Hello - I have searched most of the threads concerning this. It is actually quite simple and have adjusted the proper screws however the steering does not seem to be getting much tighter - still very loose.

W123 1983 300D Turbo

Concerning the steering and suspension I have replaced:
front upper control arms and bushings
front lower ball joints
drivers side and passenger side tierods

note: I have not had the alignment done yet (Wednesday is my appointment), will this tighten my steering - am I wasting time adjusting the box - should I wait until aligned?

I was able to turn the 6mm screw all the way ccw until it seemed to be stuck - then loosened it a half turn cw - then tightened the 19mm lock nut while holding 6mm in place.

is there something else I am missing or should or could be doing? another adjustment somewhere else. Do I need to replace my Steering Box and how would I tell. It does not seem to be leaking.

Thanks for your responses - I would like my steering tight and straight!

It very well could be the steering box is worn out. Many are at this point and adjusting won't compensate for it. My dad's '83 has a rebuilt box in it and the difference/tightness is amazing.

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Its possible there is a lot of slop in one of the tie rods or something that is affecting your steering. One check to perform is to watch the Pittman arm, that comes off the steering box to the actual linkage below, while turning the steering wheel, engine off, back and forth lightly. You have to put yourself in the right place to do both, its better off done without a helper. Watch the arm, turn the steering wheel and note that amount of rotation back and forth on the steering wheel before the arm moves, it should be just a few degrees really, not a lot. 10 degrees is way too much. I've heard someone say something like less then 2 inches rotation but its hard to measure. If you have access to a known good car you will feel the difference (you might want to find someone who will let you "feel their steering wheel, hah!)

This is a fairly common problem on hi-milers as there are lots of old steering boxes that have been worn internally and no amount of adjustment will keep them "tight".
Not adjusting them regularly over the life of the car is one reason for increased wear. Once the internal gear is worn there is no alternative but to replace or repair the box (heavy job uggghh!)
I have had to replace two steering boxes that I didn't like, as rework. I sent one back under warranty because it was rebuilt improperly and had too much internal friction. The car should want to return towards center if you release the wheel after cornering. If the car tends to stay into the turn (even on a flat surface) its got problems and may either be overadjusted (too far CCW) or has internal friction or the front alignment is "off".
The best solution and actually a cheaper one has been to find a donor part, off a hopefully low mileage car (NOT easy these days!)
I'd say have the alignment done first then see how it drives. You shouldn't have to do the alignment over again if you do have to change the steering box.

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'95 E320 Wagon my favorite road car. '99 E300D wolf in sheeps body, '87 300D Sportline suspension, '79 300TD w/ 617.952 engine at 367,750 and counting!

alright - seems like I will have to wait until it is aligned - will try to check the pitman arm (how would I do this without a helper) while turning the wheel and engine off.

hopefully I will not need a new, used or refirbed one - I heard they weren't inexpensive and from the sound of it not so easy to take out and reinstall.

Thanks - > I will report back after the alignment - >

it's very simple to see if the box needs adjusting, provided there is no play in the steering linkage ~~~ set the wheels to straight ahead then grab the steering wheel to check if it has any free play in it, wiggle it back and forth till resistance is felt on each side ~~~ you want to end up with about a half inch to an inch of free play

Did you turn the screw in or out? It should be turned out to tighten up the steering box.

ccw is the correct direction.

I have found that these boxes will still adjust pretty well with a quarter of a million miles on them.

Tom W

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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.

Did you check the alignment or check the pitman arm yet?
With the engine off, you can turn the steering column shaft by hand where it goes into the steering box and then see how much play is in the box by watching the pitman arm.
Also, since you have recently replaced steering components, If the amount of toe-in is way off, it can feel like there is alot of "play" in the steering. If you have not had the alignment yet, you can do a quick and dirty toe-in check with a tape measure, by comparing the dimensions between the inside edge of the center tread rib of each front tire. Measure across in front and behind the front tires, then compare the two dimensions. the dimension across the front should be slightly less than the dimension behind- approx. 1/16" to 1/8" difference. If the difference is more than that, it could be the excessive play culprit.

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'83 300D Turrrbo 295K miles