Tie Rod R&R - whole thing or just the end? - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

dieseldan44 · #1 06-05-2007, 05:45 PM

Good evening,

Both of my outer tie rod ends are shot. The grease boots are cracked. The inner tie rod end grease boot look fine, and look newer than the outer ones.

Should I replace the whole tie rod assembly, or just the outer ties rod ends? Is one job much harder than the other?

Is there a good DIY around for the tie rods here? Couldn't find one in a search thus far.

Thanks as always,
dd

whunter · #2 06-05-2007, 05:55 PM

IMO, this is more logical, and easier.

MB# 123 330 18 03
Fastlane: Tie Rod Assembly
http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1621825

Have a great day.

pleiades · #3 06-05-2007, 05:59 PM

http://www.dieselgiant.com/mercedes%20tie%20rod%20rr1.htm decent writeup, except forget all that pickle fork stuff and just whack where the ends mount with a big hammer

tie rod emergency (just did the job last night\this morning, but only with the help of this forum)

dieseldan44 · #4 06-05-2007, 06:35 PM

I understand now - whole new ones on the way.

Whats the best way to get the tie rods close so that I can make it to the alignment shop w/o running off the road? Is it as easy as making them the same length as the old ones? Never touched tie rods...sorry for the newbieness...

Surf-n-Turf · #5 06-05-2007, 06:47 PM

From my experience, you can get them kinda close by measuring. Make sure you adjust the inner and outer out. In other words, don't just adjust one or the other. Adjust both equally. After installation, drive the car a little and look at the front tires for straightness. If an alignment shop is close by you should have no problems.

AdvisorGuy · #6 06-05-2007, 08:39 PM

Doing the same thing myself this weekend. When I did my brakes a few weeks ago, I found the right outer boot long gone and the tie rod joint rusted. $32 for the complete inner,outer & sleeve assembly from my local parts source.

toomany MBZ · #7 06-05-2007, 11:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieseldan44

I understand now - whole new ones on the way.

Whats the best way to get the tie rods close so that I can make it to the alignment shop w/o running off the road? Is it as easy as making them the same length as the old ones? Never touched tie rods...sorry for the newbieness...

Once out of car, compare by eye. Equal threads each side as best as you can tell. Loosen thread clamps, easy to ID, when you're looking at a new one, adjust, install, drive to align shop, you'll be ok.

t walgamuth · #8 06-06-2007, 07:07 AM

i have gotten close enough sometimes by just counting threasds carefully. but this does not work every time.

an alignment if you have good tires is probably money well spent.

tom w

tobybul · #9 03-22-2009, 05:38 PM

Old thread but.....

Since boot repair kits are available, if the inside of the tie rod has no rust and still pivots ok, its much cheaper to just pull out the assembly and replace the boots.

Just do not disturb the assembly adjustment. You should be able to just reattach the assembly back to the car and not need an alignment.

I think thats a significance savings since alignment alone can run between $50-$200.

whunter · #10 03-22-2009, 10:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tobybul

Old thread but.....

Since boot repair kits are available, if the inside of the tie rod has no rust and still pivots OK, its much cheaper to just pull out the assembly and replace the boots.

Just do not disturb the assembly adjustment.
You should be able to just reattach the assembly back to the car and not need an alignment.

Correct.

Sadly, most owners do not notice boot damage until after corrosion wrecks the joint.

tobybul · #11 03-23-2009, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whunter

Correct.

Sadly, most owners do not notice boot damage until after corrosion wrecks the joint.

Roy, can you please post the Fastlane link of the boot kit. Thanks

whunter · #12 03-23-2009, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tobybul

Roy, can you please post the Fastlane link of the boot kit. Thanks

http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=0003300485

Tie rod and Drag link boot kit, six per car.
MB# 0003300485

Confirmed 220 kits in North America (March-23-2009).

Chassis application list:

W107
W108
W109
W110
W111
W113
W114
W115
W116
W123
W124
W126

http://catalog.peachparts.com/item.wws?sku=0003300485

NOTE – All prices on special order parts subject to change without notice.

FOR PARTS SALES THAT SUPPORT THIS FORUM CONTACT:

tobybul · #13 03-28-2009, 08:40 PM

Just replaced the boots of 5 tie rod ends this afternoon. Good thing I caught them just in time b4 water got in there and rust forming. There was still a decent amount of grease in them but the boots were torn.

Just popped off the tie rod assembly and replaced boots. Its a bit of a messy job because of the old and new grease. I wiped off the old grease and replaced with new grease. Inserted the bootwith the top ring on.

The most difficult part is installing the round spring at the lower part. The new spring is tough to put on. I ended up using 3 old springs and 2 new ones.

Reinstalled the assemblies to the cars. No alignment required.

Got the boot kits from Fastlane. Sorry, didn't take any pics.

running-snail · #14 03-29-2009, 08:31 AM

Great suggestion Tobybul, given the cost of an alignment. How are you removing the tie rod ends? Hammer method? Puller? I'm guessing not a pickle fork.

This seems like a great preventative maintenance measure, for those who are "looking" for parts needing attention!

tobybul · #15 03-29-2009, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by running-snail

Great suggestion Tobybul, given the cost of an alignment. How are you removing the tie rod ends? Hammer method? Puller? I'm guessing not a pickle fork.

This seems like a great preventative maintenance measure, for those who are "looking" for parts needing attention!

RS, I used this tool (left photo). I bought this a while back. Its great for removing tie rods and ball joints plus it will not damage the boot if thats what u r trying to do. If you plan to keep your MB's for a while and like to do your own work, I would definitely add this to your arsenal of tools.

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/OTC-7315A.html

I also have this tool just for ball joints (right photo). Works great too.

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/TA-61900.html

I am not a fan of the fork