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  #1  
Old 09-24-2007, 02:38 PM
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Replaced shocks this weekend.. couple of questions

Car - 82 240D w123

So this was the first time I have ever had to change out shock absorbers on a car. Much easier than expected.

However, when trying to attach the top (behind the rear seat), the nut would only go so far down before it would not go on any more. Thought that must be how it was supposed to be, put in the seat, and enjoyed the comfort of the new shocks (blisten comfort rides)

I came into work, and one of the guys here said the nut should go down, and it is hard to get it to twist down because the piston moves as you turn. So basically I had two questions -

I dont have a weekend for a few weeks, is it ok to leave it as is (nuts loose on the top attachment of the absorber) ?

Second, how do I get it to tighten down with standard tools?

Thanks!

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  #2  
Old 09-24-2007, 02:46 PM
winmutt's Avatar
85 300D 4spd+tow+h4
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1981_300sd View Post
Car - 82 240D w123

So this was the first time I have ever had to change out shock absorbers on a car. Much easier than expected.

However, when trying to attach the top (behind the rear seat), the nut would only go so far down before it would not go on any more. Thought that must be how it was supposed to be, put in the seat, and enjoyed the comfort of the new shocks (blisten comfort rides)

I came into work, and one of the guys here said the nut should go down, and it is hard to get it to twist down because the piston moves as you turn. So basically I had two questions -

I dont have a weekend for a few weeks, is it ok to leave it as is (nuts loose on the top attachment of the absorber) ?

Second, how do I get it to tighten down with standard tools?

Thanks!
Im assuming the top nut was a nylon nut and it would just turn the rod? I use a crecsent wrench and a pair of vise grips. Please tell me you didnt rotate the rod? Use the vise grips to keep the rod from moving. I think a 6mm wrench will do the same. Otherwise you missed a few bushings...
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Old 09-24-2007, 02:47 PM
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I take it the lower portion is correctly installed. I would attempt to work on the top nuts pretty soon. IIRC, you will need to hold the shock shaft (say that five times, fast!) at the flat part of the shaft so as not to rotate while you tighten down the nut. On the ones I replaced, it did turn a little, no harm. Said shocks were Bilsteins. Hope this helps.
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  #4  
Old 09-24-2007, 03:42 PM
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Ya I had my socket on there and kept turning and turning and turning, nylon nut never went down. So could I have done any damage to the shocks?

Ill have to make time to remove those damn seats again now lol.

Thanks for the help.
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  #5  
Old 09-24-2007, 07:42 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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It is not good to twist the shaft but probably you will be ok.

Tom W
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..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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Old 09-24-2007, 09:11 PM
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I was paranoid about not letting the shaft turn - but why is it recommended not to allow the shaft to turn? Just curious.

You should use an open end or adjustable wrench (or ratcheting box if you have them) while holding the shaft at the flats - 6,7 or 8mm - something like that...
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  #7  
Old 09-24-2007, 11:08 PM
t walgamuth's Avatar
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I don't know. I suspect it might damage the seals? or allow some metal parts to score the inside of the cyliner?

They are designed to move up and down not rotate.

Don't worry too much. We all have turned them plenty of times. Personally I have never had any problems as a result of it, but I try to avoid it more now that I know it is bad for them.

Tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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