What do you think of this 300SD? V. Looking to buy - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

BigBadJohn · #1 08-07-2007, 01:19 PM

http://stlouis.craigslist.org/car/390106164.html

300SD with 239K miles
For sale by a dealership. They want $2K
I want to see about test driving it today if I can manage to find the place

What do you think?
What are some things to look for when test driving?
Im thinking about doing a wvo conversion

Thanks

rrgrassi · #2 08-07-2007, 01:25 PM

I would say $1000 given the listed issues.

Check all fluids for proper level and coloring, watch for any pulling when driving. RUST RUST RUST...check for that especially at the jacking points, floor pans, etc. Check the locks for operation. Beware of "A/C only needs a charge". Diesels do make noise, so if you are not familiar with a diesel, have a pre purchase inspection done. The untrained ear usually cannot tell diesel klatta klatta klatta from actual problems.

That is a w126 chassis, and other w126 owners can tell you more, since I own a w123. That era though, the w126 and w123 used the same engine and other parts.

Check blowby

Jim B. · #3 08-07-2007, 01:37 PM

Take a look at the "buyers guide" for the W126 chassis. It is for gas coupes, but still a lot would apply to the diesel sedan in general for these:

www.mbcoupes.com

BigBadJohn · #4 08-07-2007, 01:54 PM

He did tell me the a/c doesnt doesnt want to run at all. He didnt play stupid if thats what youre saying. (I dont really care anyway since I just roll the windows down, which Ill probably fix myself)
Any no brainer ways to try and tell an engine is up to snuff?

TX76513 · #5 08-07-2007, 02:16 PM

Look for rust, especially underneath if you are going to be a DIY owner. Rust makes every minor repair to the drive train, rack and suspension a nightmare. Click on the W126 Link for some common issues when looking at W126's here

mespe · #6 08-07-2007, 02:20 PM

Couple things for the engine,,

1) does it start easily, first time you crank after the glow plug light turns off
2) with engine running remove oil filler cap and let it rest on the hole, does it bounce around?
3) does it smoke when you start it up, if so what color?

numbers one and three could be minor issues, i.e. valve adjustment, burned out glow plug,

But number two is important, as blow-by indicates worn something or other.

Also look for oil in the air intake filter area, could also indicate blow-by.

Can you feel the turbo kick in? I really can't but I know it's kicking in because I can tell from teh acceleration, these car's aren't slow by no means, there not rockets, but should beat a chevette.

good luck

toomany MBZ · #7 08-07-2007, 03:33 PM

I'll agree with rrgrassi on the price. I paid $2100 for mine with 184k on the working odo. Having a hard time with the color tho. The windows could be a plastic "slider", if you can hear the motor turn. The passenger sides don't work on mine, I can hear the rear, have replaced the switch, still no dice on the front. The ride is head and shoulders above the 123's. Interior is inferior, rattles, squeaks the door pulls are a problem area, easily repaired. Same engine, a little different plumbing, ele. When test driving, come to a sudden stop, in a safe place, of course, and listen for any clunks mostly up front. Do a slolom in a parking lot, listen for more clunks. You should be able to tell if new shocks are in order. Check front end for worn tie rod ends, ball joints, etc anything obvious. Crawl underneath, better put on a lift and inspect. Did anyone mention rust? Check trunk area too. I can't tell in the pic, is the front tow door hook open, if so, why? I can feel the turbo come on, acceleration with very little throttle input around 2400 rpm.

vstech · #8 08-07-2007, 03:41 PM

if a DEALERSHIP is only asking 2K for it, something major is wrong. find out what.
have a compression check done. be sure it is COLD and start it without glowplugs, it should start in less than 10 seconds in the summer, and less than 20 in the winter. pull the U tube off the front of the turbo and personally inspect the play in the turbo wheel. (motor off of course!!!) there should be NO in out play, and only slight up down/side to side play. there should not be oil in the tube or on the turbine.
"shift firm" could be a bad thing, find out what is meant by it. the shifting should be smooth and solid, not jerky or slipping.

rrgrassi · #9 08-07-2007, 03:54 PM

Not running means a different ball game. $500 max. Could be new/used engine time. No running means no test drive, so you will have no idea what shape the tranny, driveline and suspension are in.

BigBadJohn · #10 08-07-2007, 04:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rrgrassi

Not running means a different ball game. $500 max. Could be new/used engine time. No running means no test drive, so you will have no idea what shape the tranny, driveline and suspension are in.

Meant he said the a/c doesnt wanna run. He said the blower works but no cool air comes out

rrgrassi · #11 08-07-2007, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigBadJohn

Meant he said the a/c doesnt wanna run. He said the blower works but no cool air comes out

Oh, ok. Could be a locked up compressor. Typical for this type of compressor on these cars.

BigBadJohn · #12 08-07-2007, 04:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rrgrassi

Oh, ok. Could be a locked up compressor. Typical for this type of compressor on these cars.

I could probably find one in a salvage yard if its shot

rrgrassi · #13 08-07-2007, 04:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigBadJohn

I could probably find one in a salvage yard if its shot

It's a GM type R-4. You are better off buy a new/rebuilt one. That compressor is the one that is known for failing. I worked at a Cadillac dealer in Plano, TX in 1983 for a summer job as an apprentice. I cannot tell you how many of those I replaced during that summer.

The A/C system is not too bad to work on (there are exceptions though like evaporator and expansion valve on the SD). I did the one on my 300D, with a brand new compressor, new drier, new pressure and aux fan switch, new expansion valve, oil freon and flush for under $400.

Phil · #14 08-07-2007, 04:55 PM

As stated before look for blow by and rust, if that checks out then the big issue is the A/C. If you can do A/C work yourself it might not be so bad but if you take it to a shop it could get $$$. A lot of things on these cars can be fixed if you are willing to do it yourself.

#15 08-07-2007, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vstech

if a DEALERSHIP is only asking 2K for it, something major is wrong. find out what.

I agree, a dealer will usually want $5000 for anything that will move. It's not worth their trouble unless they can make about $2000 on the deal. I would start by finding out what "higher mileage" means.