Interchangeability of cruise actuators?

[2.5Turbo]

I think my cruise actuator is no good on my 300D. When setting a speed, instead of finding a suitable throttle position, it floors it and then lets off to idle about once every second resulting in an unpleasant neck snapping action . The amp was replaced with a new one a little while back, and I know it's good. After noticing this condition, I unplugged the actuator so I wouldn't risk frying my new amp. I'm going to go browse some parts yards tomorrow because I really don't want to spend $300 on a superficial thing like cruise. So therefore, my question is are the actuators from the 123, 126, 201, and late 107 the same as the VDO one in my 124? It looks like they are according to Fastlane...but just making sure.

[dieseldiehard]

Originally Posted by 2.5Turbo

I think my cruise actuator is no good on my 300D. When setting a speed, instead of finding a suitable throttle position, it floors it and then lets off to idle about once every second resulting in an unpleasant neck snapping action . The amp was replaced with a new one a little while back, and I know it's good. After noticing this condition, I unplugged the actuator so I wouldn't risk frying my new amp. I'm going to go browse some parts yards tomorrow because I really don't want to spend $300 on a superficial thing like cruise. So therefore, my question is are the actuators from the 123, 126, 201, and late 107 the same as the VDO one in my 124? It looks like they are according to Fastlane...but just making sure.

I don't know about the 107 but the 201, 123, 124 and 126 all use the same VDO actuator but it may be fitted to different brackets, its not a big deal to remount one from another vehicle onto your bracket if necessary.
The actuators take a beating, everytime you press the accelerator (even with the cruise OFF) the internal variable resistor element wears some. Eventually it wears thru and then the amplifier module gets no or flaky information on the position of the accelerator rack. I've not had any luck buying used actuators.
That model you have has the actuator pretty well buried, doesn't it! I believe you will find removing the IP lines makes it easier to replace and I'm not certain but the intake manifold might be in the way, too. I just looked at my 124 its in need of a new actuator and wow what a job compared to the 123 and 126's I have worked on they are a snap with it sitting up top and easy to get to.. It would be a let down to install an unknown actuator only to find its bad.

Use a search for General Development Labs for a place that can test them and possibly repair them, although the last one I sent them was unrepairable and I had to fork out for a new one. They also repair and calibrate the amplifiers if that becomes necessary.
Also be certain the fuses are all newer type (copper colored) and clean the pins on the plug that fits both the actuator and the amplifier modules to be certain you don't have a simple intermittent contact.

[2.5Turbo]

Nope, it was probably one of the easiest parts to get to in the engine compartment . Maybe they changed it sometime between 87 and 90 because it's bolted right to the side of the intake manifold on my car. Three minutes, one linkage, and four 10mm bolts later, it was in my hands. Unplug and route through the mess of vacuum lines and it's out. Although I've heard it's a real dog to get out on the gassers.

Thanks for the info; it's good to know they're all the same.

I'll see what I can find. The yard I'm going to has a return policy, so if I get a bad one I'll just take it back. Might grab a few depending on how much they want, and on how many MB's there are there .

[babymog]

602s are easy, 603s are a pita.