Hi all, Im in the middle of changing belts,hoses and T-stat and rad.flush on my 82 300D. I want replace the bypass hose that runs from the water pump to the T-stat housing. Do I need to remove the water pump? or remove the T-stat housing? I beleave my water pump is good so I hate to pull it If i dont have to. Also does the T-stat housing have a gasket where it mounts to the head or how does it seal? Will I need a new seal or gasket when I pull either one off? Thanks Tom 82 300D

There is no need to remove the water pump. just the thermostat housing. There is a gasket between the housing and the head. It's a really easy job.

VICTOR REINZ Thermostat Housing Gskt.,W0133-1643897 - PeachParts

COOL!! Thanks for the help. Tom

I need to do the same thing. Sounds fairly straight forward.

Anyone know the torque for the thermostat housing bolts when re-assembling?

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'85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit)
'82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car
'83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car

The 617.95 service manual does not specify a torque value for the housing-to-head bolts. It lists 9-11 Nm for the thermostat cover bolts, however.

Be extremely careful when removing the bolts from the t-stat housing for cover removal. Some of them are exposed to the coolant and all can easily be twisted off, if some time with PB blaster is not taken. I was lucky when I had my incident, as the damage was repaired by an 'industrial strength' welder at the old place of business.

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1961 190Db retired
1968 220D/8 325,000
1983 300D 164,150

I remember being on a road trip as a kid and seeing my dad buy a small carton of milk for the waxed paper so he could replace the thermostat gasket after puling a stuck thermostat.


To prevent leaking, I tend to scrape mine down to bare metal as well as I can, and then use Aviation gasket cement or High Tack gasket cement on the gasket going on.
Yes, the adhesive makes it more work to remove the gasket next time I do the job, but I have had no problems with leakage around a gasket that I've used the cement on.

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-Josh
Testing the cheap Mercedes axiom, one bolt at a time...

When I installed the new engine, I used Permatex form a gasket sealant part 2B or 2A, don`t remember which, I have both.
I did not want any leaks from any where. I know it is said many times to place the gaskets of these MB engines dry for what ever reason.

In post#9 above I mentioned I was having a leak in the by-pass hose, and tightening it didn`t seem to help. even repositioned the clamps etc...
This is with a new MB hose. I guess it finally stopped leaking from some of the dried coolant around the edge. wasn`t a big leak, just seeped and ran down to make a mess, and would be wet first thing in the morning, and would stop after the eng. warmed up.

Mt indy (Henry) said I could remove it, clean it up and apply a thin layer of Permatex sealant between the hose and the pipe.

AS a side note: I have the engine out because the rear main is leaking and making a mess. hauled the eng. to him in the back of the PU so he could see what was actualy leaking. I had a leak in the front making a small mess from the vacuum pump. there are 3 screws that screw into the oil galleries and it was leaking around the threads. he said to clean up the bolts and use the Permatex on the threads will fix that.
Second reason eng. is out. >4 SPEED INSTALL< YEAH!!!!


Ok, back on topic.

Charlie

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there were three HP ratings on the OM616...

1) Not much power
2) Even less power
3) Not nearly enough power!! 240D w/auto

Anyone that thinks a 240D is slow drives too fast.

80 240D Naturally Exasperated, 4-Spd 388k DD 150mph spedo 3:58 Diff

We are advised to NOT judge ALL Muslims by the actions of a few lunatics, but we are encouraged to judge ALL gun owners by the actions of a few lunatics. Funny how that works