how would i get the air into the cylinder? I don't have an adaptor that would fit, besides, isnt that just the reverse way of testing the compression with a compression testor?

After spending hours on the phone I may have found an IP out of B.C. for $400 and with a 30 day warranty, and this is off a turbo car. so thats good

Basicly I am waiting for tomorrow to see what the compression test results bring.

I'm kinda hoping that the bang he said was mabey a backfire or something not serious? But I still have to keep the fact in the back of my mind that when I turned the engine over with the oil cap unlocked and sitting on the valve cover it kept wanting to blow the cap off, and did so twice, So it really is up to what the compression test reveils.

I know there is not supposed to be alot of blow-by when running, but what about when starting/cranking the engine over? Would a whole in the piston cause that blow-by or would it be a valve, or is it even normal for that much blow-by when cranking?

Ok, here are the results of my compression test:

Cylinder #1 220
2 215
3 215
4 220
5 170 (230 after oil put into cylinder)

The Piston must have been stuck on the 5th output of the IP but isn't stuck now, they are all shooting the same.

When I took the injectors out, there was no heat shield installed in the first cylinder, the rest were there. All the injectors were bench tested with a spray around 200PSI with a good spray pattern except for the one out of the second cylinder which had no spray until it hit 340PSI, then it just shot out in a very pronounced line.

What do you guys think?

Car has been siting for a long time. Compression values and cylinder sealing may improve with running. Glad your injection pump loosened up.
Get it started to find out what you really have.
Either get another used injector or have the odd one done. May just be gunked up internally. Glad there was not a hole in a piston. Your cranking blow by sounded serious enough. On the otherhand this engine has been inactive for quite a few years and that may account for it.
Your present compression is just on the borderline for self starting it seems. Plug block heater in if you can a few hours before trying to start the first time.
As for the amount of blowby when cranking. You just have the compressive forces for the rings to deal with. Running presents a much greater pressure. You might want to consider dumping some marvel mystery oil in the cylinders for a few days with the block heater on. It may improve nothing. On the otherhand it is cheap and a penatrating oil as well. If rings are rusted or stuck a little it might help.
Then do your second compression check before installing the injectors again. . Compression might come up a little as well. Has this car ever been on vegatable oil to your knowledge?

Also, for starting, you may want to look into tow starting it for the first time. That's something I've seen recommended around here a lot.
You basically get going at about 30 MPH and then do a few glow cycles and put it in S.
It should crank some and then start. Do a search, and wait for another member to confirm this (I have been known to be completely wrong on occasion)

__________________
1984 300DT turbo 138k mi

Still hauling me to school and back.

Handy Site:
http://www.dieselgiant.com/

ok, I will try and find some marvel tomorrow. How do those numbers sound? Some guys say that it won't run under 250#? I just rebuilt that one injector and put it back on the bench and it works great, just waiting for those heat shields to come in. Someone here once told me to remove the heat shields after taking out the injectors before cranking the motor, now I know why!!!

That towing thing sounds ok to try, and I know it's in the owners manual but I'm kinda thinking old school and remember that it's not good to tow an automatic for any length of time?

Any-who, we will see what happens tomorrow.

Oh, I found this in with my owners manual:

EXCHANGE ENGINE WARRANTY REGISTRATION CARD
Apparently it had a new engine, serial #617950-12-805455 put in on 14 September 1988 at 84,705 miles which means that the motor should technically only have 59,795 miles on it right now!!!

If you do a search, the tow start has no negative effects if you do it right, just search around for like 10 minutes and read the various warnings members have posted, and check what the manual says.

From my experience (which isn't much, but hey), those numbers look pretty good for an engine that has been sitting for some time.
You can get them up by putting on a block heater, and heating it while soaking it in MMO (the heating gives you a much better effect).
The numbers will really get back in the normal operating range when you get the engine running, thus I advised a tow start. You have to find some way to tow it, but it does work.

__________________
1984 300DT turbo 138k mi

Still hauling me to school and back.

Handy Site:
http://www.dieselgiant.com/

If I can't find Marvel, do you think I could use that sea foam stuff? I have used it on other things and it seems to kick um...but!!!

Seafoam is not a lubricant.

You can use straight 30wt oil.

ok, so the idea is to bathe it in oil to loosen it up then, how much oil should I put in per cylinder? and do I have to worry about "hydro-locking the cylinder if I put to much in?

Ok, Ive done everything!!!, There seems to be enough compression to start, all injectors tested good, new heat shields, all glow plugs work, timming ok, fuel out of IP, BUT IT STILL WON'T START!!!

We tried pull starting, but couldn't even get it to turn over???

PLEASE HELP, It's getting close to the field in the back yard!!

How did you try to pull start it?

The manual for mine says you should put it in neutral, put key in run position (for glowplugs), get it moving at 20 MPH (with a cold tranny), and the put it in S and push down the accelerator all the way to start. If it doesn't fire in a few seconds, put it back in N to protect the tranny, glow for a minute or 2, and do it all again.

I don't see how you could have done this and had the engine not turn over. Did you try to get it moving while in gear or something?

I can see it turning over and not starting, but unless I'm drastically off, you couldn't follow this procedure without the engine at least turning over.

__________________
1984 300DT turbo 138k mi

Still hauling me to school and back.

Handy Site:
http://www.dieselgiant.com/

I am so dumb!!!! I forgot the owners manual at home, so when I went to pull start it I wen't by what I remembered reading (not a good idea) I did all the steps the way the manual says except for the neutral thing for 2 minutes, I hope I didn't toast the tranny!!!

Anyway, not a concern right now. I continued to try and start it tonight by cranking it over with the starter. Now it sounds like its going to fire, and almost catches everyonce in a while, but only when i got my foot to the floor, when I take my foot off the pedel it stops catching and reverts back to just cranking. Oh, while my foot is to the floor there is puffs of brown/grey smoke out the exhaust and it smells like burnt diesel.

Just wondering what would happen if i started to mess around with turning/adjusting the IP?

oh, and the serious blow-by I was experiencing earlier while cranking has now almost stopped.

Any ideas greatly appreated

Is the IP timed correctly? Are you getting fuel out of each one of the hard lines?
Do you get good oil pressure when cranking?

__________________
1984 300DT turbo 138k mi

Still hauling me to school and back.

Handy Site:
http://www.dieselgiant.com/

I think the IP is timed right, I can;t see it moving from when the guy was driving it before it broke down. It's really hard for me to check the IP timing with my broken hand so I am leaving it for the very last thing to do.

There is now fuel comming out each of the lines.

and there was oil preasure when cranking, depending on how long I cranked, it usually was around the middle of the oil preasure guage.

ok, it started!!!! WOO-HOO

I got it to run for about 3 seconds with alot of white smoke. When it quit I started to crank it over again, about 30 seconds later the starter motor just stopped turning. Now the starter won't even enguage, it clicked a couple of times, but now it wont even do that. I checked both the ground a posative conections and they seem to be tight.

Is there a fusable link somewhere? The starter was extreamly hot.

Any help??