Removing window trim

[JHZR2]

Hello,

I would like to know how to remove the side window trim on a w123. I am not talking about the side squeegees, which have instructions that can be searched for... but rather the chrome around the other three sides of the window.

My 85 has a scratch on the two chrome pieces and the two side windows... I can replace it with parts from my 83 (theoretically).

How tough is it to remove the whole side window???

Thanks!

JMH

[Rashakor]

Never did it on the W123, but on the w116 you need to remove the window, the regulator channels and the velvet windows channels then you unscrews the aluminum triming from inside the channels. It is actually a very time consuming process because you pretty much have to take the doors apart. I suspect the W123 trim is exactly the same.

That trim is the first thing to go on the door upon assembly line after painting the door skins.

[JHZR2]

OK, well I did it... didnt have a chance to take pics, because though Im doing it on my 83 that is unrepairable and Im looking to sell for all the 100% mechanical parts, I still needed the glass and trim to be 100% for transfer into my other car.

So... to begin, the door skins need to be removed, then the vapor barrier opened.

What I found was that it is best to start with the window all of the way down. With the window down, it is very easy to remove the squeege strips that are on the outside and inside.

For the front window, removal of the squeege is easy, it just comes up (though some of the clips holding the aluminum trim/squeege assembly can be tenacious). For the rear window, a bit more care must be taken, as the rearward most clip for the outside squeege is underneath of the small, non-movable quarter window seal in the back door, and you could theoretically tear it.

So, once the squeege strips are removed, the window can move aound more... be careful! For the front window, undo the one bolt that you can see that attaches the window to the jaws of the window lift. for the rear window, both bolts that attach the window to the lift are visible in the down position. Remove the bolt. For the front window, move it up about 2/3 of the way until the similar bolt for the rear attachment point is visible, and remove it. It would be best to use a u-joint on a short socket, because it is not a straight shot, and the bolt will strip somewhat.

Now, for the front window, you can now get it out, and in fact now is the preferable time to remove it. For the rear window, there are a few more steps. It is useful to have another person on hand for this step, because for my windows (even with both squeege strips looking nice and like new), the channel of metal to which the bottom of the window sits (wth a rubber holder) was rusted and thus distorted quite significantly on both windows. These parts are worth replacement while in there, because it makes sense that they would have stagnant water on them when the car is wet. The problem is that when these areas rust, they 'grow' and become wider, and so have a tough time clearing the gap in the door skin for the window!

So, with two people, remove the front window. Depending upon the condition of the window seal, it could be removed first, but it is not necessary. What is necessary is to have the window low in the door and tilted on one corner or the other to get it out. The reason why the glass can be removed in the front door and not the rear at thsi stage is because of the extra space in the front door to do this tilting.

Pull glass out, then pull down on window channel rubber and remove it all the way around. Now, you can see the raised inner lip of the aluminum window trim. It is easy to grab with a flat screwdriver and start to remove without harming the paint. There is some gunk between the paint and trim to consider, though; it looks like almost the consistency of separated antisieze.

So, for the rear window, more steps must be made prior to removing the glass. With the glass unbolted and in the bottom, begin removing the rear quarter window. This is necessary for enough clearance to get the glass out, since the rear door is cut out around the wheelwell. On the inner door skin, there are two small bolts that attach the alminum channel that separates the mobile window from the immobile quarter window. Undo the bolts for the upper and lower portions of this channel on the door skin, then look up at the top of the window arch in the door, there is one more screw to remove.

With the channel disconnected, you need to segregate it from the rubber seal of the rear quarter window, then pull it off. Take care removing it from the door, since it can hit stuff inside. Next, pull with friction between your hands and the glass, to get the glass to pull out from the seal, and the seal out from the door. This will be tricky part for reinstallation, since this glass needs to be wedged in tightly with the glass, but the glass must be removed, so the seal does too. Be patient, itll come out.

With the quarter glass out, there is space to move, and it will be possible to pull the rear door glass out. On my car, the ear glass metal connector (on the bottom edge, that connects it to the lift) was more rusted than the front door. It took much more care to get this one out, compared to the front, but with two pople and slow working it, it came out.

From there, you can see the raised lip from which the metal trim can be removed.

I had the door skins off already, and so all in all, it took about an hour for both wndows on one side.

On the new car, ill try to take pictures, so that it can be documented. Ill need to be much more careful regarding the paint on the new car (not that I really damaged the paint on my old one when doing this), so itll be good to work even slower!

Hope this helps someone... it seems that door squeeges and seals are very important, judging by the rust on the window's bottom support. though the door and everything else inside was rust free, you can tell that it can be damp in there, so please consider!!!

Best,

JMH