Same as you...my hose was'nt fully seated about an eighth inch as well. I could have tightened it more but did'nt feel right about going any further. It just felt like it was enough already. I imagined you could strip it and have to cut it and start again or worse yet ...break one of the fittings?

Yeah, with the banjo fitting end I stopped after I stripped a couple flats; with the other one, I was using a six-point socket, so stripping wasn't a problem, but when I was heaving with all my weight on a 2' breaker bar I decided I was pushing my luck. I was afraid of snapping the fitting.

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1981 Mercedes 300TD, 1994 Honda Civic Del Sol
http://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/67195.pnghttp://mefi.us/images/fuelly/smallsig-us/103885.png

Very strange indeed.

I did it exactly as you have done, in every detail - and mine is making an awful noise.

I haven't made any special effort to bleed the pump, but it doesn't sound like air; it is a constant low-frequency pitch that grows in pitch and volume with the RPMs.

The new hose does seem somewhat longer than the old hose, I must admit. I don't understand why, because it was carefully measured after the old hose.

As I mounted the new hose, I had a moment of doubt about the routing between the grommet and the point where it exits from the narrow gap between the alternator and block. There is a transmission cooler hose crossing at that place, and the SLS hose can go both right and left of it. I finally concluded that it must have been routed between the transmission hose and the engine block, since otherwise, it would have to be kinked more than good is. I tried the other routing, and it ended up touching the transmission hose, so I discarded that option.

I don't really know what to believe. We are at least 3, and probably a few more, who have experienced noise. My feeling is that some hose constructions/material simply don't work (I am not using the Gates 6G2 hose, but something close). Or it is a resonance phenomenon that depends critically on the length.

/Viggo

Btw. how many mounting supports/brackets do you have for that hose?

I have one welded to the banjo fitting, or just below it, which I believe was attached to the pump house, and another halfway under the oil pan, or in front if it. This is a ring with a rubber grommet. Apart from those two, I only have the two end fittings themselves.

/Viggo

US models route the hose in a completely different manner. Hose goes across the front and top of the engine, never down. Maybe that is the difference causing your problems.

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1977 300d 70k--sold 08
1985 300TD 185k+
1984 307d 126k--sold 8/03
1985 409d 65k--sold 06
1984 300SD 315k--daughter's car
1979 300SD 122k--sold 2/11
1999 Fuso FG Expedition Camper
1993 GMC Sierra 6.5 TD 4x4
1982 Bluebird Wanderlodge CAT 3208--Sold 2/13

Ok, wait a minute - which model are you talking about? W123 or W124?

Mine is a W124, M103, 300E

If yours is a W123, then I think that accounts for the different routing, not the US vs. Europe.

But is it so, that all of us with noise are W124 owners, and all of you without are w123 owners. Then we are sort of comparing pears and apples.

/Viggo

No more fuzz, and no more buzz!

I got a second hand original hose, cheap and in excellent condition - noise gone!

What a test! I had received photos of the hose and the fittings, got it measured, confirmed that it came from a W124 M103. Nothing could go wrong - I thought.

Just about to install it, I realized that the banjo fitting, which otherwise looked very much like the original, long with two bents and a welded bracket, was actually bent very differently. I was prepared to give up, but gave it a chance, as I could see that, despite the different shape, it had the same distance between the hole in the bracket and the banjo head. So it could be a compatible fitting.

And luckily it was. The banjo pipe went behind the Power Steering outlet insted of in front, but there was exactly space for it, loosening the Power Steering fitting a bit and turning it a few degrees.

Sometimes, you are just damn lucky.

/Viggo

Thanks for this tip guys!!!!!! Picked up some 3/8 4000PSI Gates hose from my local Oreilly Auto parts and had a replacement made up in less than an hr. Much less than the $160 The Benz house wants.

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Shane Lowrance
1991 350SDL parting out.

1884 300TD 173K miles. Champagne w/ Palomino interior and third row seating.

North Texas.

Anyone know if the same goes for the SLS hose from the wheel well to the back suspension?

Isn't it nice not having the rear bumper and muffler dragging the ground and the front end not pointing skyward?

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Codifex
1981 240D ChinaBlue (Got her running with a donor engine.)
1983 300DTurbo w/sunroof.
1984 300TD manual sunroof. (Electrical Gremlins)

I wanted to add that I recently blew my high pressure sls line on a road trip (1985 300td). Purchasing new line wasn't an option so I cut off 8" of the old line and reinstalled the fitting on the pump side of the hose. It is incredibly difficult to get the fittings on and nearly impossible to do it right with the old line! After cutting off the bad part of hose and redoing the fittings the line blew again after only a few miles. Don't waste time doing it this way!

I went to a tractor supply store and found 3/8 4000psi line and cut the ends off and used that in place of the old rubber. When I blew out the line the 2nd time I lost several of those plastic bits inside the line including the red one on the end. I put what I had back in the line and put a cap on one insert to replace the red one. The red one has no hole in it like the other white bits inside the original line. I drove this car fully loaded across the country and the line held up this way. My suggestion is simple do not use the old hose it's faster and easier to replace the line.

Recycled for new member

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ASE Master Mechanic
https://whunter.carrd.co/

Prototype R&D/testing:
Thermal & Aerodynamic System Engineering (TASE) Senior vehicle instrumentation technician.
Noise Vibration and Harshness (NVH).
Dynamometer.
Heat exchanger durability.
HV-A/C Climate Control.
Vehicle build.
Fleet Durability
Technical Quality Auditor.
Automotive Technical Writer

1985 300SD
1983 300D
2003 Volvo V70

https://www.boldegoist.com/

Just an update this worked! its 3/8" / 9.5mm I.D., not a hard job, just hard to find hose these days. But I got it in and the car rides much better now!
Good luck to you guys

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Current Fleet:

‘97 S320 Black LWB - Sold
‘85 300TD - Sold #wagonlifeordie
‘79 300SD - Sold
‘84 300D Anthracite Grey Metallic - Sold
‘80 300D 100k mi - Sold
‘77 280E Gold - Sold

That should be enough. The system only gets to 185 bar ~= 2700 PSI.

If you don't feel comfortable selecting the right hose then go to a hydraulic supply store. Aeroquip or Parker supplied stores will gladly sell you the hose and might install the fittings for you.

My om603 SLS hose is originally an Aeroquip hose. My local Aeroquip shop (Advanced Fluid Connections in Glen Burnie, MD) is amazing. But my 617 SLS hose I bought at a Farm and Tractor Supply. They were also very helpful.

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Onus probandi incumbit ei qui dicit, non ei qui negat

I recondition w123/w126/w124/w140/r107/r129/ steering boxes!


1984 300D "Elsa" odo reset 6/2011 147k
1983 300TD "Mitzi" ~268k OM603 powered
1995 E300 "Adelheid" 262k [Sold]

I used this thread to repair the H.P. power steering hose in my 84 300D, since has the same "field replaceable" fittings as the SLS hose. I used "2-wire" (steel) hydraulic hose (3000 psig rated). Re-read all pages, since I recall it was stated many times. You can buy at Tractor Supply, hydraulic shops, ..., I bought on ebay. BTW, the factory hose did not have steel wire and was seeping in the middle. Those plastic "damping" discs inside are much discussed and I think used in other vehicles w/ long hoses. Of course, doesn't apply to short p.s.

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1984 & 1985 CA 300D's
1964 & 65 Mopar's - Valiant, Dart, Newport
1996 & 2002 Chrysler minivans