Turbo
1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!!

1987 300TD
1987 300TD
1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere!

if brakes are draging or hoses look suspect
replace the hoses too

and even if the calipers are not changed
bleed out the old fluid once a year
or every time you work on the brakes
as old fluid is a prime cause of sticking leaking calipers and masters

A little heat on the rotor, near the bolts will also soften the loc-tite.

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RRGrassi


70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car

13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete.

91 W124 300D Turbo replaced, Pressure W/G actuator installed. 210K

90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K

Does a 1982 300SD use a 10 mm Allen Screw to secure the rotors, or is this present in the '85+SDL only.

Visited my rotors a few weekends ago and could not get them off.

Emergency brakes function fine, and hold at 3 clicks.

Just put on new brake pads, and brake hose.

However, I could not get my rotor's off. The fitting that I saw, may have been an allen screw seemed to be devoid of any flat surfaces that might allow an allen wrench any purchase?

I backed away from the task until I had more information.

Advice please!

Attached Thumbnails

     

No, no screw on the rear rotors, you'll need to make sure the e-brake is off, then tap in strategic areas, should come off.

Dex, the front rotors are held on with a split nut. You'll have to re-install the outer bearing.

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83 SD

84 CD

Do you really think Dex has been waiting for that information…for five years?

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.

How about the bolt and washer at the center of the hub? Does it need to come off?

Assuming tha that the question refers to the rear brake rotor, no. You don't want to touch that screw.

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When cryptography is outlawed, bayl bhgynjf jvyy unir cevinpl.