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#1
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Just replaced my air cleaner bracket. Id like to not do it in the future :-)
My engine mounts, shocks and shock mounts are all new - and the air cleaner housing still clangs a little bit at idle! I want to stop this dead in its tracks. I have seen two methods proposed 1.) Mercedesource method of using a hose mounted somehow to the valve cover to limit vibrations. Anyone have a pic of this solution? I wish I could just buy the manual from the website, I have all of the parts already and ont need them. 2.) The 'old rubber shock donut' method: "The air filter mount problem has existed long enough. This is the repair..... Looking at the air cleaner, notice the small space between the air cleaner and the valve cover. There is a flat area on the air cleaner housing near the valve cover. The repair requires an old rubber shock absorber mount, a 6 mm bolt (10 mm hex) about 10 to 12 mm long, flat washers and a nut. Make a mark on the forward area of the flat side of the air cleaner housing (toward the valve cover). Remove the air cleaner housing and drill a 6 mm hole at the spot you marked. Put the bolt in the hole from the inside using the washers and nut. Now you have a bolt sticking out of the air cleaner housing... Take an old rubber doughnut from a shock absorber and stick it over the protruding bolt/nut. Be sure the bolt does not stick out of the rubber. Reinstall the housing and viola the air cleaner housing is unable to generate enough momentum to break the bracket. I've been doing this for about 8 years....never had a second air cleaner bracket break. The idea is to limit the movement of the housing. Even when they were new the brackets were prone to failure. Regards, Randy D." Any comments on either? I want to try to fix this tonight before stressing my bracket any more. Thanks, dd
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#2
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The ************** deal is to drill a hole in the air cleaner housing, just as you described, and a hole in a length of radiator hose, bolt to housing in a manner to rest against the cam cover.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#3
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Quote:
What's the prescribed hose size for the mod? Looks like 1 inch, but I cant tell.
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------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#4
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I fabricated my own bracket.
First one I made from sheet metal was not strong enough and broke like the original. Second bracket was made from 1/8 in. angle iron and it has survived for 10+ years and 100,000+ miles. I don't have any problem with the air cleaner vibrating against anything but I have to replace the rubber dampers once in a while. P E H |
#5
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Here's the fix for the bracket.
http://mbca.cartama.net/showpost.php?p=89120&postcount=3
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'81 MB 300SD, '82 MB 300D Turbo (sold/RIP), '04 Lincoln Town Car Ultimate Sooner or later every car falls apart, ours does it later! -German Narrator in a MB Promotion Film about the then brand new W123. |
#6
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I would think maybe any large hose, one inch sounds too small, but you may be able to wedge something between in there to measure the size before you mount. Bergsma also mentions to use thread locker on the bolt.
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83 SD 84 CD |
#7
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Quote:
Makes me wonder if I have done something else wrong. What holes do you mount the air cleaner mounts to on the bracket itself? There are two choices for each mount. Does anyone remember off the top of their head? I just followed the pattern that was in there and it fits without incident, but i dont know if its the right way. Well, Ill buy some hose and be ready to mess with it tonight until I get something that works well. Mike
__________________
------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#8
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Quote:
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Houston, Texas 1984 300CD 235K miles, Elvira, one owner 1987 300TD 180K miles 1974 TR6 78K miles Sarah Jane, one owner OBK #27 |
#9
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other ideas
I agree, replacing the bracket is a PITA (and not very cheap!). In the quest for reduced top end vibration try:
New motor mounts Valve Adjustment New rubber mounts and shields on the air cleaner bracket A piece of hose between the air cleaner housing and the valve cover Adjusting the IP rack damper bolt (smoother idle) That's all I can think of at the moment.....
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~shell As of 2/2010: 2001 CLK55 0o\=*=/o0 13.6 @ 106mph 10K mi 1984 300SD 260K mi and going and going... 97 S600 46K miles 1991 Sentra SE-R (extremely dorked with) www.se-r.net |
#10
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What mount point of the two on the bracket do folks use? The front one, or the back one?
Im on the back right now, Ill try the front to see if its any better...
__________________
------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
#11
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I just replaced motor mounts again (Coteco's do not last), and the tranny mount. I found a ait cleaner damper broken, and I had none on hand. I used a 1.5 in long 10 mm head sized bolt that matched the thread size of the damper. I threaded it in so to would make a stud like the other dampers. I used two old engine shock rubber pieces I found as a cushion between the air cleaner and the bracket, and then bolted the air cleaner down. I figured this would work so I can drive the car while I wait for replacement parts. Air cleaner rattle is gone now.
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RRGrassi 70's Southern Pacific #5608 Fairmont A-4 MOW car 13 VW JSW 2.0 TDI 193K, Tuned with DPF and EGR Delete. 99 W210 E300 Turbo Diesel, chipped, DPF/Converter Delete. Still needs EGR Delete, 232K 90 Dodge D250 5.9 Cummins/5 speed. 400K Gone and still missed...1982 w123 300D, 1991 w124 300D |
#12
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why does it have to be flexible? I would think it could be solidly attached to prevent ANY vibration. the air cleaner is attached to the motor, so it should all move together... I am going to look into a solid bracket that keeps it all from moving relative to the motor itself.
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John HAUL AWAY, OR CRUSHED CARS!!! HELP ME keep the cars out of the crusher! A/C Thread "as I ride with my a/c on... I have fond memories of sweaty oily saturdays and spewing R12 into the air. THANKS for all you do! My drivers: 1987 190D 2.5Turbo 1987 560SL convertible 1987 190D 2.5-5SPEED!!! ![]() 1987 300TD 2005 Dodge Sprinter 2500 158"WB 1994GMC 2500 6.5Turbo truck... I had to put the ladder somewhere! |
#13
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If you do this, the oil drain tube at the bottom will not align.
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http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7271/7...144c3fc1dc.jpg |
#14
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DieselDan,
I use the back holes. When in the front holes it was very difficult to install the battery cooler. P E H |
#15
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After some experimentation, the forward set of holes is where the air cleaner wants to live. The back set of holes doesnt work at all.
I implemented the shock bushing solution described earlier in this thread. It looks great and fits perfectly. I like this much better than using a hose because there is no give really in the shock bushing, whereas the rubber hose can stick flex a lot and allow vibration. Ill report back after driving a while and post some pics. dd
__________________
------------------------------- '85 300D, 'Lance',250k, ... winter beater (100k on franken-Frybrid 3 Valve Kit) '82 300D, 'Tex', 228k body / 170k engine ... summer car '83 300TD Cali Wagon 210k, wife's car |
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